Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along - Page 149 - JeepForum.com
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post #2221 of 2230 Old 05-22-2017, 06:32 PM
esad_b
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Originally Posted by dwilliams35 View Post
They do make the destacos with safety latches....
Yah I realized that after I had posted and did some googling. Nice price tag on these destaco latches!

Did some sourcing around online (today was a holiday, Canada) and I came across these from the local Princess Auto (Harbour Freight for Canadians lol).

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...archLocations=

Since I really don't want to fork over the money to have destaco latch shipped over I can prob make that one have a safety pin go through to prevent the toggle from flipping open. I also thought to have a backup latch on top of that that would also hold the bumper in its spot if it were to fail.

The secondary one would be something like this,

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ly/A-p8650913e

Basically this would be mounted to the end of the arm and the pin would pop inside the bottom bumper part as the arm closes in.

What you guys think of this combination?



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post #2222 of 2230 Old 05-22-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by esad_b View Post
Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.
Never

Look at your "2" on your license plate. Put a rest under that for the swing to sit on between it and the bumper. No more up and down. Tighten the dog poo on that spindle bearing while your at it. The destaco latch won't break or come loose on it's own. It can really clamp the swing to the rest you need to attach to the bumper. From the center of the spindle to the latch end is at least 3' of leverage with at least 100 lbs on the fulcrum. Take that to zero and your bouncing will be gone. .

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2223 of 2230 Old 05-22-2017, 08:16 PM
esad_b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by esad_b View Post
Ya the destaco latch looks nice but I also read a few times where it actually let loose.
Never

Look at your "2" on your license plate. Put a rest under that for the swing to sit on between it and the bumper. No more up and down. Tighten the dog poo on that spindle bearing while your at it. The destaco latch won't break or come loose on it's own. It can really clamp the swing to the rest you need to attach to the bumper. From the center of the spindle to the latch end is at least 3' of leverage with at least 100 lbs on the fulcrum. Take that to zero and your bouncing will be gone. .
Thanks Bigbob. Yah as I'm working on it I was already adding a "rest" below the arm and the bumper so that it takes all the slack out of it. It's not shown in the picture as I wasn't quite there yet

The plan is to have the arm fully seat on the far side (license plate) when it's complete at the same time have a backstop. Going to use some pucks as rubber stoppers between the bumper and tailgate.

I found a latch online that seems more fair priced online compared to the one I posted. Slight modification to add a safety pin to it I should be good. Thinking about it that whole t-handle will become annoying after a while.

https://www.amazon.ca/POWERTEC-20307.../dp/B00IMPLHRK
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post #2224 of 2230 Old 06-20-2017, 09:21 PM
Mattg1022
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Excellent thread. Love the insight here
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post #2225 of 2230 Old 06-21-2017, 04:47 AM
rikkards
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esad_b View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwilliams35 View Post
They do make the destacos with safety latches....
Yah I realized that after I had posted and did some googling. Nice price tag on these destaco latches!

Did some sourcing around online (today was a holiday, Canada) and I came across these from the local Princess Auto (Harbour Freight for Canadians lol).

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...archLocations=

Since I really don't want to fork over the money to have destaco latch shipped over I can prob make that one have a safety pin go through to prevent the toggle from flipping open. I also thought to have a backup latch on top of that that would also hold the bumper in its spot if it were to fail.

The secondary one would be something like this,

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...ly/A-p8650913e

Basically this would be mounted to the end of the arm and the pin would pop inside the bottom bumper part as the arm closes in.

What you guys think of this combination?
they will rust out in a year. I tried to go cheap the first time with my latch and ended up sucking it up and getting a stainless steel destaco
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post #2226 of 2230 Old 06-22-2017, 08:02 AM
esad_b
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Well it's finally finished.. glad its over and I can focus on other projects lol. I ended getting a different latch not the one I linked above.

Also added a failsafe screw style 1/2" bolt as well in case it gives.



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post #2227 of 2230 Old 06-22-2017, 10:31 AM
Bigbob
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Looks great. That rest is key. You figure the leverage from the pivot to center of tire and hitting pot holes can really put a strain on the pivot.


2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #2228 of 2230 Old 06-22-2017, 10:45 AM
esad_b
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Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Looks great. That rest is key. You figure the leverage from the pivot to center of tire and hitting pot holes can really put a strain on the pivot.
Yah that's what I wanted to make sure I had. Right now when you close the tire it ever so slightly rubs on the rest pad and sits on it. This is for a 30" tire, down the road when the 33s come it will prob require a slight lift to get it on there due to the extra weight and it shall be even better!
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post #2229 of 2230 Old 08-01-2017, 04:33 PM
Splinter
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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.

First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).

Tools used:
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Scribe
Center Punch
Tape Measure
Machinist Square
Hammer
Slag Hammer
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)


Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts

Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame

That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..

First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..

You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.

Rosette welded sleeve

Sleeve with races in it

Assembled Swingout Pivot

Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture..

Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.

Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...

I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.

EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11


Why can't I open any of your pictures. Don
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post #2230 of 2230 Old 09-26-2017, 10:32 AM
jbparisi
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Hey All,
I was fortunate to buy both front & rear bumpers from Eddie before he retired. After several rock crawling trips through the Rubicon, these things are hard core, stout, & indestructible. Great product and as many have already stated, Eddie was great to work with ! (Eddie - if you are reading this I hope all is well and you are enjoy the heck out of retirement)

I'm looking to expand the rear swing arm by adding an above spare tire trail rack. I found a product that looks like it might just bolt on but wanted to see if anyone has tried adding this to a "non-Rock Hard" swing arm bumper. The product that looks like it might work is the Rock Hard "cargo basket" (part # RH-2004). Has anyone attached one of these to one of Eddie's bumpers ? Looks pretty straight forward.

I'm debating whether to buy this one or weld up my own. At $250, its a bit of a wash....

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