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Unread 03-27-2005, 10:08 AM   #1
KRAMONUT
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Rancho In-Cab Remote Write-up (lots of pics)

Rancho RCX In-Cab Remote Write-up (Cross-Posted from JU for the guys that don't visit there)

In preparation for the new OME springs & Rancho 9000ís to go on when I have some free time, I took advantage of the decent weather & installed the In-Cab remote. Iíve seen this topic come up from time to time & w/ the recent buy (4) & get the free remote deal Iím sure there will be more posts about this. Hopefully someone will find this helpful.

First few steps can be done in the house/garage

Hereís everything that comes in the box:


As you can see, Iíve already connected the brass nipple, check valves, & push adapters to the compressor. Make sure when you put the check valves on that the arrows face away (w/ direction of flow) from the compressor. I used Teflon tape on all the threads.


Connect the push adapters to the back of the RCX controller; again use Teflon tape on the threads:


Once out in the Jeep find a suitable location for your controller. Mark & drill holes for the two self-tapping screws. Mine will work well right here:

It wouldíve been nice to find some metal to drill into, but the plastic panel holds the controller (not very heavy) just fine & its sturdyÖdoesnít move much when you push the buttons.

I have a full console & it fits just to the left & front of it. Itís out of the way of the Tcase shifter & I donít smack my leg on it while driving. I would advise against putting it right in front of the console, as you can see in the next pic the adapters stick out quite a bit & would make connecting the air lines a p.i.t.a if itís too close to the console:


After you figure out where to mount it & got your holes drilled (remember always measure twice & drill once) unless youíre me & have to drill 2 to 3x to get it right , take the controller off the dash & take a look at the back.

The ground & power wires for the bulbs are way short. I soldered/shrink-wrapped some longer wire to them. The bulbs/wires pull right off the back so go ahead & give yourself some working room & just pull Ďem off for now.

I soldered both grounds together & found a bolt towards the front of the console that will work great for a ground. I soldered both power wires together & connected them to a longer power wire. Fish them behind the dash over behind the glove box.

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Unread 03-27-2005, 10:09 AM   #2
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You have a few options here. (FIRST, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!) One, you could splice these into your dimmer wire. I didnít know where this was & didnít feel like fishing thru the FSM to find it. Two, just wire it to a switched fuse in the fuse box. Or third, you can find the switched un-used power wire up behind the dash (sorta behind the stereo). I donít know if you can read the tag in the pic, but it says ĎSwitched Auxillaryí. I found this wire tucked up behind the dash, so I went this route.

I also tied in the power wire for the compressor to this wire. I ended up using a butt splice & duct tape Ďcause my new butane solder iron decided to take a crap on me.

Note: I know absolutely zilch about electrical, so if you end up frying something, donít blame me. So far I havenít set anything on fire, so Iím happy.

Now to start hooking up some air tubing to the controller. I cut (4) roughly 4Ē pieces & connected them to the back of the controller. The little cutter Rancho gives you is a great, I found a bunch of other uses for this thing, very sharp!


Now connect (2) Teeís. You may want to trim the inside tube a little shorter, that way your Tee will point straight towards the firewall. In the pic I didnít do that at first, but went back & trimmed it a little:

Youíll have a Tee for the Front & Rear, one line for the pump & one for the bleed valve for the F & R.

Now pop the hood & scope out where youíll mount your compressor & run your tubing. I donít have ABS so I already planned on putting it on the ABS tray, tons of room there. You will need to run (2) air lines thru the firewall to the controller. When you do this give yourself some way of knowing which is for the front & for the rear. I used masking tape w/ an F & R.

I ran the line thru the grommet where my hand throttle cable goes.

Hereís a shot from the inside (just above & to the right of the gas pedal):

I know it looks a little messy right there, but what I ended up doing & would strongly suggest is drill (2) holes thru the grommet for the air lines. It looks cleaner & thereís less chance of them kinking in the chopped up grommet.

At this point youíll want to run your power line for the compressor. Thereís two red wires, the longer one will run thru the firewall (thru the same grommet) & connect to the back of the controller. From the controller the shorter wire w/ the fuse (donít forget to put the fuse in!) will run to a switched power line, already told you where I tied in. Iíd eventually like to put in an auxiliary fuse box from Painless for this kind of stuff, but havenít gotten around to it yet (famous last words eh?)

After your power wire is run connect both air lines that will run from the compressor to the controller. You should also plug the bulbs back in.

Note: in the above pic I only have one power wire connected, & the bulbs are not shown.

Once youíre happy w/ your wiring & air line connections go ahead & mount your controller in its final location. You also may want to tidy up the wires & air lines. I used some small split loom that made it look pretty clean
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Unread 03-27-2005, 10:10 AM   #3
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Here it is in its final location. Iíve yet to put my console back in Ďcause I will be doing some stereo work soon & want to run some wiring thru that area, but you get the general idea (although Iíll be awful pissed if my console doesnít fit right!:


Back under the hood! Youíll want to mount your compressor in a suitable location. As I mentioned, mine will sit on the ABS tray. Now if youíre going to do this, PLEASE learn from my mistakes. First, either remove the damn ABS tray before you begin & do the work on a bench or make sure you can access the bolts from underneath before you drill the holes. I didnít do the later & realized that there was no way in hell I could get my fat arms up there to screw a bolt on. I ended up utilizing only (2) of the four bolts to hold down the compressor, but surprisingly that seems to be enough & Iím happy w/ how secure it feels, so Iíll leave it be for now.


I could have went back & rotated the compressor for better mounting of the bolts, but daylight was dwindling & my drill was dying. For now, it works.

Use a self tapping screw & connect the ground wire to the chassis. You should remove some paint when you do this (I didnít bother). Connect the power wire to the long wire that you ran thru the firewall. I used split loom on this wire. As you can see in the pic below, they give you ample wire on the compressor. You may choose to trim some of this. I just zip-tied it away from the compressor to avoid it getting too hot, works for me.

I also used split loom for the air tubing that runs in the engine bay. Figured it looks cleaner & should help protect it from the hot motor. I ran the lines along the top of the firewall to the driverís side where the ABS tray/compressor is.

When you look at the directions they imply using Teeís for the shocks near the axles or some other location not close to the compressor. I opted to keep all the Teeís right there at the compressor, I figure if thereís a leak I donít need to go crawling under the Jeep looking for a disconnected Tee or something. Much easier to have all the connections right here & just run (4) lines from the engine bay back to the shocks.

From the compressor you will need a short length of tubing on both sides. Connect your lines from the controller. Use another short run of tubing & connect another Tee, just remember which line is for the front & which is for the rear.


Hereís a shot w/ the tubing & the power wire in separate split loom running at the top of the firewall below the thick split-loom. The compressor is down on the bottom right.


Put your keys in & test your compressor!


Final notes.
As you can see, Iím not finished. I do not have the shocks installed yet, so I didnít bother running the air lines. You will have to replace the manual adjustment on your shocks w/ the adapters Rancho gives you. Iíll update this thread or start a new one when I get everything installed. Should be within the next month as I have time.

Iím gonna take some rough measurements & see how long my air lines will be & if I have enough tubing from Rancho. 2 lines will be very long running back to the rear shocks; the 2 in the front wonít be so bad. I will run down the left side (driver) & try to find a run where the lines will be somewhat protected, perhaps along side the frame-rail. I still havenít decided to run my shocks can-up or down yet so that will determine exactly where I run my lines.

After seeing the controller at night, I wonít bother finding the dimmer wire for the bulbs. The thing is not very bright & hardly a distraction mounted so low. I canít see it half the time past my leg. If you mounted it higher, this may be important to you.

Any questions, comments or criticism is certainly welcome.

HTH

Mark
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Unread 03-28-2005, 11:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAMONUT
I still havenít decided to run my shocks can-up or down yet so that will determine exactly where I run my lines.
I don't think the Ranchos can be mounted upside down and still work reliably. Their external can shocks have the adjuster at the top and the standard 9000's are at the bottom in most models.
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Unread 03-28-2005, 01:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
I don't think the Ranchos can be mounted upside down and still work reliably. Their external can shocks have the adjuster at the top and the standard 9000's are at the bottom in most models.
From Racnho's website re: their RS5000 shocks:
Q: Can I mount the RS5000 upside down?
A: The RS5000 are designed to operate in either direction. In most applications the position of the shock is determined by the vehicles mounting configurations. Rancho does not recommend nor warrant the use of shocks that are not specifically listed for your vehicle in the Rancho catalog.


I e-mailed their tech line asking about the RS9000X shocks to see if they're the same. I'm going to be getting them along with the In-Cab remote and think it would be easier to run the lines to the frame end vs. the axle end.

KRAMONUT - nice write up!

-Eric

Last edited by ATL TJ; 03-28-2005 at 04:55 PM.. Reason: Spelling
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Unread 03-28-2005, 11:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL TJ
From Racnho's website re: their RS5000 shocks:
I e-mailed their tech line asking about the RS9000X shocks to see if they're the same. I'm going to be getting them along with the In-Cab remote and think it would be easier to run the lines to the frame end vs. the axle end.

KRAMONUT - nice write up!

-Eric
But unless you get mounting adapters you won't have a choice. If you get 'TJ' shocks form Rancho, they are only going to mount one way (dial down). But it's not bad, you just go to the top of the shock and leave enough line for full shock droop + an inch and run it down to the bottom. That's what most people do anyhow. The other option would be run it down a control arm but it's more voulnerable there and could get pinched..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 03-29-2005, 05:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
But unless you get mounting adapters you won't have a choice. If you get 'TJ' shocks form Rancho, they are only going to mount one way (dial down). But it's not bad, you just go to the top of the shock and leave enough line for full shock droop + an inch and run it down to the bottom. That's what most people do anyhow. The other option would be run it down a control arm but it's more voulnerable there and could get pinched..
Oh yeah, I see what you're saying. I was thinking he had a bigger lift. I'm not getting front shocks with a stud, going to use adaptors...going to use adaptors for the rears as well. This is going with a RE 4.5" SF.
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Unread 03-29-2005, 04:18 PM   #8
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On JU this has been a debated topic & the final conclusion is that they absolutely CAN be run can up w/o problem. One user even had confirmation from Rancho that this is ok & they will still warranty the shocks.

Give me a bit & I'll see if I can dig up the link. Trying to get the search to work over there is ridiculous.
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Unread 04-08-2005, 12:49 AM   #9
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Kramonut, you can mount them either way. I have the 9000 and I talked to Rancho techs. and was advised that either way was OK. I got the free kit when I bought my shocks and installed it. It took me a few hours and I put the compressor in cabin. It worked great for about three weeks and one day the front stopped working. I was loosing pressure. It came from one of the connections on the shock. I'm not sure if something got caught while wheeling.
Result I could not fix it and decided to remove the kit. But when it did work it was pretty cool. I run the the front and rear shocks with the reservoir up. Good luck it looks like you're doing a good job.
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Unread 04-08-2005, 07:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by guyane
I run the the front and rear shocks with the reservoir up. Good luck it looks like you're doing a good job.
So you have the reservoir version of the 9k's. I don't. They were too pricy. I just have the strait can versions which, unless you get the eye conversion kit, only mount one way (controller down). Once I go to my 4" RockKrawler long arm though, I'll probably switch out to an eye conversion and get new reservoir shocks which mostly have their controls at the top anyhow (well, top as in how they are intended to be mounted anyhow).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
If you can't take a nano-second to press shift/period/etc. and make proper sentences and paragraphs, I don't know if I can take a few minutes to respond to your topics... It doesn't have to be perfect by any means, but a little effort goes a long way.
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Unread 04-12-2005, 10:24 AM   #11
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Thx for the info guys....good to know.

Also, as an addendum to my write-up.

Do not connect the light bulb wires to the compressor power wire where I did. I'm sitting there a week or so ago & wondering why the lights on my controller were on all the time & didn't turn on/off w/ the lights. Well...doh...I didn't connect it to a power wire that turns on/off w/ the lights.

So, I'm gonna hunt around for a wire that does this. When I find one I'll post back.
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