Hey guys, THANKS!!! That video was awesome, thank you very much for taking the trouble to find it for me five-string!!
So I also learned I need to switch my polarity now and it makes perfect sense as I think about it, electrically speaking, to use the negative lead for the stinger since current actually flows from negative to positive. That's what I'll do, hopefully today, as well as getting another short jumper so I can run 36v if the 24v test with switched polarity isn't enough. That video was welding some far heavier steel than I'd see on the trail so I'm thinking 24v may be enough for the 1/8" to 3/16" more typically used in Jeeps. And as John (Ironworker) suggested in a PM, I'll also pick up a box of 70 series electrode to see what that does.
Thanks a bunch guys, and especially thanks to five-string for that video. That was EXTREMELY helpful!!
Making progress, I finally got a chance to do some stick welding under the tutelage of two friends, got about an hour's worth of instruction and I've got the hang of it. Way different from MIG welding but in many ways not that much different. I was really digging the stick welding, that is for sure.
I did find that I liked welding with my friend's 6013 rod better than the 6010 I bought earlier. So I bought some 1/8" 6013 today to practice with, what thickness of steel is 1/8" 6013 good up to? I was also hoping to pick up some 7018 but the shop I was at didn't have any on hand.
1/8" 6013 will weld anything ever needed on the jeep for a temporary trail fix,i would go with a 3/32 for trail uses,even 3/32 is over kill on anything for a jeep.
6010 runs much different than any rod but a very versatile rod,,we knickname it "Rust Rod"..because it'll burn through rust,paint,grease..you name it..it'll burn out junk and then burn into the metal...we use it on jobs repairing old structural steel in stell mills..paper plants..etc where the buildings were built in the early 1900's and the buildings are litteraly rusting away and need replacement/repairs and use the 6010 so burn the junk out and then grind where possible and go over with a 7018..
7018 runs much different also,at times harder for a beginner to run because it will stick alot easier,but it runs much smoother and a MUCH stronger weld than any 60 series rods once you get the hang of holding a good arc and know the heat to run it good.
Any rod you decide to go with,i would carry 3/32 and maybe a some 1/16 rod for the thinner stuff too,1/8" would be way over kill plus hard to NOT burn through frame repairs and most bracketry on a jeep with 1/8"...3/32 is MORE than enough,plus i would think 3/32 wouldn't overheat the battery setup near as much as the 1/8"
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Good info, thank you. I was thinking the 1/8" looked pretty heavy for my particular needs but the particular shop I bought it from didn't have it in 3/16" or even 1/8". 1/8" 6013 sure welded nice on the huge welder I tried it on Sunday but that was on some pretty heavy scrap steel. I'll pick up some 3/32" and maybe some 1/16" 6013 asap and then some 7018 once I am a little better with the 60 series stuff. Thanks!
Yes it has been used and it actually works better than most who have been around it on the trail thought it would. It does burn pretty hot though so you really have to keep the stick moving or you'll blow holes through the work. I got some hints from others about how to reduce the penetration by reversing the polarity (tip negative, ground positive) and using 1/8" 7018 so I'm going to try that the next time. I think this setup could weld 1/4" on the trail, which is why you really have to be careful to keep the stick moving and why I am going to try what was suggested in a follow-up thread I posted several months ago at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/e...hoice-3537690/.