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Unread 11-09-2006, 07:03 PM   #196
GOLDNUGGET
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Great work on the bumper. Do you have any pics of your front bumpers? I'm working on my design now. I would love to see some pics. Please email me at jeffgooch@alltel.net if it is not too much trouble.

Thanks.

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Unread 11-10-2006, 06:56 AM   #197
BESRK
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Thanks.. my front bumpers are pretty basic with the occasional stinger or 2" receiver here and there.. One thing I try and do on CJs is capture the side bolt holes for mounting a front bumper..








Did one for a buddy's XJ last a while back too... it was a PITA to piece it all together.. winch plate is just sitting on the bumper that's why it looks crooked..

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Unread 11-19-2006, 07:07 AM   #198
Overdrive
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Besrk,
Thanks for the inspiration. I have completed my front bumper (a while ago but didn't post it here) and am hard at work on the rear...

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Unread 11-19-2006, 04:33 PM   #199
BESRK
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Overdrive, your link to your pic isn't working..

Edit: It's working now..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

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Unread 11-20-2006, 05:54 AM   #200
Overdrive
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Hmmm, that's weird. I see the pic on my PC.

Here is the link:

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a..._TJ_Bumper.JPG
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Unread 11-20-2006, 05:01 PM   #201
BESRK
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Nice! Are those two holes open to the inside of the bumper or are they sealed off? Can you get a close pic of one, I'd kinda like to see how you did that..
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Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Unread 11-21-2006, 03:28 PM   #202
Overdrive
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They are all the way through. It took a LONG time to blend them in. Here are some closeups:





Links if the above doesn't work.


http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%201.JPG

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%202.JPG

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%203.JPG

Here are some pics of the rear. Of course I decided to get fancy with the rear. Angled and inset. The part I am having trouble engineering is the insets for the rear. You can see my first attempt at an inset "box" but it's going to take a LOT of grinding with a small dremel in order to smooth out the inner welds. Any ideas?





Links to above pics:

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%201.JPG

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%207.JPG

http://www.team-lan.com/Coppermine/a...bumper%208.JPG
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Unread 11-21-2006, 04:50 PM   #203
BESRK
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Use a strong air grinder with bigger bits. Those holes on the front bumper are really well done. You've got more patience than I do..
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Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Unread 11-23-2006, 06:54 AM   #204
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Thanks for the feedback!

I have a quick question on the spindle. I finally tracked down the correct DOM tubing but want to make sure of your initial specs:

"First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..
"

So, the lenth I need is 4 1/4" right?
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Unread 11-23-2006, 08:28 AM   #205
BESRK
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It actually works out a little better if you use 4.5" instead. Slide your inner separator in it, drop the bearings in it, slide the seal in the bottom and drop it on your spindle with the washer and nut cinched down by hand and the dust cap on top. Then, insert the spindle in the bumper and adjust everything so that you have about 1/4"-3/8" from the bottom of the pivot tube to the top of the bumper. Tack your spindle in place, tack your separator in place, disassemble and weld up everything. If you do it like that, it makes sure everything fits. I did one assembly a long time ago that fit well but I didn't leave any room for the dust cap so I had to start over. Also, with that size DOM, the bearings and seal my be a sloppy fit. I take a center punch and "dimple" the inside where the bearing races sit. I also "dimple" the area where the seal sits. That raises the metal and keeps the seal from falling out the bottom. You can also "glue" it in with a little weatherstripping adhesive or silicone.

Now that I've got a lathe, I'm gonna look around for some thicker wall DOM and turn it down so I don't have to use a weld in separator and I can make it a press fit for the bearings and seal.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Crozet

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Unread 11-26-2006, 03:02 PM   #206
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someone already problably asked this question but will this rear bumper fit a TJ... nice work i really like it
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Unread 11-27-2006, 05:25 AM   #207
BESRK
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Yeah.. the only thing I do different between CJ and TJ/TJ bumpers is use a different mounting plate and I add a couple small brackets that catch the bolt hole under the frame of the YJ/TJ. Biggest thing to watch out for is the tire carrier dimensions. I had a buddy who built himself a nice bumper but it was a few inches narrower than mine. He asked me to "retrofit" it with a tire carrier. Even though I moved the carrier pivot out as far as I could, it still kept him from opening his tailgate all the way. We knew that was gonna be an issue but I figured I'd just toss that info out there..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Crozet

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Unread 11-27-2006, 06:19 PM   #208
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ya cuz i mean i have 31's right now but soon i'm uppin it to 33's and i don't want to risk it with the stock carrier
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Unread 11-28-2006, 06:42 PM   #209
BESRK
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Necessity is the Mother of all invention right?.. I started this tire carrier because I wanted the wife's CJ to be able to lug around a 33" tire. Thing's have kinda snowballed since then..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 12-01-2006, 04:07 AM   #210
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Besrk,
OK, finally got the correct DOM (took 2 tries). 2 1/2" OD, I had to purchase about 3 1/2 feet of it but I went ahead and had them cut me a 4 1/2" piece for the hinge since my cheap chop saw would have done a horrible job making a nice cut.

I had a hard time finding the bearing race seperator (2" OD pipe for the inside). The best I could do was a 1.75" OD piece of pipe that "loosly" fits inside the DOM. I will try HD or Lowes this weekend to see if I can find a better fitting one. My question is how long to make the insert with the DOM being 4.5"

Thanks for your help!

Also picked up 20' of 2" x 3" and 20' of 2" x 2" square tube for the carrier. Cost me $95. Seems like most steel places don't want to sell small quantities. They charge almost the same in "cutting fees" if you want a smaller than 20' piece than if you purchased the whole thing. Oh well, I can always find a use for steel!
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