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Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along

1M views 2K replies 530 participants last post by  boomvader 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.

First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).

Tools used:
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Scribe
Center Punch
Tape Measure
Machinist Square
Hammer
Slag Hammer
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)

Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts

Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame

That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..

First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..

You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.

Rosette welded sleeve

Sleeve with races in it

Assembled Swingout Pivot

Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture.. :D

Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.

Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...

I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.

EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11
 
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#303 ·
It's just 2"x2" square with a piece of metal flat welded and ground smooth for a cap.

I no longer mount my latch in that direction though. Now, I mount it on the end of the arm and position the "hook" so it pulls the arm down into a "L" shaped mount to positively lock it. Doesn't pull down very far.. maybe 1/16" or so.. Yeah.. the latch sticks out a bit more, but it's easier to latch and more secure. I also use the "Toggle Plus" latch with the safety trigger now.

 
#304 ·
BESRK said:
It's just 2"x2" square with a piece of metal flat welded and ground smooth for a cap.

I no longer mount my latch in that direction though. Now, I mount it on the end of the arm and position the "hook" so it pulls the arm down into a "L" shaped mount to positively lock it. Doesn't pull down very far.. maybe 1/16" or so.. Yeah.. the latch sticks out a bit more, but it's easier to latch and more secure. I also use the "Toggle Plus" latch with the safety trigger now.

I've got the toggle plus latch ordered, and I'm going to use your old mounting point on mine. My bumper will but up against the crossmember so I can't have anything sticking off of the back of the bumper.

I've got to get a scrap of 2x2 to weld on there now.

Thanks!
 
#305 ·
The Bumper Rocks!

Hey Eddie, just wanted to let you know that I finally had a chance to get the bumper mounted Friday, it's awesome, you do some great work. :thumbsup: Thanks for making the connector plate for me too, it's going to work out perfect. Towing the trailer tomorrow, heading out of town for a week. I'll send pictures so that you can post them when I get back.

Be well,
Richard
 
#306 ·
I have to say I really like your rear carrier, but that latch does make me nervous. I can't say that I am a fan of how it looks or how it sticks out. On a black powdercoated bumper I'd like to have something that blends in and is not so obvious.

Any thoughts on developing a slam shut latch? Something like the AtoZ one that would pull out to open instead of screwing would be good in my opinion.

Overall excellent work, I'm jealous of your skills. I'm still undecided on which to buy, thanks for the good read.
 
#307 ·
I'm not a big fan of the "slam shut" latches. Most are difficult to align and keep adjusted. One thing you have to remember is that I send these bumpers out to a myriad of customers.. of varying mechanical experience levels. What may be really easy for one person, might be beyond the capability of another. The latch works well... allows one-handed opening... positively clamps the end of the swingarm into the mount and isn't overly ugly.. to most folks. :D
 
#308 ·
The latch, and the way Eddie mounts it, is a very great part of his bumpers. If you've ever seen a rattling slam shut style latch (I used to own a slam shut set up and hated it), you'll know why he probably hasn't received a complaint about his latch set up. It is 100% rattle free, easy to use, basically maintenence free, and doesn't really need adjusting. The pic above exaggerates how far it really sticks out; which btw is far less that the spare tire sticks out. And you could always paint it black if it bugs you too much.
 
#312 ·
Hi Eddie,

Here are the pictures that I promised. Everything bolted up without a problem. The changes we made eliminated all the conflicts with the intermediate tail lights. As you can see, if the tail gate dropped down this set up wouldn't work. Thanks for all your help and awesome work.

Mike







 
#313 ·
Wow Mike! That's a beautiful CJ5! I really like the color. If my little white project CJ5 turns out half as clean I'll be happy. Thanks for the pics!

Yeah... I think that shorter carrier turned out pretty good. I've got the CAD drawings saved for future reference. :D
 
#315 · (Edited)
Thanks!

This thread convinced me to build my own. I've had a WARN rear bumper on my 97 TJ for a couple of years now (the one that has the post for the tire swing)
was thinking of buying the matching tire swing. My problem was I wanted more than just a tire carrier, I wanted to carry gas, water, Hi-lift jack and misc other items also. All those extras indicated to me that I had to buy a new bumper and a really expensive accessories that I'm not willing to afford. I bought a 110v MIG last summer and was looking for a project to justify my purchase when I read this thread and was convinced I could build my own and get what I wanted instead of what I could afford. So I drew up some plans (I'm sure VISIO is not the best program for this but it's easy to use and has a 60 day free trial) then redrew them and redrew them etc, etc, etc, But finally came up with a plan that looks like it will work. I purchased the square tubing locally, $148.00 for 40ft of 1x1x0.120 and 20ft of 2x2x0.180, made a mistake and bought 8ft of1.5x1.5x0.120 from metals super market along with a 2ft section of 2x2x0.188 for $70 should have bought it in 20 ft lengths form the foundry like the rest. I apparently need the welding practice as currently I seem to spend 10 minutes grinding for every 2 minutes I weld. However progress is being made, today I got all most all the parts tacked together did a test fit on the jeep and it fits! Now to do the permanent welds (and the hours of grinding) apply the primer and paint and instant (yeah right) tire swing. The test will be to see if it's still attached a few months from now. I loved this thread and used it as my primer on how to build this, the changes I made were the hinge is simply a 3.5Tx2Wx0.25 DOM pipe to fit over the WARN 1.5 inch post, I'll add a grease fitting before it's installed. I beefed up the "A" frame a little to carry the added load of the jerry cans, jack and basket. The the upper portion that is made up of the upright supports and the basket is removable , it mounts by sliding the 1.5x1.5x0.120 uprights into 2x2x0.180 receivers and held in place with pins just like the trailer hitch works, only vertically. I figure I'll only use the basket and the jerry cans on the longer runs so made it removable. I'm a little concerned that the hinge my not stand the test of time but figure if it starts to fail, I'll just have an excuse to rebuild the bumper and hinge assembly along the lines shown in this thread.
 
#316 ·
If there's any doubt in your mind about the setup failing, I would recommend a "safety cable" attaching the swing arm to the bumper. Use it as a positive stop to keep the arm from swinging into the tail light. Last thing you want would be your swing arm bouncing down the interstate at 70 mph. :thumbsup:
 
#318 ·
Here are some photos of my work so far

Initial layout



I purchased an oversized tire carrier when I increased my tire size and decided to reuse it



First trial fitting after initial welds



Latch assembly



Initial welds and placement for the trail basket and supports



The satifaction of doing this myself is intense, thanks for the ideas and support.
 
#321 ·
bersk, what wall thickness are you making your carriers out of? I know you've said it, but I just wanted to clear things up before I start making mine. I finally got a welder, and if I didn't have one, I would be buying one of yours.
 
#322 ·
The swing arm itself is 2"x3"x.120" wall rectangular tubing. The "A" frame is 2"x2"x.120" wall square stock. The bumper itself is 2"x4"x3/16" wall.

Good luck on the bumper.... feel free to ask any questions.. always glad to help if I can. :thumbsup:
 
#323 ·
have you had any trouble with welds cracking or anything going wrong with larger spare tires. I will be running a 35 but mostly just on the street because on the trail I will mostly carry it where the back seat is to help with departure angles and weight distribution.

not saying they are bad welds, but just a weight issue.
 
#324 ·
have you had any trouble with welds cracking or anything going wrong with larger spare tires. I will be running a 35 but mostly just on the street because on the trail I will mostly carry it where the back seat is to help with departure angles and weight distribution.

not saying they are bad welds, but just a weight issue.
Haven't had any problems with cracked welds. The 3 highest stressed points of my carrier are the spindle, the latch and the tire carrier "head". I do use a triangle gusset under the head to spead the load out a little. Build your stuff with close tolerances and tight fits. Slop will let parts move around causing flex and fatigue.. especially in the spindle.
 
#326 ·
I have a question about the gap between the bumper and the tub. I have noticed that pretty much all after market bumpers have this gap. Is there any reason for it? I understand why the square tube of the bumper has to be the distance it is from the tub but could you add a piece of metal over this gap and give a smoother look?
 
#327 ·
I suppose you could. However, the swing arm from the tire carrier kind of covers that area up.. unless you're standing right at the tail light area looking down at the opening. That cover might make it more of a PITA to get the inner mounting bolts in/tightened too.
 
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