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Unread 02-17-2012, 04:31 PM   #1636
tdkask
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepercj8 View Post
Dude, that thing is awesome! would it be possible you could send me the specs on that? I would pay for it. I want to build one for me. I have all the tools and then some to build it. I am in Newburgh N.Y. 12550 send me an email @ mrboston@aol.com and I would appreciate it, thanks and nice job again.
That's ridiculous. First, you should be able to engineer your own from his images. Next, you can buy one from him really cheap. I can't speak for anyone, really... but I don't get the impression that he was trying to hard to be secretive about design...what with sharing here with the whole world. Also, minor improvements or mods to design would be legal.

I feel as if Eddie (BESRK) in interested in building a quality product at a good price. Every customer on here is happy. He always has enough work to keep his evenings and weekends too full. Eddie is a good guy and though I wish his the best success in this, I don't think he's trying to make a million dollars at this.

I'm seriously considering another bumper to have this feature... lol.

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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 02-17-2012, 06:28 PM   #1637
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Actually.. I don't have any "plans".. don't really need any. It's pretty simple actually.. here is how I build a bumper nowadays..

CNC Plasma Cut the Bumper Blanks (58" long).

Mark inward 1.25" from passenger side tapered end.. scribe X for spindle hole.

Use square to mark around bumper to other side for spindle hole.

Drill spindle hole with 1.5" hole saw.. both top/bottom of bumper.

Tack chain plate to 6" receiver tube.

Slide receiver in bumper till it bottoms on the chain plate.. tack and weld.

Drop clevis mounts in holes.. tack and weld.

Drop a piece of 3/16"x 1.88" x 8.25" flat stock onto the driver's end of bumper and weld it in place.. beating around the end with a 3lb mini-sledge.

Set bumper aside.


Grab 2x3 tube... 41" long. Mark/grind arc in end to match 2.75 pivot tube.

Grab 45deg latch mount (CNC cut on plasma table).. tack/weld to other end of arm.

Pound spindle thru bumper (rubber mallet).

Drop scrap piece of 2.75"x.500" wall DOM over spindle.

Slide 41" arm up to that 2.75" tube and mark centerline of receiver hitch on that 41" swingarm.

Tack piece of 2"x2"x1/8"x 16" long square tube (it's the vertical tube) to 41" arm.. centered on that mark.

Tack 2 pieces of 2"x2"x1/8"x 21" long square tubes (with 45deg ends) as the diagonals on the arm.

Fully weld those square tubes to arm.

Assemble pivot tube with mock up bearings.. pound the pivot's shank thru bumper.

Set arm on 3/8" thick spacers and butt it up to pivot tube. Tack arm to tube. Clamp down latch end of arm and run top bead between arm and pivot tube.

Squat down, stick welder inside bumper and tack spindle in place.. inside the bumper.

Disassemble pivot tube and remove arm (set arm aside).

Weld around spindle where it enters the bumper (top side).

Stand bumper up against the table and weld spindle inside the bumper.

Lay bumper back on table with bottom side up and weld bottom of spindle.

Lay another 3/16" end cap in place on passenger end of bumper and weld/hammer it in place.

Pass bumper to son so he can grind the ends down smooth.

Finish welding pivot tube to swingarm.. then set arm aside.

Grab 2ea 1/2" thick bumper mounting plates (CNC cut on plasma table) and 2ea 3"x3"x3/16"x 2" long square tube spacers and weld spacers to mounting plates (centered)... set aside.

Pick up piece of YJ/TJ rear frame/crossmember and set it on welding table.. set the bumper mounts in place on bolt holes in crossmember.

Go get a bottle of water and drink it while son finishes grinding bumper ends.

Son places bumper centered on the mounts.

Double check that everything is centered and then tack the bumper mounts to the bumper.

Remove bumper, flip it over and weld mounts solidly in place.

Reattach swingarm to bumper with mock up bearings.

Screw "Pull Pin" into "Pull Pin Barrel".. and grab one "J-Lock" (CNC Cut).

Open swingarm to "far enough" position and tack J-Lock in place on bumper (using assembled pull pin to sort of eyeball the location).

Tack Pull Pin onto swingarm where the arm meets the pivot tube.

Swing the arm open/closed a few times to check fit of "J-Lock" assembly. Weld "J-Lock" in place (remove pull knob so plastic knob doesn't melt).

Attach Mock Up Latch to other end of swingarm.

Grab a piece of 2"x2"x1/8" x 3" tall square tube (make sure son has welded and smoothed a cap on it).

Clamp that 3" tall tube to the end of the swingarm.. so it's flush with the end of the 45deg latch plate (the one welded to the arm's end).

Hold up the "hook" for the latch.. sort of hold it all together and tack the hook in place on the 3" tall tube.

Remove the 3" tall tube and fully weld latches hook in place.

Reinstall 3" tall tube, mock up latch.. and tack the 3" tall tube in place.. ensuring swingarm is flush with face of bumper.

Open swingarm and fully weld the 3" tube in place.

Grab a 1/4" x 2" latch "Tongue" (CNC cut on plasma table) off the shelf and slide it under the end of the swingarm.

Tighten latch "Ubolt" until it pulls the arm down enough to clamp that "tongue" in place.. tack tongue in place.

Unlatch and open swingarm. Fully weld "tongue in place".

Beat end of tongue downward slightly to give it a ramped profile.

Completely disassemble arm and set all components aside.

Reinstall bumper on frame/crossmember (ensuring it's centered).

Hold the lower mounting tabs (CNC cut on plasma table and prebent by son) in place under frame and tack them to bumper.

Remove bumper and finish welding the lower mounting tabs fully.

Hand bumper to son for cleanup.

Grab 2" receiver from shelf.

Drill 1/2" hole in top of receiver for "cinch nut". Eyeball it to make sure it's close to center.

Insert a bolt into the 1/2" cinch nut and drop onto the hole (bolt will center it over hole). Tack nut in place and remove bolt quickly.. before heat siezes bolt inside nut.

Weld cinch nut fully.

Stand swingarm up on welding.

Set receiver tube ontop of swingarm vertical tube and eyeball it to get it centered. Tack it in one corner only.

Lay swingarm down flat and lay a square on the arm. Eyeball the "reveal" between the vertical edge of the square and the now vertical receiver tube and tap the tube left/right to make it square up with the main swingarm. Tack receiver in 2 more places to keep it from moving.

Weld receiver to verical tube.

Grab a 2" triangle gusset (CNC cut on the plasma table) and hold it in place under receiver tube.. tack it in place and weld it in.

Give swingarm to son for cleanup.

Grab 3/8" thick tire plate (CNC cut on plasma table) off shelf.

Grab predrilled (son again..) 2"x2"x1/8"x10" long tire mount tube off shelf.

Drop three 1/2"-20x1.5" Grade 8 bolts into the 3 lug holes in tire plate. Weld the bolt heads in place.

Drop that predrilled tube onto the tire plate.. and slide it up against the lone lug bolt.. tack the predrilled tube in place. Double check the tube to make sure it's square with plate and then burn it in. Add 2" gusset between tireplate and tube.

Give tire mount to son for cleanup and tell him to go make the hardware box up.. and prep everything for shipping.


Note: Make sure to do all this within 4hrs or else your not gonna make wages or shop rent for the day... seriously.
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Unread 02-17-2012, 07:02 PM   #1638
tdkask
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
Note: Make sure to do all this within 4hrs or else your not gonna make wages or shop rent for the day... seriously.
So each time some clown shows up to the shop and BS's too long you should charge him hourly... No point in working for free.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 02-17-2012, 07:17 PM   #1639
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Holy crap Eddie can you spec that out to a chinese factory and just retail them? I thought your cnc machine did all the work and you just sat back and drank a beer while it completed a bumper. Lol. Love my GP bumpers. Referred you today to a guy that bought some parts from me.

I like having steel bumpers. Aluminum is for my beer cans.
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Unread 02-17-2012, 08:37 PM   #1640
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Nice! I like how you weld the pin housing to the swing-arm near the spindle!

My bumper days are almost over. I have enough materials to make 4-5 and then I'm done. Just tire of blowing black buggers all the time and I would rather drink a beer and watch my plasma table to the work rather then me! I do almost everything the same as you, but I pre-weld all my "A" frames and the upper receivers. Once I place my 2x3 swing arm on top of the bumper, I grab the "A" frame and make sure it is center to the receiver and tack it in place. Then I weld the entire A frame to the swing arm and then I weld the swing arm to the spindle in the same fashion you do. I just found it to be a little quicker to build the entire A frame first, but this seems to be working really well for you. I also found it easier to make sure the upper receiver is square to the swing arm. One the A frame is build, I place some 1/2" scrap on the welding table and rest the swing arm horizontally on the table. Grab an upper receiver and butt it up to the A frame. The 1/2" spacer makes for a perfect mach up of the upper receiver and the gusset has exactly enough room to fit in there good.

EDIT: Oh, I also use a 2.75" hole saw on the swing arm. I cut them to about 44", use the hole saw to cut the arch where it mates to the spindle, and then chop all the way down with my bandsaw to remove some material and make it a nice, flush fit against the spindle. Then like you, I measure 41" from the middle of arch and then cut the swing arm to size.

Don't know why I'm really chiming in....Eddie is the "bumper master"
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Unread 02-18-2012, 06:11 AM   #1641
BESRK
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I used to drill a hole saw thru my swingarms but if I cut them all at exactly 41", I can get 7 arms out of one 24ft stick with no drop left over. It probably takes us about 1 min to mark/grind the ends for the radius. Most of the time, my son cuts 2 sticks into 14 arms, grinds the ends of all of them, welds on the latch plate and grinds the end of the arm smooth where it contacts the tongue... and then leans the arms against the wall where they just sit waiting for me.

As soon as I get a chance, I'm going to plasma cut some jigs to help in assembling the arms so my son can do that too..

Jeremy, I hear ya on the plasma cutting. I like to do the same thing except that I hit "Start", and then go build a bumper or two while the table is cutting. Although it can be rough at times, I still enjoy building bumpers. I'm really looking forward to getting my pressbrake done so I can exploit a whole new process into the fabricating..
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Unread 02-18-2012, 11:23 AM   #1642
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Makes sense...no scrap is a good thing.

Hey, when you can would you mind posting a pic or two with the pin housing welded to the swing arm? I would like to see how it looks. I saw your earlier post with the pin housing welded to the spindle housing, but if you changed it I would like a peaky.
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Unread 02-18-2012, 01:58 PM   #1643
tdkask
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I was wondering if the same setup could be adapted to the latch too? I know you like the present setup but I was thinking this might be cool, even though it doesn't do as much to stop the vertical movement. I'll text you for a quote on a new bumper.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 02-18-2012, 05:20 PM   #1644
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Bumpers from the pro...Besrk

Thank you Besrk for the info. you are a true gentlemen JEEPER. I have all the tools and equipment to build a front and rear bumper which I did already but yours seems to be a lot nicer than mine, being from N.Y. and working in the metal works for myself, it seems to be sensless to buy one when I have all the tools to do it myself. I was looking for a little advice and you came through, your a good dude. Thanks and keep up the good work. I wasn't trying to steal business just some expertise know how.
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Unread 02-18-2012, 06:15 PM   #1645
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepercj8 View Post
Thank you Besrk for the info. you are a true gentlemen JEEPER. I have all the tools and equipment to build a front and rear bumper which I did already but yours seems to be a lot nicer than mine, being from N.Y. and working in the metal works for myself, it seems to be sensless to buy one when I have all the tools to do it myself. I was looking for a little advice and you came through, your a good dude. Thanks and keep up the good work. I wasn't trying to steal business just some expertise know how.
No problem.. I'm really not worried about anyone using this thread to try and make $$$. If I were worried, I wouldn't have disclosed all the info.
Truth be told.. if someone wants to take all this info and try to build bumpers for a living.. more power to them. It's a tough way to scratch out a living though.

Some measurements off the top of my head...

Bumper Length.. 58"
Bumper End Taper.. approx 6" and goes to 1/2way up bumper face
Spindle Hole.. Approx 7.25" from Passenger End
Receiver Hole.. 2.55" square hole.. centered
Clevis Mount Holes.. About 28" apart or so (can't remember)
Pivot Tube Diameter.. 2.75"
Pivot Tube Height.. 4.5"
Swingarm 2"x3"x1/8".. 41" long
"A" Frame Vertical Tube.. 16" tall
"A" Frame Diagonal Tubes 21" point to point (45deg ends)
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Unread 02-18-2012, 06:22 PM   #1646
BESRK
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Originally Posted by jatepper View Post
Hey, when you can would you mind posting a pic or two with the pin housing welded to the swing arm? I would like to see how it looks. I saw your earlier post with the pin housing welded to the spindle housing, but if you changed it I would like a peaky.
Jeremy, I left it welded to the exact same place as the old tubes.. right in the corner where the arm meets the pivot tube. I tried to slide the pin up the arm a bit but it wasn't gonna work. The pin's barrel tube diameter was gonna let the "J-Lock" bracket hit the swingarm prior to the lock "locking" securely. Since the pin's barrel tube is only 2.25" long, it has to be mounted up high on the 3" tall arm so that the pin's knob would clear the tube of the swingarm tube. Since the barrel tube's diameter is only 1" diameter, there was only about 1/4" of space between the lock pin itself, and the swingarm.. without adding some sort of spacer under the barrel tube.

So.. in the end, I just left it at the pivot tube with a 3/8" thick spacer block between the pin and the pivot tube..
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Unread 02-18-2012, 07:17 PM   #1647
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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
No problem.. I'm really not worried about anyone using this thread to try and make $$$. If I were worried, I wouldn't have disclosed all the info.
Truth be told.. if someone wants to take all this info and try to build bumpers for a living.. more power to them. It's a tough way to scratch out a living though.
Good thing you have that big ole uncle sugar check every month

Got one of your bumpers a few years ago on my TJ when I lived out in CO (and wow did shipping suck ). Have a JK now ('12 JKUR). What's the price range for front/rears for JKs from you? Not looking to change out too awfully soon...just putting together the "list"

Really like the changes you're making, btw. Some good stuff.
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Unread 02-19-2012, 07:02 AM   #1648
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Thanks Rob! You are exactly right about my "dayjob". It might not be the biggest paycheck in the world, but it comes every 2 weeks like clockwork. Plus, I love the job (teaching Soldiers).

I still don't have a production JK bumper yet. However, I recently acquired (thanks Jeremy) JK front and rear frame pieces that I plan to use for building JK bumpers/winch plates. That's still a few months off though..
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Unread 02-19-2012, 07:16 AM   #1649
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Thanks Rob! You are exactly right about my "dayjob". It might not be the biggest paycheck in the world, but it comes every 2 weeks like clockwork. Plus, I love the job (teaching Soldiers).

I still don't have a production JK bumper yet. However, I recently acquired (thanks Jeremy) JK front and rear frame pieces that I plan to use for building JK bumpers/winch plates. That's still a few months off though..
I was thinking you were retired now? Or contracting now?

And that's cool. Hopefully in the area for a couple more years (got out a couple years ago myself...6 years, 2 deployments as an infantry guy was enough )...plus I'm not in a hurry to change too awful much on a new Rubi just yet. Have to recover from the initial investment first
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Unread 02-19-2012, 05:36 PM   #1650
BESRK
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Yep.. I retired in 07.. DOD Contractor now (teaching 88H AIT and Material Handling Equipment Courses). Quite a few people are surprised that I didn't weld for the Army (as my daily job). Instead, I grew up operating Truck Mounted Cranes (Linkbelt 140, P&H 250, and Grove 40Ton RTCC), Shipboard Cranes (Hagglund 35T, 50T, 60T), Rough Terrain Container Handlers (DV43 Cat and RT240 Kalmar), and Rough Terrain Forklifts (M10A and ATLAS 10K).

One thing the heavy equipment helped me with, was developing a "feel" for rigging, pulling, lifting, pushing, failure points..etc. It's proven to be a valuable asset for both offroading and fabbing..

I hear ya on the deployment thing. During the last 10yrs, the Op Tempo has been tough on our Service Members.. I salute our Warriors for doing a phenominal job!
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