I have had mine for a few years and it has been through some of the toughest trails in the Midwest and East Coast and never rattled or had any problems at all. I had him make mine a little taller to keep 38"s up in the air for a better departure angle and to allow room for my pintle hitch as I also tow a M416 trailer without a problem.
I like the extra quarter panel protection. I have seen several TJ's come down hard on rocks in that area or even kicked up from the rear tire. For the extra cost it is cheap insurance. I have come down hard on the bumper a couple of times and it have only managed to scratch the paint.
I received my bumper/tire carrier on Thursday from Eddie and had a 3-day weekend to get it squared away. I even bought a heater for my garage so I could paint the rascal and get it on my TJ. All I can say is WOW what a product. Will post pics as soon as I get enough posts and an account on flicker or whatever it is. Bought the clevis' from Tractor Supply. My wife also thought this was one cool Jeep purchase well worth the $.
...My wife also thought this was one cool Jeep purchase well worth the $.
Well there you go... all the endorsement one could hope for. Mine NEVER thinks any of my purchases for the Jeep are wise... lol... and gets exceptionally nervous when I talk about going to Eddie's these days, as does my kid (lol... inside joke). Still, they will be the last parts left of my Jeep, I'm sure... and will eventually save her from following me all the way from VA to FL with the built in tow assembly.
USN Jeep Club Hull #135 (Retired USN 1992-2012)
'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
started a bumper project for my 04 got the bumper built and epoxy primed gotta build the tire carrier now. the bumper started out as 3/16 3x4 rectangular 1"x2" for d ring mounts, and 1/4" plate for the mounts. probaly gonna shoot it with bedliner i need a bit more metal before i can start the tire carrier so it will be a week or two before i get to that. [IMG][/IMG]http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/i382/heathvancamp/2012-01-16_07-34-04_701.jpg[/IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG]
I put this bumper on way back in the summer, just now getting around to posting the pics! I've been all over the Hayman burn area out near Divide/Terryall and have come down on this thing more than once....No issues so far, no rattles either. The only thing that's not perfect is that I bent the bottom gasket on the swing out but it holds grease and hasn't given me any problems.
MeTomWhoU = I'm TOM, who are you.....aaaah, now you get it!
Originally Posted by stopthevoices77
I tried that once. My wife got pissed! I now know not to post muff pics.
Originally Posted by corndogduff
This is the internet sweetie. Guys are guys, girls are guys, and girls that wanna meet up in real life are FBI agents.
Has been a few years since I made any substantial changes in the design but I've been messing with something for a couple weeks...
It's always kind of bugged me to use a "hitch pin" for the swingarm locking pin. They do the job but just look kind of "cheaper" than I'd like. A while back, I started making DIY Fire Extinguisher Mounts using a "Spring Loaded Pull Pin".
From the moment I opened the package and put the first one together, I thought about using them on the swingarm.
So.. I ordered a "lockable" pull pin (locks in the "up" position) with a 1/2" pin and the longest barrel body I could find, and came up with this setup. I've used it on a few bumpers already and really like it. You can lock it in the up position for quick opening/closing of the swingarm.. or you can leave it in the down position and it will lock automatically after going up a short ramp. This will eliminate the pin from dragging all the way around on the old washer setup I used previously.
Here's the barrel body welded to the swingarm. I cut a small spacer on the Plasma Table to provide a little bit of "standoff" for the pin.. so the knob doesn't hit the swingarm..
I cut the combination "positive stop/lock" from 3/8" plate on the plasma table. Maybe I'll call it "J-Lock"..
Here's the pin body when removed from the barrel body.. all you have to do for assembly, is screw this thing in. No more roll pin/hitch pin/spring, and grinding the tube for the hitch pin.. this thing is slick..
Here's how the pin swings into place.. it hits the "J-lock" and begins to ramp up..
Once the pin goes over the top of the ramp, it drops down (spring loaded) into the slot to lock the swingarm open. At the same time, the barrel body hits the back of the "J-Lock" to provide a positive stop.. helping to prevent bending the pin in case you swing the arm open a little too aggressively.
Overall, I think it looks better, won't scrape up as much paint, and is easier to figure out.. than my previous hitch pin setup.
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..