Reaming knuckle for ball joints? -
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: YourMom's
Posts: 1,056
Reaming knuckle for ball joints?

I'm contemplating a 1-ton steering upgrade for my YJ and I want to do it myself if I can. I'm not the most mechanically inclined individual in the world and I'm concerned about reaming the holes for the new larger ball joints.

I'm planning on going with JCR Off road and on their website it has links to the drill bits and reamer the job will need, and it also has install instructions.

In the instructions it explicitly emphasizes making sure your hand drill is parallel to the hole, and not moving around while reaming or your tie rod end will move around while driving as a result.

I will be doing this with the knuckle on the Jeep and this will be my very first time using a reamer.

What is the proper procedure to reaming a knuckle for a ball joint without reaming too much? And is it difficult to keep the drill from making the ream uneven or unparalleled?


YnotJ92 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 09:15 AM
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lake Stevens
Posts: 970
When I did the tie rod flip on my CJ knuckles, I left them on the axle while I drilled and then reamed by hand. Since I was using a straight reamer and an insert that sat in the hole (followed by some welding), I could afford to be slightly less precise. Even with a brand new sharp reamer, I kind of found it awkward to turn the holder without bumping into things, and keep it 100% straight/lined up as it was cutting.

Had I done a tapered hole I would have taken the knuckles off and either put it in a vice, or used a drill press to drill/ream. At least with a drill press you can set your drill press stop to make sure you don't go too far.

If you still end up doing it on the vehicle and by hand, I would say do a little at a time since it's easier to keep going than add material from taking too much material. And use plenty of lube.
dirtdudeaz is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 06:11 PM
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 319

"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
lar308 is offline  
post #4 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 09:20 PM
Web Wheeler
timatoe's Avatar
1990 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Grass Valley
Posts: 16,122
I did mine with a cordless DeWalt, go slow, check fit, repeat. The first one was great, second one went too far. So far I drilled it out and used an insert. Go slow.

Originally Posted by George Orwell
We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.
timatoe is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 06-20-2015, 07:46 AM
Web Wheeler
Jim1611's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,309
The drill and reamer will cut better if you use some type of lubricant/cutting agent on them. Some canola oil will work if you have that at home. Also keep the chips brushed out of the reamer flutes. As has been said go slow.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(Crabtree Shackle Hangers)

My build thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Jim1611 is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 06-26-2015, 12:57 AM
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Southeast
Posts: 846
I did this on my jeep. It can not be said enough to go slow. I wasted a pitman arm going to much.

I bought a gm taper reamer from speedway motors. Way cheaper than The other companies and I have now reamed 15-20 holes and it still cuts like new.

Its pretty easy. Go slow, use plenty of oil, and check frequently. once you start getting close it goes fast so check every few seconds. The best way is to stick the TRE in till its at the right depth.

1979 CJ5 408 AMC dana 60/14b, T18, d300, PSC hydro assist
1948 Willys CJ2a LS 4.8/sm465 scout 44's
levergun is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome