Reaming knuckle for ball joints? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
YnotJ92
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Reaming knuckle for ball joints?

I'm contemplating a 1-ton steering upgrade for my YJ and I want to do it myself if I can. I'm not the most mechanically inclined individual in the world and I'm concerned about reaming the holes for the new larger ball joints.

I'm planning on going with JCR Off road and on their website it has links to the drill bits and reamer the job will need, and it also has install instructions.

In the instructions it explicitly emphasizes making sure your hand drill is parallel to the hole, and not moving around while reaming or your tie rod end will move around while driving as a result.

I will be doing this with the knuckle on the Jeep and this will be my very first time using a reamer.

What is the proper procedure to reaming a knuckle for a ball joint without reaming too much? And is it difficult to keep the drill from making the ream uneven or unparalleled?

Thanks

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post #2 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 09:15 AM
dirtdudeaz
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When I did the tie rod flip on my CJ knuckles, I left them on the axle while I drilled and then reamed by hand. Since I was using a straight reamer and an insert that sat in the hole (followed by some welding), I could afford to be slightly less precise. Even with a brand new sharp reamer, I kind of found it awkward to turn the holder without bumping into things, and keep it 100% straight/lined up as it was cutting.

Had I done a tapered hole I would have taken the knuckles off and either put it in a vice, or used a drill press to drill/ream. At least with a drill press you can set your drill press stop to make sure you don't go too far.

If you still end up doing it on the vehicle and by hand, I would say do a little at a time since it's easier to keep going than add material from taking too much material. And use plenty of lube.
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 06:11 PM
lar308
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"Snowball" 1990 YJ, 4.2, Weber, HEI, 3.5" springs, .5" boom shackles, dana 44's, 5.13's, Detroit locker's, 4340 axle shafts, 1 ton trod ends, Tom Woods SYE & rear shaft, 35" MTR's on V5 cragars, M8274
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-18-2015, 09:20 PM
timatoe
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I did mine with a cordless DeWalt, go slow, check fit, repeat. The first one was great, second one went too far. So far I drilled it out and used an insert. Go slow.

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post #5 of 6 Old 06-20-2015, 07:46 AM
Jim1611
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The drill and reamer will cut better if you use some type of lubricant/cutting agent on them. Some canola oil will work if you have that at home. Also keep the chips brushed out of the reamer flutes. As has been said go slow.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-26-2015, 12:57 AM
levergun
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I did this on my jeep. It can not be said enough to go slow. I wasted a pitman arm going to much.

I bought a gm taper reamer from speedway motors. Way cheaper than The other companies and I have now reamed 15-20 holes and it still cuts like new.

Its pretty easy. Go slow, use plenty of oil, and check frequently. once you start getting close it goes fast so check every few seconds. The best way is to stick the TRE in till its at the right depth.

1979 CJ5 408 AMC dana 60/14b, T18, d300, PSC hydro assist
1948 Willys CJ2a LS 4.8/sm465 scout 44's
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