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Unread 02-13-2014, 03:22 PM   #2041
RKCWLER
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I dislike wire brushes as much as the next guy. I have pulled a lot of pieces out of clothing, rugs and carpets (tracked in from garage). I bought this product a few weeks ago, at HD to sand the trim on the roof eaves. This morning I used it to remove the PC on my rear bumper. It worked real good, but I needed an old sand disc to complete the bottom side. I should have taken a pic before the prime coating. But here is one before removal.

(Edit: Use a dust mask and full, enclosed eye protection! My lids got swollen. Maybe allergic to the powder coating.)

My better half will be out of town this weekend (1st time in 38 years she misses V-Day & B-Day), so I will finally get started on the rear bumper this weekend. I have been delayed on yet another project I just had to make. Isn't she a beauty? Got a lot of ideas from the knife makers on Youtube.

rear-bumper-2.jpg

rearbumper1.jpg

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Unread 02-13-2014, 04:03 PM   #2042
BESRK
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I use those stripping disks (normally, the black ones) for cleaning bumper blanks. They do a great job of cleaning up 2x4 tubes. Really knock down the mill scale quickly.
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Unread 02-13-2014, 04:31 PM   #2043
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That is funny--we just started using them heavily as well. I had one in the tool box for years and one of mu guys wound up trying it for removing paint from an XJ we were doing a long arm install on and it worked great. They remove paint and grime, but not the material like a flap disc. No we have a bunch in various sizes. We get them from Lehigh Valley Abrasives.
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Unread 02-13-2014, 07:36 PM   #2044
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BESRK - What grit do you use to remove scale?

I have used these maxi disc and they do a good job of various sanding, deburring, paint removal and even polishing, if you use a high number grit. I have a few in 60 grit now, but my most used is the standard 36 grit flat sand disc. I keep the used ones to deburr and smooth without gouging.
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Unread 02-15-2014, 05:47 AM   #2045
BESRK
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For bumper blanks, I use those Black Stripping Disks to clean up the surface and remove the scale.

I don't usually remove mill scale from flat plate. I just leave it in place. If it's something I'm gonna powdercoat, I toss it in the blasting cabinet and take it down to "white metal".

For general metal removal, I'll often start with a 7" grinder and a 36 or 48 grit disk. I then switch to the 4.5" grinder and a 60 grit type 29. I also use the "Maxie" style fat disks.

I get my disks from AA Abrasives... ordering in bulk.

If I really needed a lot of flat stuff without mill scale, I'd probably just order P&O plate. The problem with that, is the humidity here in VA isn't kind to P&O that sits on the shelf for a long time. It ends up flash rusting pretty quick. The mill scale is pretty good about keeping rust at bay for at least a month or two..
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Lower 2

Guardrail

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Unread 02-15-2014, 07:56 AM   #2046
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You can knock down flash rust pretty easily with muratic acid or even just "The Works" toilet cleaner (active ingredient is HCL acid). I just toss it on a drum or a couple sawhorses and rince with acid and then water. For best results, follow up with a phosphoric acid to protect.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
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Unread 02-21-2014, 05:54 AM   #2047
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Here's what the tire carrier looks like now. I would like to mount the 3rd light in the same area. Don't want to cut up the OEM enclosure. Has anyone see a similar size/shape brake light that can be mounted in a sheet metal enclosure?
rear-bumper-23.jpg

rear-bumper-25.jpg

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Unread 02-21-2014, 11:06 AM   #2048
BESRK
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I've used round "push-in" trailer lights (2.5"dia) inside a short piece of 2.5" muffler tube.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 11:24 AM   #2049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I've used round "push-in" trailer lights (2.5"dia) inside a short piece of 2.5" muffler tube.
Like!
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Unread 02-21-2014, 01:26 PM   #2050
TanMan99
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Trailer light that is trimmed to fit and ran the wires through the plate. I put some silicone on the back so i can take the tire off and it stays on.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 08:13 PM   #2051
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Quote:
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Trailer light that is trimmed to fit and ran the wires through the plate. I put some silicone on the back so i can take the tire off and it stays on.
Would you mind snapping a picture of your destaco latch setup on your swingout? Im trying to figure out.how guys are mounting them effectively
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Unread 02-22-2014, 05:09 AM   #2052
BESRK
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Here's how I do mine..

I use a short piece (about 3" long) of 2" square tube to attach the "hook" for the De Sta Co. I attach the actual latch to the end of the swingarm with a plate that I cut on my plasma table. The latch, then pulls the arm "down and forward".. locking it against that square tube.. and the latch tongue.
dsc01385l.jpg

p1010068.jpg

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Lower 2

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Unread 02-22-2014, 06:23 AM   #2053
cjjon7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Here's how I do mine..

I use a short piece (about 3" long) of 2" square tube to attach the "hook" for the De Sta Co. I attach the actual latch to the end of the swingarm with a plate that I cut on my plasma table. The latch, then pulls the arm "down and forward".. locking it against that square tube.. and the latch tongue.
Ahh very nice, that clears it all up right there. Was unsure on where to mount the hook
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Unread 02-23-2014, 01:16 PM   #2054
RKCWLER
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BESRK - I really liked your latch design, but I wanted a lower profile. It took a little more work, but I am only making one.
As far as the 3rd brake light, I may just find one to fit into a 2" x 2" tube.
Look closely and you will see parts to make a removable rack.
latchplate1.jpg

latchbase1.jpg

latchangle1.jpg

latchangle2.jpg

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Unread 02-23-2014, 05:20 PM   #2055
BESRK
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I like that.. does that style of latch have the "toggle plus" trigger? The little latch that keeps it from popping open..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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