Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along - Page 55 - JeepForum.com

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #811 of 2181 Old 11-12-2009, 04:12 PM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
Next we have a mockup with the spindle installed.

Then we have the handle I made for the latch system. I am using a TJ tailgate latch to hold the carrier closed, this requires a bit of modification to the unit.

In the third and 4th pics you can see the crossmember for the carrier welded on. Also on the last pic if you look in front of the bumper you can see the latch assembly all tacked together and ready to be installed to the x-member.

Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0559.JPG   IMG_0562.JPG   IMG_0563.JPG   IMG_0564.JPG   IMG_0565.JPG  


Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #812 of 2181 Old 11-12-2009, 04:15 PM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
Here is where I have a question. I welded the crossmember onto the spindle. I took extra care to make sure I had it on there all kinds of straight. That being said, when I reinstalled after cooling the 1.5" gap I was going for is 1.5 at the spindle, but only 1.25 at the far end, does this tube really bow that much over such a short distance? When I add triangulation will that restore the 1.5" gap all the way down? I hope so.

Also, should I tack weld the latch to the bottom of the crossmember, or should I find some way to bolt i on there?

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #813 of 2181 Old 11-12-2009, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,285
It's not uncommon for the arm to warp during welding. It's going to change again when you do the "A" Frame parts.

I normally weld the entire "A" Frame and swingarm together prior to welding it to the spindle tube. I then drop the spindle/tube into its hole and mock the arm up to it. I tack the arm in several places and weld along the top edge. After that cools, I reach inside the open bumper end, and tack the spindle into place on the inside of the bumper. I then remove the swingarm assembly and finish welding the spindle into place in the bumper. I then weld the rest of the pivot tube/swingarm joint.

I've been doing that routine for a few years and normally wind up with a tolerance of about 1/8" (up/down) at the latch end of the swingarm.. in relation to the bumper. I then use a 3/16" or 1/4" tongue under the latch end of the bumper.. depending on the gap.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BESRK is offline  
post #814 of 2181 Old 11-12-2009, 04:58 PM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
That makes sense. I should have done it that was from the beginning. I guess for me I didn't have all the dimensions known beforehand, so I have been making one piece at a time. Some forethought would have saved me a bit of a headache in this.

I think that if I get it clamped in place really well before attaching the A frame portion, I might be able to get back at least a small portion of my 1/4" lost.

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #815 of 2181 Old 11-13-2009, 12:05 AM
poppatello
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: New Castle, DE
Posts: 837
What size D rings do I need? I can only find 1/2" in stores and that is way to small. I'm thinking 1"... Also, I need to post pictures of this wonderful rear bumper tire carrier combo. Well worth every penny and wait. I have one finishing touch before I post up... Thanks Eddie!

In a world full of copy cats, be an original...

Paved Roads
A Fine Example of Needless Government Spending
Quote:
Originally Posted by berserker View Post

Sometimes it a good idea to pull a vacuum hose before the wife rides in it--you can tell her you need a new ____ and once you get your new ____ you can reconnect the hose. :)


84 Cj 7 w/ 4-Banger, 4.5" BDS lift, 1/2 Trans Drop, Twin Stick, 32" Tire, Front Aussie Locker, No Sound System Yet, No Armor, Warn 8274 Not Installed, Webber Carb Upgrade, Luckycheese Ing. Upgrade...
poppatello is offline  
post #816 of 2181 Old 11-13-2009, 09:22 AM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppatello View Post
What size D rings do I need? I can only find 1/2" in stores and that is way to small. I'm thinking 1"... Also, I need to post pictures of this wonderful rear bumper tire carrier combo. Well worth every penny and wait. I have one finishing touch before I post up... Thanks Eddie!

You can find a good set a a number of retailers online. AtoZ fabrication has them, and offers a 10% discount to all JF members. I have always had good luck with Northridge4x4 too, good prices great customer service.

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #817 of 2181 Old 11-13-2009, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,285
It's a 3/4" Shackle with a 7/8" diameter screw pin. Make sure it's stamped with the "Safe Working Load" (SWL) or "Working Load Limit" (WLL). Northern has 3/4" shackles with a 6.5ton rating for about $13-$14 or so..

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BESRK is offline  
post #818 of 2181 Old 11-13-2009, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tradesman300 View Post

I think that if I get it clamped in place really well before attaching the A frame portion, I might be able to get back at least a small portion of my 1/4" lost.
Normally, welding the "A" frame in place, will pull up on both ends a bit as the welds cool. If you're trying to raise the latch end 1/4", I'd just leave the arm free and weld the "A" frame tubes in place.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BESRK is offline  
post #819 of 2181 Old 11-16-2009, 09:29 AM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Normally, welding the "A" frame in place, will pull up on both ends a bit as the welds cool. If you're trying to raise the latch end 1/4", I'd just leave the arm free and weld the "A" frame tubes in place.
This is what I ended up doing this weekend, I only gained about 1/8" back, but it was enough.

And I officially do not recommend trying to use a tailgate latch. It works great once you get it, but there is very very little tolerance. I had to have it within less than 1/16" off center left and right. And for me, that is a tight tolerance to have to be within. I am in the 1/8" crowd. So I had to tack and re-tack the latch on about 5 times to get it close enough.

I think my main problem is I do not know the methodologies needed to make the proper measurements for things like that.

Length, height, width, stuff like that is easy, but with a carpenters square it is pretty tough to measure out relative centers on two different pieces one hanging an inch or so above in air. Eyeballing is only so good. Once you get down to a certain precision it becomes pretty hard to just guess and tack.

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #820 of 2181 Old 11-16-2009, 11:50 AM
97TJGUZZY
Registered User
 
97TJGUZZY's Avatar
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Columbia
Posts: 1,794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tradesman300 View Post
This is what I ended up doing this weekend, I only gained about 1/8" back, but it was enough.

And I officially do not recommend trying to use a tailgate latch. It works great once you get it, but there is very very little tolerance. I had to have it within less than 1/16" off center left and right. And for me, that is a tight tolerance to have to be within. I am in the 1/8" crowd. So I had to tack and re-tack the latch on about 5 times to get it close enough.

I think my main problem is I do not know the methodologies needed to make the proper measurements for things like that.

Length, height, width, stuff like that is easy, but with a carpenters square it is pretty tough to measure out relative centers on two different pieces one hanging an inch or so above in air. Eyeballing is only so good. Once you get down to a certain precision it becomes pretty hard to just guess and tack.
how do you like the latch, once you got it working?

For info on outdoor adventures in South Carolina check out
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
97TJGUZZY is offline  
post #821 of 2181 Old 11-16-2009, 12:08 PM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
It is really slick. It clicks right into place. It was just a bit of a headache to get in there. I am going to add a rubber bumper to the tub and a poly space between the bumper and swingarm to help absorb a lot of the vibrations and whatnot. That way it has a positive latch more like the tailgate.

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #822 of 2181 Old 11-17-2009, 02:36 PM
Tradesman300
Registered User
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 272
Does anyone know the thread of the rear lower bolts that the stock bumper uses on the bottom of the frame? I need to go get some grade 8 bolts, and I need to know the thread pattern first beforehand.

Own a Jeep
Tradesman300 is offline  
post #823 of 2181 Old 11-24-2009, 04:49 PM
green89yj
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,339
I think I'm definitely going to be stealing some of this for mine. Have most people been replacing the rear crossmember or what?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Herc.Custom Green paint. RC 4". 5 Goodyear 33X12.5 MT/R w/Kev. Cragar V5's. Corbeau Moab seats. Optima Yellow.XRC8 Comp Winch. XJ 4.0/AX15
WTT: 4" springs for 6"
WTS: 4.2 parts. Fuel lines, pump, block, head, accessories, just ask
green89yj is offline  
post #824 of 2181 Old 11-24-2009, 08:58 PM
LuckRider
Web Wheeler
 
LuckRider's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 9,314
I bought mine from BESRK, and it Mounts to the rear crossmember. If you want to replace it, I would drill all of the holes for the bumper in it, and weld the nuts to the rear crossmember to make it easier to mount. Good luck with your project.

Thanks to SuperWade2 For the 1 Year Upgrade!
Support Our Troops!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JFI Member #7:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
: Mostly Stock 2005 I6 Patriot Blue TJ:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BESRK Rear Bumper, Hella 500s

Do the Jeep Wave :D 0|||||||0 Take 95% of what I say as a joke/sarcasm!-Thomas
LuckRider is offline  
post #825 of 2181 Old 11-24-2009, 10:19 PM
green89yj
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,339
Thanks. I've just been lurkin around takin notes. Hopefully it works.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Herc.Custom Green paint. RC 4". 5 Goodyear 33X12.5 MT/R w/Kev. Cragar V5's. Corbeau Moab seats. Optima Yellow.XRC8 Comp Winch. XJ 4.0/AX15
WTT: 4" springs for 6"
WTS: 4.2 parts. Fuel lines, pump, block, head, accessories, just ask
green89yj is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
Swingout tire carrier question........... Flingit1200s Fabrication Shop 5 11-22-2009 09:41 AM
Swingout Tire Carrier / Rocker Guards ckhanna71 Fabrication Shop 14 09-15-2009 12:14 AM
rear bumper w/swingout rckjeep Fabrication Shop 1 02-11-2007 10:13 AM
building rear bumper with tire carrier... need suggestions for 40" tire Big-n-Broke-YJ Fabrication Shop 10 10-04-2006 04:34 PM
Tube Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Lime Jeep Fabrication Shop 12 05-15-2006 12:11 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome