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Unread 10-03-2011, 10:48 AM   #1531
JPcpa
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond VA
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Eddie, I picked up a bumper/carrier from you a few years ago for my TJ Rubicon and just got an LJ. Can you shoot me a Pm with price for one with the LJ side extensions and frame tie-ins, with lead time?

Also, do you powder coat wheels? I've got 5 M/T classic locks that I'd like to pc black.

I'm in Richmond, so don't need shipping.

Thanks...Ian

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2004 LJ, Auto, Zone 3.5"/1.25"BL/MML/285 KM2s
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:58 PM   #1532
MikalCarbine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
Here's how I normally do it...

Bumper is pretty clean when it leaves the shop. We run over it with a high speed wire brush to clean it up. However, you can go over the welds with a "stainless toothbrush" to finish them up and then maybe wipe the whole bumper down with a green 3M Pad.

Wipe it down with something like "metalprep" or any other phosphoric acid based "etcher", rinse off residue and blow dry (hair dryer will work okay in a pinch).

Do a final wipe down with a degreaser ( I like lacquer thinner).

Shoot 2-3 coats of "self-etching" primer (Rustoleum sells a rattle can version).

Then, shoot 2-3 medium coats of your top coat of choice.
Anyone know where to find metalprep or equivalent locally? I have everything else to finish this up except an etcher.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 03:32 PM   #1533
Thumper01
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Try Ace hardware.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 04:59 PM   #1534
BESRK
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I've seen it at Lowe's before.. in the area where they sell all the solvents (Lacquer Thinner, Acetone..etc.).
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Unread 10-04-2011, 06:34 PM   #1535
yellow85cj
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Home Depot has Prep and Etch. Where the thinners are in paint dept. I use it to soak rusty parts in.

It is a phosphoric acid base. Don't let "acid" scare you. If it does, read the ingredients in the next can of Coke you drink.
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Unread 10-05-2011, 04:15 PM   #1536
MikalCarbine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
Home Depot has Prep and Etch. Where the thinners are in paint dept. I use it to soak rusty parts in.

It is a phosphoric acid base. Don't let "acid" scare you. If it does, read the ingredients in the next can of Coke you drink.
thank you!!! I spent over 1.5 hours looking before reading this

I'm going to use it on my frame and some other rusty spots on my tub tonight as well as the bumper when it comes
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Unread 10-07-2011, 09:30 AM   #1537
MikalCarbine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Here's how I normally do it...

Bumper is pretty clean when it leaves the shop. We run over it with a high speed wire brush to clean it up. However, you can go over the welds with a "stainless toothbrush" to finish them up and then maybe wipe the whole bumper down with a green 3M Pad.

Wipe it down with something like "metalprep" or any other phosphoric acid based "etcher", rinse off residue and blow dry (hair dryer will work okay in a pinch).

Do a final wipe down with a degreaser ( I like lacquer thinner).

Shoot 2-3 coats of "self-etching" primer (Rustoleum sells a rattle can version).

Then, shoot 2-3 medium coats of your top coat of choice.
Is it necessary to use water to rinse off the phosphoric acid or can you go straight to wiping it with acetone?
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Unread 10-07-2011, 02:56 PM   #1538
BESRK
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If you let the Phosphoric Acid dry, it'll become a "chalky powder".. that will need to be scrubbed off (a 3M Greenpad works well).
If you don't get the chalky residue off (especially in corners), it can bleed thru the paint.. making blemishes.


It's easier to spray the acid on.. keeping the surface wet, then rinse it off, and blow it dry (with compressed air or even a hair dryer) before it flash rusts.


Edit: We normally wipe the bumper/swingarm down with phosphoric acid before it leaves the shop (it's a good rust inhibitor). You'll see what I'm referring to with the white chalky powder..
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 10-18-2011, 06:54 PM   #1539
JPcpa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Here's some pics of that TJ Front Bumper I did a couple weeks back. The owner had it LineX'd. Almost booboo'd and made the bottom edge come to within 1/8" of hitting the steering box. I think I'm going to just revamp it a little and add in a steering box skid.. why not?


Cell phone pics...


Quote so I can find this easier... Nice bumper.
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2005 Rubicon, RE 4.5/3.5" SF, 285 KM2s sold
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Unread 10-23-2011, 08:28 PM   #1540
JPcpa
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Got my second ground pounder bumper carrier in 3 years today. The incremental improvements/cnc work are very nice. The cuts and welds are clean.

I wiped down with laquer thinner, primed with self etching and couple coats of hammered black. I used the same on my last one and it is still holding up well.

Looking forward to getting the new GP front bumper in a few weeks...and get rid of my current sb tube bumpers...
forumrunner_20111023_222546.jpg   forumrunner_20111023_222829.jpg  
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2004 LJ, Auto, Zone 3.5"/1.25"BL/MML/285 KM2s
2005 Rubicon, RE 4.5/3.5" SF, 285 KM2s sold
99 Sport, BB, BL, MML, 33s, sold
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Unread 11-03-2011, 03:32 AM   #1541
coleslaw
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Great job on the bumpers. I am getting ready to make a swing-out for mine and found some good tips here. I have a bumper that looks just like the one the OP made except it is 3" wide instead of 2. I didn't make them as I didn't have a welder at the time but got BOTH the front and rear bumpers off ebay for 320 bucks. Guy that made em had to have lost money on that one.

Here is my tip for mounting the rear bumper. When I got my jeep the rear crossmember had a cheesy little bolt-on hitch on it, that had rusted and then been welded and that had rusted and the tail end of the frame had rusted (both sides). So I cut all that off and welded in Safe-T-Caps to repair the frame. Since I was going to replace the front bumper as well, I took the OEM bumper off, welded on some wings to accomadate the rear body mounts (got a welder) and attached it to the the rear frame with 1/2" through bolts. NOTE; if you try this make sure to check the fit of the gastank skid plate when you are test fitting. I didn't and ended up having to remake the filler neck as the old one was too short...PITA. I then bolted the new bumper to this. The bumper stands out more that usual and gives me a good step as well as plenty of room for the swing out with cans, etc mounted behind and is rock solid.
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87 YJ I6, nuttered and rushed, 2.5" lift, 31x10.5, custom made f&r bumpers, Mojave heater, TJ flares, Superwinch S9000, hm swingout tire carrier, tool drawer, custom electical control, and more in the works...........
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Unread 11-04-2011, 09:08 AM   #1542
Domino
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1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Martin, TN
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Got my front bumper and winch plate in yesterday and man these things look great! Thank you Eddie for such a high quality product and the best customer service!!! I have already recommended you and will continue to do so!
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Unread 11-04-2011, 05:50 PM   #1543
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domino View Post
Got my front bumper and winch plate in yesterday and man these things look great! Thank you Eddie for such a high quality product and the best customer service!!! I have already recommended you and will continue to do so!
Thank you for the kind words sir!!
__________________
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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Unread 11-14-2011, 09:55 AM   #1544
MikalCarbine
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What is everyone using for jerry cans with this bumper? I'm very interested in the Duestche Optik NATO cans http://www.deutscheoptik.com/product_info.php?products_id=2162 but don't know if it'll fit the (Blitz?) mount provided with the bumper

By the way, all done painting and mounting, looks great! Just waiting for hi-lift and jerry can before I install the mounts


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Unread 11-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #1545
midnight_f150
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How well do these bumper work for towing?
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