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Unread 06-04-2013, 02:24 PM   #1966
BESRK
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Mounting plates that are about 9" long would give a good amount of material around the bolt holes..

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Unread 06-08-2013, 02:36 PM   #1967
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Hey Eddie, slightly OT, but what plasma cutter do you use? What would you consider the absolute cheapest reasonable cutter for home garage hand=guided use? I'm looking at the ones in the $400-$500 range. Thanks,
Dave
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Unread 06-08-2013, 05:18 PM   #1968
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Hey Dave! Hope things are going well down south!

I've got a Hypertherm Powermax 1250. It's an 80amp cutter. Think I paid about $3200 for it 5yrs ago or so. Prior to that, I had a Powermax 1000 (60amp). Both are awesome cutters!

The only other brand of plasma cutter I've owned was a Lincoln. I picked up one of their little ones.. I think it was called a Procut 25 or something like that. Couldn't "drag cut" with it out of the box.. and it struggled on anything thicker than 1/4".

I haven't really had any personal experience with any of the other cheaper plasma cutters.. like the ones at Northern, HF..etc.

If I had to start all over from scratch.. on a budget, I'd beg, borrow, trade, max-out-a-card, etc... to get a Hypertherm. At least a Powermax 45. While the cost is more than the price you mentioned, I think you really "get what you pay for" with regards to plasma cutters (and most tools in general).
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

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Guardrail

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Slickrock Tellico

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Crozet

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Unread 06-13-2013, 09:33 AM   #1969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask
Hey Eddie, slightly OT, but what plasma cutter do you use? What would you consider the absolute cheapest reasonable cutter for home garage hand=guided use? I'm looking at the ones in the $400-$500 range. Thanks,
Dave
I have used a friends cheap tig/arc/plasma, he paid $500 for it and the plasma worked great, hes been using it for a few years now with no issues
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Unread 06-16-2013, 08:31 AM   #1970
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Just an FYI if you get the A2Z Mega spindle the bottom hole is 1.5" and the top is 1.25". Doh.
I had cut them both the same assuming the outer tube would sit lower once the races were in. After I did that (used a 36mm socket and some light tapping with a hammer to seat them (btw the 36mm is the same size as the axle nut)), I realized if I was to weld it in the outer tube would be about 1/2 too high. Once I patched it and redrilled a smaller hole it was perfect.
.
Here is a rough dxf file. If you need cad software to open it I recommend Librecad. I will still be updating it as I go.
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Unread 07-05-2013, 03:09 PM   #1971
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DOH
I just realized I ordered the 331-R and Eddie was using the 341-R. Being in Canuckistan it is a pain in the butt getting them up here. Should I order the 341 and suck up the cost of the 331? Or do you think it is safe to use the 331? The 331 is rated for 700lbs and the only thing on the swingaway is a 33" tire.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 12:49 PM   #1972
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Hmmm.. I haven't really messed with a 331 series latch. It's less than half the rated capacity of the 341-R though.. I think I'd either return the 331, or use it in another project.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Crozet

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Unread 07-06-2013, 05:17 PM   #1973
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Eddie,

Thanks again for making such a quality product. I put my bumper on in the middle of last October, and not a peep out of this thing. I jut got back from running the Rubicon, both ways, with a 35 on the swingout...and not a single rattle.

This thing is AWESOME!!
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Unread 07-06-2013, 07:13 PM   #1974
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Hey Alan! Glad to hear it held up okay!

Wish I were close enough to run the Rubicon.. maybe someday..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 07-09-2013, 02:00 PM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Hmmm.. I haven't really messed with a 331 series latch. It's less than half the rated capacity of the 341-R though.. I think I'd either return the 331, or use it in another project.
Just got a 341-r from Amazon Supply. Paid the extra $12 to get it fast. Got it in a day. HUGE difference in size compared to the 331-R.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 02:45 PM   #1976
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So I got it on and have the latch welded on. However that didn't necessarily turn out how I would have liked. When bringing the latch in it hits up against the bumper unless you have it at one exact spot. Other thing is the hook is a tad high so there is some interference with the latch so you have to kind of lift that end up to get it over the hook. Hard to explain.
I am wondering if I get a washer and put it under the bottom bearing to raise it up a bit if that would help. The seal may do that as well but I doubt that.

On a side note, I have frame tie ins which I got from A2Z a while back. Do I really need to do the ones that bolt to the underneath of the frame? Reason I ask is I would have to find someone who has a bender to get them to work as the bottom of the bumper is about a 1/4" lower than the frame.

Alternatively I could always cut off the bracket where it attaches to the 3x3 square tube and reweld. Not sure if this is a good idea now but thinking I may do that.

So lessons learned (IOW don't do what I did):
1. When attaching the bumper to the frame bracketry make sure the bottom of the bumper lines up with the bottom of the frame.
2. Make sure the latch has no interference with the bumper when closing before doing final welds
3. center the latch before doing the welds. I thought I had but I guess not.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #1977
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The bottom edge of my bumpers sit above the bottom edge of the frame. I just put a "Z" bend in the mounting tab that goes from the bottom of the bumper to the frame. Before I had a pressbrake, I used to do the bend with a vise and a hammer.

With regards to positioning that "hook" for the latch...
I bolt the latch in place on the end of the arm. I then clamp the 2"x2" square tube "tower" to the backside of the end of the arm. I hold the latch hook in place and slip the latch's "Ubolt" over it. I then tack the hook in place on the tower. That ensures a good fit between the hook and the ubolt.

My latch mounting plates are also slightly raised in relation to the end of the arm. This helps the latch's Ubolt clear the bumper..
img_0494.jpg  
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

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Crozet

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Unread 07-17-2013, 02:55 PM   #1978
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Wish I had seen that picture before. My first mistake was making the tower the hook goes on too small. I may look at redoing that end in the future. For now I will just grumble when hooking and unhooking
On a good note I added the tie ins that attach to the bottom of the frame. All I needed was vice, some vice-grips and brute strength.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 03:05 PM   #1979
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I don't think I ever shared my recent "upgrade" latch mechanism. I like to re-purpose stuff in builds when possible.

I de-rusted a large wrench I found in the mud at a metal salvage yard and did some cutting/welding to make this. Please excuse the ugly flux-core welds.

It uses the angle of the open end to help keep it back and down, and a pull-pin latch (like in Eddie's J-hook setup) is the latch for it. Works great.



This a GPF bumper with a tire carrier I added on, BTW.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 04:46 PM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
I don't think I ever shared my recent "upgrade" latch mechanism. I like to re-purpose stuff in builds when possible.

I de-rusted a large wrench I found in the mud at a metal salvage yard and did some cutting/welding to make this. Please excuse the ugly flux-core welds.

It uses the angle of the open end to help keep it back and down, and a pull-pin latch (like in Eddie's J-hook setup) is the latch for it. Works great.



This a GPF bumper with a tire carrier I added on, BTW.
I really like your latch. I used an old wrench I found on the family farm for my latch.
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