Rear Bumper w/Swingout Tire Carrier Follow Along
I've been making bumpers for awhile and the biggest question I get is, "When are you going to make a Rear Swingout?!" Well, I finally got most of the parts together and figured I would start today. I thought I'd post along the way with updates as the project progresses. I hope to be done by this weekend. I will post a list of the tools I used (and hopefully substitutions you can use). I will also post a list of materials I used and any useful links that might help to locate parts. Hope this thread helps someone else as Tire Carriers seem to be a pretty popular fabrication topic.
First, a word about shop safety... ya only got one pair of eyes so use the safety glasses/face shield (especially when grinding, drilling.. etc)! Also, when using loud machines (like the grinder) where ear muffs or ear plugs. Lastly, use gloves to save your hands (drilling/grinding).
Plasma Cutter (suppose a chop saw and jig saw could substitute but you'll be cutting for a long time).
Welder (220v wire feed nice but a stick will do)
Grinder (I use both a 7" and a 4 1/2")
Band Saw (chop saw can be used)
Drill Press (hand drill can be used)
2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw
long 1/4" drill bit
1/2" drill bit
11/16" drill bit
1" drill bit (big sucker for the clevis mount holes.. it's a PITA to do!)
Phosphoric Acid to clean/etch the steel (Lowe's)
Materials Used: for basic bumper...
2"x4"x1/4" wall rectangular stock 55" long (can sub thinner material if you like but I like it beefy!)
approx 7" length of 2 1/2"x2 1/2"x1/4" wall stock for receiver (can sub a store bought receiver tube.. Northern has one for like $10)
approx 7" of 2 1/2"x1/4" thick flat stock for chain plate
approx 6" length of 3"x1/4" wall square stock (for mounting legs and receiver lip)
approx 18" of 3"x3/8" thick flat stock cut in half for the bumper mounting flanges
approx 18" of 2"x1/4" thick flat stock for bumper end caps
approx one foot of 2"x3/4" thick flat stock for clevis mounts
Materials for the Swingout
2 1/2"x1/4" wall DOM Tubing (from here.. DOM Tubing)
2"OD pipe for the inner sleeve/bearing spacer(Lowe's)
1" trailer spindle rated for 1000lbs (Spindle)
Spindle Bearing Kit (Spindle Bearing )
De Sta Co 2000lb Latch (Latch
2"x3/16" wall square stock for carrier frame
That's as far as I got today with the materials list. I got most of the cutting and drilling done... here are the pics..
First, I cut the pivot tube from the 2 1/2" DOM tube.. 4 1/4" long. Then I cut an inner bearing separator from 2" OD pipe and rosette welded it in 4 places to hole it in place..
You can see the tube in the center with the sleeve in it. The rest of the stuff is the bearing kit and of course.. the 1" spindle.
Rosette welded sleeve
Sleeve with races in it
Assembled Swingout Pivot
Bumper Blank with 1 1/4" hole cut (top and bottom) for spindle... I'm tippy toeing to take the picture.. :D
Pivot test fitted to bumper.. I did this before making any other cuts on the bumper so that if I ruined it, it would be before I went through the trouble of making all the other cuts.
Drilling the 7" long 2 1/2"x1/4" wall square receiver tube for the pin.. I use a long 1/4" bit to go all the way thru both sides of the tube. That way the holes line up...
I then follow up with a 11/16" bit.
EDIT: Instead of making your own receiver tube, it's probably just as cheap and definately easier to buy one from a trailer supply store... Northern sells 6" long weld-in receiver tubes for about $11
Here are the bumper mount parts, the end cap pieces, one clevis mount, the receiver and the receiver lip.
Here are the rest of the bumper parts including the cool looking chain plate (2 1/2" flat cut at 45 deg ends and drilled with 1 1/4" holes..) You can also see that I've finished cutting out the bumper. I measure and scribe carefully to end up with tight fitups to ensure strong welds.. Both the receiver tube and the clevis mounts pass all the way thru the bumper and will be welded front and back... on another day. :D
I like the tight fitting weld between the beer can and the coolie cup personally :rofl:
Yeah... but when that weld is tight, the other welds open up.. :rofl:
Okay... another day another chance for a stupid mistake :D I intended to have the pivot on the passenger side of the bumper and the latch on the driver's side... but I was trying to remember to take pics while I was working and ended up sticking the receiver in from the wrong side of the bumper (which ended up making the bumper face the wrong way). Didn't catch it until I had burned in the receiver.. oh well, tomorrow I'll redrill the pivot hole and fill in the other one.. anyways... here's what I got done this afternoon...
Cleaned up the receiver parts in preparation for welding..
Checked fit and tacked the parts in place..
Receiver welded in place. Notice I used flux-core wire so I'll have to clean up the welds.. no problem, I'll cover that later on..
Here, I'm setting a clevis mount in place making sure that it sticks thru the bumper just enough to get a nice smooth weld on the back side..
I set a piece of 1/4"x2" flat on the end to check fit prior to burning it in...
Here's the basic bumper blank pretty much complete (only lacking mounts and swingaway parts)...
Here's one end rough ground with the 7" grinder. It used to take me forever to grind down the end welds with my little 4 1/2" grinder.. the 7" monster does each end in about 10 minutes or less.. I'll run over them again tomorrow with a 7" flapper wheel (60 grit) to smooth 'em out. Total time I worked on bumper today.. about an hour and a half.
You do good work Eddie, Send me some pics when its all complete.
Okay.. I'm back with more.. fixed the spindle holes up. Welded them up and ground them smooth. Redrilled the other end of the bumper. I needed to layout the pattern for the actual carrier so I drew it out on cardboard at actual size...
Here, I mocked up the swingarm to get an idea of how it was gonna fit..
Here is what I'm going to use for a stop.. cut down a little of course. Note the washer under the arm to space the end up a bit so it doesn't drag..
Here is the latch system in place.. I welded it instead of bolting it on because the bolt holes were too big for the 2" square arm. I'll clean 'em up and shoot 'em with the POR 15. I had to decide on whether I wanted the latch to pull down or pull back when it ws latched.. I went with pulling the arm back against the stop...
Wear gloves when handling the grinder..
Here is the system I'm going to use to actually mount the tire. I'm making it adjustable to handle different sized tires (up to 38"?). The plate on top is one of my standard CJ mounting plates. I'm going to use that pattern to make plates with different accessory mounts on them.. Highlift, Gas Cans, Shovel/Axe.. etc. The accessory plate will then bolt to the top of the carrier but will remain removable.. when you're done wheelin' you can take your stuff off and store it in the garage away from prying eyes and hands...
Here are the mounting feet (3"x1/4" wall square welded to 3/8"x3" flat plates).
Okay.. I get to cheat a little!! I do have a Jeep bumper jig (remember I sell bumpers part time). However, you can mount the plates to the Jeep's crossmember and then tack the bumper in place to get the mounting points right...
I finished welding most of the stuff and cleaned up the welds with a highspeed wire brush.. here is the pivot gusset..
Here is a top view of the latch system.. nice and tight. Hope it doesn't flex/rattle on the Jeep..
enough for today.. a buddy stopped by to check on my progress and look what he brought.. time to stop working for the day. Total time worked today.. about 6 hours or so...
wOw! That is some serious metal work. if I could buy that I would be a happy jeeper. i don't think I could make something that HD and I'm sure you used many tools.
So if you ever decide to make one for sale. I'm your buyer!
Looks great, keep us updated. :)
The real question is, "Was the injured hand able to hold the cold beer?" :)
wow, after seeing your work, it makes me want to take my olympic off and buy your stuff :)
just out of curiosity... with all the lawyers dictating what you can and can't say these days, is your bumper "safe" to tow with? I got a trailer and ATV's I like to drag around.
one last question.... The inside of my olympic hitch is so friggin tight, that I can only get ONE hitch to slide into it! Know of anyway I can loosen it up?
Hehe.. the towing question :rtft: I don't officially rate my bumpers for towing. However... I have used my bumpers to pull a double axled trailer full of gravel that weighed about 2 tons a couple of miles (it was an adventure behind a CJ5 to say the least). Honestly, I'd really like to test one of the hitches to failure sometime. I'm a crane operator (for the Army) and would like to attach a big (10,000lb) weight to the bumper mounts, attach a clevis mount to the hitch and lift it up to see what happens). As for opening up the inside of a tight hitch... you can file it (been there done that) or you might be able to pick up one of those pneumatic "finger" belt sanders.. I've seen one in Northern for about $50. I think I would just find a tube that fits or run a flapper disk over one until it does. As for my "ground" hand holding the beers... the more I drank the easier it got and the less it hurt.. :rofl:
Not many are rated for towing. It is that legal thing.
You know.. I trust my life to my work (having built my own rear frame, suspension work..etc.) but I hate to put other's lives in my hands. I've had enough of that in the Army. All I want to do now is relax, melt some metal together, grind it into shape, and enjoy the finished product. If I can make a few extra bucks on ths side.. all the better (and trust me, with the price of steel, it's not easy to clear much profit building 1/4" thick bumpers). If, god forbid, someone tows with one of my bumpers and there is a mishap resulting in damage, injury, or <gulp> death.. I'm finished. I would probably lose everything... (not to mention the poor victim!). So, officially... my bumpers aren't for towing.. the receiver is for "recovery use only."
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