[Tradesman300]

Next we have a mockup with the spindle installed.

Then we have the handle I made for the latch system. I am using a TJ tailgate latch to hold the carrier closed, this requires a bit of modification to the unit.

In the third and 4th pics you can see the crossmember for the carrier welded on. Also on the last pic if you look in front of the bumper you can see the latch assembly all tacked together and ready to be installed to the x-member.

[Tradesman300]

Here is where I have a question. I welded the crossmember onto the spindle. I took extra care to make sure I had it on there all kinds of straight. That being said, when I reinstalled after cooling the 1.5" gap I was going for is 1.5 at the spindle, but only 1.25 at the far end, does this tube really bow that much over such a short distance? When I add triangulation will that restore the 1.5" gap all the way down? I hope so.

Also, should I tack weld the latch to the bottom of the crossmember, or should I find some way to bolt i on there?

[BESRK]

It's not uncommon for the arm to warp during welding. It's going to change again when you do the "A" Frame parts.

I normally weld the entire "A" Frame and swingarm together prior to welding it to the spindle tube. I then drop the spindle/tube into its hole and mock the arm up to it. I tack the arm in several places and weld along the top edge. After that cools, I reach inside the open bumper end, and tack the spindle into place on the inside of the bumper. I then remove the swingarm assembly and finish welding the spindle into place in the bumper. I then weld the rest of the pivot tube/swingarm joint.

I've been doing that routine for a few years and normally wind up with a tolerance of about 1/8" (up/down) at the latch end of the swingarm.. in relation to the bumper. I then use a 3/16" or 1/4" tongue under the latch end of the bumper.. depending on the gap.

[Tradesman300]

That makes sense. I should have done it that was from the beginning. I guess for me I didn't have all the dimensions known beforehand, so I have been making one piece at a time. Some forethought would have saved me a bit of a headache in this.

I think that if I get it clamped in place really well before attaching the A frame portion, I might be able to get back at least a small portion of my 1/4" lost.

[poppatello]

What size D rings do I need? I can only find 1/2" in stores and that is way to small. I'm thinking 1"... Also, I need to post pictures of this wonderful rear bumper tire carrier combo. Well worth every penny and wait. I have one finishing touch before I post up... Thanks Eddie!

[Tradesman300]

Originally Posted by poppatello

What size D rings do I need? I can only find 1/2" in stores and that is way to small. I'm thinking 1"... Also, I need to post pictures of this wonderful rear bumper tire carrier combo. Well worth every penny and wait. I have one finishing touch before I post up... Thanks Eddie!

You can find a good set a a number of retailers online. AtoZ fabrication has them, and offers a 10% discount to all JF members. I have always had good luck with Northridge4x4 too, good prices great customer service.

[BESRK]

It's a 3/4" Shackle with a 7/8" diameter screw pin. Make sure it's stamped with the "Safe Working Load" (SWL) or "Working Load Limit" (WLL). Northern has 3/4" shackles with a 6.5ton rating for about $13-$14 or so..

[BESRK]

Originally Posted by Tradesman300

I think that if I get it clamped in place really well before attaching the A frame portion, I might be able to get back at least a small portion of my 1/4" lost.

Normally, welding the "A" frame in place, will pull up on both ends a bit as the welds cool. If you're trying to raise the latch end 1/4", I'd just leave the arm free and weld the "A" frame tubes in place.

[Tradesman300]

Originally Posted by BESRK

Normally, welding the "A" frame in place, will pull up on both ends a bit as the welds cool. If you're trying to raise the latch end 1/4", I'd just leave the arm free and weld the "A" frame tubes in place.

This is what I ended up doing this weekend, I only gained about 1/8" back, but it was enough.

And I officially do not recommend trying to use a tailgate latch. It works great once you get it, but there is very very little tolerance. I had to have it within less than 1/16" off center left and right. And for me, that is a tight tolerance to have to be within. I am in the 1/8" crowd. So I had to tack and re-tack the latch on about 5 times to get it close enough.

I think my main problem is I do not know the methodologies needed to make the proper measurements for things like that.

Length, height, width, stuff like that is easy, but with a carpenters square it is pretty tough to measure out relative centers on two different pieces one hanging an inch or so above in air. Eyeballing is only so good. Once you get down to a certain precision it becomes pretty hard to just guess and tack.

[97TJGUZZY]

Originally Posted by Tradesman300

This is what I ended up doing this weekend, I only gained about 1/8" back, but it was enough.

And I officially do not recommend trying to use a tailgate latch. It works great once you get it, but there is very very little tolerance. I had to have it within less than 1/16" off center left and right. And for me, that is a tight tolerance to have to be within. I am in the 1/8" crowd. So I had to tack and re-tack the latch on about 5 times to get it close enough.

I think my main problem is I do not know the methodologies needed to make the proper measurements for things like that.

Length, height, width, stuff like that is easy, but with a carpenters square it is pretty tough to measure out relative centers on two different pieces one hanging an inch or so above in air. Eyeballing is only so good. Once you get down to a certain precision it becomes pretty hard to just guess and tack.

how do you like the latch, once you got it working?

[Tradesman300]

It is really slick. It clicks right into place. It was just a bit of a headache to get in there. I am going to add a rubber bumper to the tub and a poly space between the bumper and swingarm to help absorb a lot of the vibrations and whatnot. That way it has a positive latch more like the tailgate.

[Tradesman300]

Does anyone know the thread of the rear lower bolts that the stock bumper uses on the bottom of the frame? I need to go get some grade 8 bolts, and I need to know the thread pattern first beforehand.

[green89yj]

I think I'm definitely going to be stealing some of this for mine. Have most people been replacing the rear crossmember or what?

[LuckRider]

I bought mine from BESRK, and it Mounts to the rear crossmember. If you want to replace it, I would drill all of the holes for the bumper in it, and weld the nuts to the rear crossmember to make it easier to mount. Good luck with your project.

[green89yj]

Thanks. I've just been lurkin around takin notes. Hopefully it works.