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Unread 01-15-2014, 06:51 PM   #1
The_Goob
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Rot under perch

So I recently acquired an 8.8 to throw in the YJ. hacked the perches off and there were huge flakes of rust underneath them.
after chipping it away and starting to clean the tubes I notice that there is noticable divots where those chunks of rust were. its not "through" but im wondering if this is going to affect my SUA perches(leaf), since it would seem they will be needing welded in that area. Any suggestions? Im no fabricator, only have a HF90 amp buzzbox to work with.
It is pretty much the width of the perch thats "missing"

pics a few posts below

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Unread 01-16-2014, 06:13 AM   #2
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Do you have actual pics? Couldn't see much with the dark video.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 07:54 AM   #3
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I will snap some after I get home and get them up. YouTube always darkens my videos

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Unread 01-16-2014, 12:49 PM   #4
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Its hard to see but if you follow the profile of the tube it indents

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1389901631931.jpg   1389901638165.jpg   1389901644555.jpg   1389901661156.jpg  
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Unread 01-16-2014, 12:53 PM   #5
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I have the ruffstuff perches that have the little nubs to grind off. havent measured out the new location yet but I believe only 1 side of the perch will sit in the indent. I might just get creative and grind the nubs only halfway off on that side and let the weld fill in the difference. Unless someone has other ideas.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 05:41 PM   #6
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First thing you need to do is lay out your work. You might have no issue at all with fitting new perches. If the new perches don't sit snug and cradle your axle don't do any more grinding. I think I would check axle tube with steel square or straight edge to see how much variance you have between the two parts. All ways easier to build up the low spot in your axle than to grind to much from perch. Remember perch is at design dimension, you problem is in the axle. Identify location of perch on axle, if it won't sit squarely build up the tube with weld-slowly don't go wild blasting it with tons of heat all at once. Grind down check with straight edge repeat until you get a good fit. Remember any time you have a wide span to fill with weld you always run the risk of drawing one part or both away from its intended location. It is super hard to clamp something that does not fit properly to even get solid tacks around it to hold it in place. That's what I would do to mine, but to each his own.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 06:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for the suggestion. I was never going to grind the whole tube down I wanted to either build it back up, or get the perch square by leaving the grindable nubs partially in there.
Here is the nubs, they have to come off but if I leave the low side nubs partially on to make up the difference. (at least the center one) Its a project for another day anyway, today was TC teardown day :P
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Unread 01-16-2014, 07:04 PM   #8
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I see now, you were talking about pitting on the axle tube. I just mocked mine up, pretty much installed it using the u-bolts and leafs to hold it in position under the jeep... then tacked it then welded my perches in overhead with the axle in position. The gap from the pitting won't hurt anything so long as you build the fillet weld to compensate for it. I'd still wonder how much of your axle tube wall thickness was lost to the pitting that could result in it being weaker. If you go building it up, filling in the pits with weld metal, there's alot of distortion you can get from the heat input so take your pick... have it a little weaker from loss of metal or crooked, I left mine alone.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 07:20 PM   #9
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we have these huge ironer shafts at work that wear through on the ends sometimes (bad bearing etc) and they just take them to a machine shop and get it filled in and smoothed out. but its super pricey.
I didnt think about when actually bolting it on to set angle, the leafs will do their best to put the perch where it needs to be and just expose the gap. Thanks
hopefully sometime in the next 2 weeks I will get this other stuff done and get going on tearing the old dana turdy-5 out and give it a go.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 09:21 AM   #10
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I cant see the pictures very well but I wouldnt worry about it..In the past Ive used my wire feed and filled in the pitting and ground the area smooth. IMHO some pitting isnt going to affect the integrity of the housing
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Unread 01-17-2014, 12:29 PM   #11
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Just use a soft wire wheel on a grinder and clean the pitted area well..then weld the perch on straight...

DO NOT try welding in the pitted area and grinding smooth...you will have a high chance of warping the axle tube and create bearing problems down the road because the tube is warped and the axle shaft will be off center to the end bearing...
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Unread 01-17-2014, 03:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
Just use a soft wire wheel on a grinder and clean the pitted area well..then weld the perch on straight...

DO NOT try welding in the pitted area and grinding smooth...you will have a high chance of warping the axle tube and create bearing problems down the road because the tube is warped and the axle shaft will be off center to the end bearing...
Warp a housing with a 110v wirefeed and a grinder? to each their own but if that was the case wouldnt cutting off perches and welding new on do the same or worse?
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Unread 01-17-2014, 03:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by napaguy View Post

Warp a housing with a 110v wirefeed and a grinder? to each their own but if that was the case wouldnt cutting off perches and welding new on do the same or worse?
No. Laying successive beads.. aka buttering.. to build up the thickness is entirely different than cutting something off and making 4 separate welds putting something back on.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 03:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by napaguy View Post
Warp a housing with a 110v wirefeed and a grinder? to each their own but if that was the case wouldnt cutting off perches and welding new on do the same or worse?
its not a "housing"..housings are very thick and cast steel...this is an axle tube..much thinner than a housing..and very easly warped with access heat..

no matter if its a 220v or 110v..they both create in access of 2700 degrees to form a metal puddle even at the minimum to create a weld.......
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Unread 01-17-2014, 04:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
its not a "housing"..housings are very thick and cast steel...this is an axle tube..much thinner than a housing..and very easly warped with access heat..

no matter if its a 220v or 110v..they both create in access of 2700 degrees to form a metal puddle even at the minimum to create a weld.......
hmmm well you are a steel worker and a moderator so must be fact
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