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Unread 05-01-2013, 05:33 AM   #1951
BESRK
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Thanks Joe! Glad you liked the brackets.

I've been working on doing a rear disk conversion for my own CJ. I used the "late CJ" D30 front rotors on my Scout D44 rear. Made my own caliper brackets and used Cadillac El Dorado Calipers.

I'm waiting for a couple of brake fitting adapters to come in so I can swap in the 68 Corvette Master Cylinder that's been sitting on the kitchen counter. Hope to have the brakes working sometime in the next week.

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Unread 05-02-2013, 10:02 AM   #1952
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let me know how they go. Mine are still on the bench, I have to make a trip to the pick and pull for calipers.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 09:26 PM   #1953
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What did the whole project cost?
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Unread 05-06-2013, 09:37 PM   #1954
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I'm going the same basic route on my 9". I am using rotors from a Dodge pickup (forget what year, but read about it on here or P4x4 somewhere) and the brake brackets and calipers from a Chevy 10b (replaced with older calipers for standard thread brake lines). I'm just cutting a notch out of the plate, putting around the tube, and then welding it back together and to tube with correct spacing. I'm sure it'd be easy enough to so the same with a D44 tube. Of course, Caddy calipers if you want parking brakes. Total cost: free (with 10b I had already picked up cheap for knuckles and stub shafts in D44 build) plus consumables.

Sorry to continue off topic, but thought I could add to the discussion.

However, Eddie, I have a file for brake brackets I'd previously made if you want it as a easy start point.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 05-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #1955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
However, Eddie, I have a file for brake brackets I'd previously made if you want it as a easy start point.
I am trying to figure out the easiest way to share files in the CJ thread. I am not sure, but I think dxf's and dwg's are not files that are "postable". I wonder if there is a way to fix that?

I too have a bunch of files that are "CJ" worthy. The website plasmaspider.com is able to share those types but they are on vBulliten software.

Any ideas?

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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:33 PM   #1956
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There is a thread around here with files shared in the fab section.

I know there's this thread, but maybe there was another that shared files?

Maybe we could ask the fab section mod on here?

nudge nudge
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USN Jeep Club Hull #135 (Retired USN 1992-2012)
'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 05-08-2013, 03:36 PM   #1957
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I don't know much about the "technical aspect" of sharing files like DXF/DWG on the forum.. but I can ask.

It would be a cool subforum for the Fabrication Section..
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Unread 05-11-2013, 03:09 PM   #1958
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Okay.. Philip made it happen.

We can now share CAD Files in the following formats:

.pdf
.dxf
.dwg
.ipt


I stuck a thread for file sharing here in the Fab Forum.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 03:46 PM   #1959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Okay.. Philip made it happen.

We can now share CAD Files in the following formats:

.pdf
.dxf
.dwg
.ipt


I stuck a thread for file sharing here in the Fab Forum.
I always thought he was alright, no matter what others say LOL.

Thanks Philip!
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Unread 06-02-2013, 08:10 PM   #1960
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I have started building my Besrk inspired rear bumper and have been doing it in LibreCad (formally QCad but they went pay so I decided to get a newer one but I digress).
I have been reading this thread but am only halfway through. EDIT: Just finished reading the whole thing.
The questions I have are the following (if the answers are in the thread I apologize):
1. I am planning on putting the corner protectors on. From pictures I have seen it looks like they are 2x2 but that seems big. Anyone have better pictures with actual measurements? EDIT: Post # 1507 has a great picture so nevermind.
2. I prefer the original method of mounting the bumper to the crossmember (3x3 with a 3x9x3/8" plate). I have a 98 what is the optimum measurement for the distances between the outer and inner bolt holes as I will have to be drilling mine. Basically I assume it will be a 9" plate the question is what the distance from the outer edge of the plate to the inside?
3. For the plate mentioned in question #2, it was originally 3/8" thick. Has anyone found that thicker is better? And if so how much? Edit: Found in post 1161 that 1/2" was being used.
4. I have no intention of mounting anything to the swingaway other than the tire, what would be the optimum distance should the inner side of the bumper be from the crossmember? At the beginning of the thread it looks to be 3 3/8". (I think this is a subjective question especially with different latching options which I am going with the way Besrk is downing now but I guess that could be determined by getting off my butt and measuring).
5. On a side note, I bought the AtoZ mega spindle. Any suggestions on how to press in the races and how far in they need to go? I guess I should probably ask Zach.


Any suggestions comments would be great. I am still reading through and am at the point that I need this info to continue on.
Also I am more than willing to copy up the dxf file once I have it somewhat done if any one is interested (Eddie, I doubt you have issues with this but if you do PM me.)
Thanks!!
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Last edited by rikkards; 06-03-2013 at 09:01 AM.. Reason: Updated post
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Unread 06-03-2013, 08:52 PM   #1961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
I have started building my Besrk inspired rear bumper and have been doing it in LibreCad (formally QCad but they went pay so I decided to get a newer one but I digress).
I have been reading this thread but am only halfway through. EDIT: Just finished reading the whole thing.
The questions I have are the following (if the answers are in the thread I apologize):
1. I am planning on putting the corner protectors on. From pictures I have seen it looks like they are 2x2 but that seems big. Anyone have better pictures with actual measurements? EDIT: Post # 1507 has a great picture so nevermind.
2. I prefer the original method of mounting the bumper to the crossmember (3x3 with a 3x9x3/8" plate). I have a 98 what is the optimum measurement for the distances between the outer and inner bolt holes as I will have to be drilling mine. Basically I assume it will be a 9" plate the question is what the distance from the outer edge of the plate to the inside?
3. For the plate mentioned in question #2, it was originally 3/8" thick. Has anyone found that thicker is better? And if so how much? Edit: Found in post 1161 that 1/2" was being used.
4. I have no intention of mounting anything to the swingaway other than the tire, what would be the optimum distance should the inner side of the bumper be from the crossmember? At the beginning of the thread it looks to be 3 3/8". (I think this is a subjective question especially with different latching options which I am going with the way Besrk is downing now but I guess that could be determined by getting off my butt and measuring).
5. On a side note, I bought the AtoZ mega spindle. Any suggestions on how to press in the races and how far in they need to go? I guess I should probably ask Zach.

Any suggestions comments would be great. I am still reading through and am at the point that I need this info to continue on.
Also I am more than willing to copy up the dxf file once I have it somewhat done if any one is interested (Eddie, I doubt you have issues with this but if you do PM me.)
Thanks!!

The 97-earlier Wranglers (TJs and YJs) rear mounting bolt pattern is 1.125" x 7.800" (c2c of the bolt holes)

I use 1/2" thick mounting plates and 2" spacer tubes (the 3" square tube). So.. about 2.5" from back of bumper to the rear crossmember.

Your bearing races should press in and hit a hard stop. If they're just pressed into a piece of tube, they'll slide around under load. You either need to machine a tube (on a lathe) or press a spacer tube inside another tube.. and weld it in place... something has to keep the races apart.

Great that you're willing to share the DXF. You know, we have a thread for sharing DXFs here in the Fab Forum.. or feel free to post it in this thread..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

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Unread 06-03-2013, 09:51 PM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
The 97-earlier Wranglers (TJs and YJs) rear mounting bolt pattern is 1.125" x 7.800" (c2c of the bolt holes)

I use 1/2" thick mounting plates and 2" spacer tubes (the 3" square tube). So.. about 2.5" from back of bumper to the rear crossmember.

Your bearing races should press in and hit a hard stop. If they're just pressed into a piece of tube, they'll slide around under load. You either need to machine a tube (on a lathe) or press a spacer tube inside another tube.. and weld it in place... something has to keep the races apart.

Great that you're willing to share the DXF. You know, we have a thread for sharing DXFs here in the Fab Forum.. or feel free to post it in this thread..
Thanks for the response. The spindle is A2Z's Mega spindle so it was machined to have the hard gap between the races. Just wanted to make sure they were supposed to go in all the way. The rest helps a lot. I will probably double post the dxf in both the sharing thread and this one (or at least link to the post in the other). Since mine is a 98 what would do you do in that case? Are they still 1.125" apart? I roughly measured about an inch but I haven't taken off my old bumper yet so the 1/8" difference could be there.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 05:19 AM   #1963
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One more question, how thick is the plate used to mount the rear tire onto? It looks like 1/4" in the first couple pictures
Thanks again!
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Unread 06-04-2013, 05:25 AM   #1964
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The 98 uses the same outer bolt spacing as the earlier Wranglers.. the bolt holes are 1.125" on center (vertically). I'd bolt the mounts in place on the crossmember, drill the inner holes, tack bumper in place, remove and weld.

I make my current tire plates from 3/8" thick material.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

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Unread 06-04-2013, 06:57 AM   #1965
rikkards
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
The 98 uses the same outer bolt spacing as the earlier Wranglers.. the bolt holes are 1.125" on center (vertically). I'd bolt the mounts in place on the crossmember, drill the inner holes, tack bumper in place, remove and weld.

I make my current tire plates from 3/8" thick material.
Coolio.
I think I read that the plates were 7" wide in one posting but 9" in another. Doubt it matters much but 7" should be adequate. Right?
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