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Unread 08-17-2010, 12:00 AM   #46
Jerry Bransford
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Originally Posted by KJFactor View Post
I just want to add that if you cover your welding sticks in wax (candle wax works) it allows the stick to keep dry until you use it. Just scrap off the end and go to work and the rest melts off. Slight trick I picked up. Underwater welding allows you to keep your rods dry or dry-er when using them.
Cool idea, thanks and that makes sense for those who have to weld under water. I never even thought about the water problem when stick welding underwater.

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Unread 08-17-2010, 09:13 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Cool idea, thanks and that makes sense for those who have to weld under water. I never even thought about the water problem when stick welding underwater.
I just figured it would be benificial if you have a kit in your rig and not everyday is it bright and shiny when wheeling. But like said before a tube with a cap works just as well. Hey you never know...Your doing a river crossing, got hung up on a rock, busted something that needs welding. Now you and your buddies have your welding kit, get it all hooked up and Jerry Bransford dives down for the win.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 01:42 PM   #48
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I am also working on a "trail welder" but I am taking a significantly different approach. The Goal is to hook up to 2 car batteries and use a flux cored mig machine.

My "parts"
1. Cheap ($90) harbor freight Mig welder. I have had this for years, and was my first welder. Now I have much better AC machines.
2. 24v PWM Motor Speed Control (To replace the AC controlled Wire Motor in the HF unit)
3. Battery Cables to make it all work

My thoughts are to gut the welder and just use it for the wirefeed mechanism ground clamp and mig gun. This will use flux core wire. I will replace the motor speed control with one I got on ebay to control the wire speed (DC vs AC) Motor is of "universal" type that should run on DC also. Because I dont need the transformer, the entire package should condense to be pretty compact, similar to a ready welder etc. We tried last year to stick weld unsuccessfully and I came up with this idea. Not to mention the mig gun is easier to get in to weird postions.

All the parts arrived last week, and I hope to have a protype proof of concept this week, then make it fit in a smaller box after it "works" Any thoughts on this?
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Unread 08-17-2010, 02:31 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlocktk View Post
I am also working on a "trail welder" but I am taking a significantly different approach. The Goal is to hook up to 2 car batteries and use a flux cored mig machine.

My "parts"
1. Cheap ($90) harbor freight Mig welder. I have had this for years, and was my first welder. Now I have much better AC machines.
2. 24v PWM Motor Speed Control (To replace the AC controlled Wire Motor in the HF unit)
3. Battery Cables to make it all work

My thoughts are to gut the welder and just use it for the wirefeed mechanism ground clamp and mig gun. This will use flux core wire. I will replace the motor speed control with one I got on ebay to control the wire speed (DC vs AC) Motor is of "universal" type that should run on DC also. Because I dont need the transformer, the entire package should condense to be pretty compact, similar to a ready welder etc. We tried last year to stick weld unsuccessfully and I came up with this idea. Not to mention the mig gun is easier to get in to weird postions.

All the parts arrived last week, and I hope to have a protype proof of concept this week, then make it fit in a smaller box after it "works" Any thoughts on this?
Well A MIG welder is a constant voltage machine, as opposed to a constant current (Stick and TIG). But of course you dont have any adjustment of either, so you will have to set it all off of the wire feed speed.

I can see it having alot of problems getting it to work right and all that with no current adjustment. But I also wouldn't be too surprised if you get lucky and it works ok. Alot more goes into FCAW than stick welding (machine wise), but it might work.

Keep us posted!
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Unread 08-17-2010, 09:22 PM   #50
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Jerry I would recommend E6013 or E6011 rod, because they are very versatile as far as current type and rod polarity, also both are multi position rods. I would stay away from any of the E70xx lo-hydrogen rods like 7016, 7018, 7024. They are just too moisture sensitive and are designed for dissimilar metal welding or cast iron welding. Also contrary to what was said wet lo-hy rods become hi-hydrogen rods and will cause hydrogen induced cracking. When a welder says a rod is wet we don't mean dunking it in water, humidity can be enough to ruin a 70xx rod. PVC pipe with screw on cap is not a good enough seal from moisture I have tried it and it didn't work on my lo-hy rods. A proper rod holder with an o-ring seal cap is only around $10. Buy your rods in small sealed packages, and leave them sealed until you are going to use them this will help in keeping them fresh and dry. Bezerk and Ironworker gave good advice on equipment. I didn't see welding gloves, canvas welding sleeves, or a small sharp pick mentioned in your welding kit. The pick is good for picking out slag stuck in a hole or pocket that the hammer or brush can't get to before laying a second bead. Keep it simple only carry one or two rod types and two sizes 1/8, 3/32 no need for a big selection on a temporary trail repair, plus you are limited on your amperage when it comes to running larger rods. 3/32 rod will weld up to 1/4" and 1/8" rod will weld heavier yet, so plenty of rod for frame and steering links etc. Now if you were making more permanent base camp type repairs that is a little different when it comes to rod selection.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 04:48 AM   #51
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If you mean me (Jerry), thank you very much! I dunno what "goodies" you are throwing in there but whatever they are in addition to the googles, I can only say I will return the favor some day. Thank you!
oops..typed in a hurry and left...lol..yea i meant you Jerry
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Unread 08-18-2010, 11:10 AM   #52
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Thanks again guys and yes gloves will be in my kit. I'll definitely be sticking (ha probably literally too) with 6xxx rods and that's a good idea to keep them unopened in the bag and sealed in an o-ringed container. I didn't know the PVC wouldn't keep them dry enough so thanks for the suggestion to use the o-ringed container.

It'll be an adventure learning to stick weld well enough to do emergency trail repairs when all else has failed, my welding is limited to MIG which is much easier to do.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 04:21 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
It'll be an adventure learning to stick weld well enough to do emergency trail repairs when all else has failed, my welding is limited to MIG which is much easier to do.
The real beauty of a emergency trail weld is that it can be ugly, crack, break again and be almost worthless..and you can always blame it on the poor conditions.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 06:35 PM   #54
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If you can take some SMAW courses at a local College, you will learn the proper methods and not be as likely to pick up bad habits. It is not hard, just requires practice and proper technique because you have to watch your gap, angle of the rod, as well as watch the puddle. Essentially in MIG you only need to watch the puddle. I love SMAW, O/A, and TIG because they require more hand eye coordination than MIG. To me MIG is boring, but they all have their place.
LOL at solarpower, the opposite is true as well. When a trail weld holds up really well you have extra bragging rights because of the adverse conditions in which you adapted and overcame.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 06:55 PM   #55
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I've looked into a stick welding course at my local 2yr college but I get off work too late now to get there in time. I'll have a friend who is a stick welding guru teach me the basics. I'll probably go through a few sticks in my garage ahead of time just for grins. Since all this is strictly for pure emergencies on the trail when no one else has a welder, I figure this will be better than nothing or like me having to use a chain to hold something in place like I ended up having to do for a friend a few weeks ago... the impetus for all of this.
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Unread 08-19-2010, 09:13 AM   #56
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In my honest opinion; unless you want to go to school for it and spend the money, stick welding isn't that tough to need a class going over it. If you have a individual who can teach you the basics than all you need is scrap metal and time. Especially if you have experience in the other relms of welding. Now this is where I may get SLAPPED for this one, but I have had all on-the-job experience with stick welding and no certs or class room instruction. For that being said their aren't that many variables when it comes to stick like MIG and TIG would.

P.S. I'm a money pincher, I don't spend it unless I really need to.
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Unread 08-19-2010, 10:14 AM   #57
Jerry Bransford
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Thanks for the reassurance KJFactor, that's what I figured about the stick welding. Between me at least knowing how to MIG weld and having a friend to show me the basics for stick, I think all that will be fine since this is for nothing more than emergency trail repairs when no one has an actual onboard welder.
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Unread 08-30-2010, 01:42 PM   #58
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My Hybrid welder works (a Mig welder running off of 24v)

Ill work up a write up after I get back from my current trip on the dusy. Here are some pictures of the welds that I did. Its bascially what a ready welder is but without the price tag. My cost (not including the old welder) was just about $35 in parts, the rest I had laying around. Below is the list of what you would need if you were to start from scratch.

Total cost
1. Harbor freight 90 amp welder This was my first welder, but it had outlived its usefulness as I got a better machine. Frequently on sale for $90
2. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) motor speed control ($25)
3. Jumper Cables ($15)
4. Plastic Home Depot tool Box ($8)
5. Battery Disconnect Switch ($4)

24v .030 flux core wire

Also did some with 24v and .035 flux core wire but no pics of that, It seemed to transfer the heat even better into the metal.

The Top Picture is 100% off of the battery welder, with no wirebrush
The Second picutre, only the 2 horizontal welds are from the welder, wirebrushed just to get the brown stuff off. Looks like I am getting good penetration from the welder. It welds much better than the 90a harbor freight special ever did.

Now here is to hoping I will never need the thing
img_0232.jpg   img_0231.jpg  
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Unread 08-30-2010, 10:00 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by IronMaiden View Post
You should look into a weldernator instead.

Much more compact and plenty of output. All you need is a second alternator and some other odds and ends.
I had to look that up and found something about it ..

On-Board Welder

Looks like an awesome idea - I might just have to do that!!!
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Unread 08-30-2010, 10:06 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlocktk View Post
My Hybrid welder works (a Mig welder running off of 24v)

Ill work up a write up after I get back from my current trip on the dusy. Here are some pictures of the welds that I did. Its bascially what a ready welder is but without the price tag. My cost (not including the old welder) was just about $35 in parts, the rest I had laying around. Below is the list of what you would need if you were to start from scratch.

Total cost
1. Harbor freight 90 amp welder This was my first welder, but it had outlived its usefulness as I got a better machine. Frequently on sale for $90
2. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) motor speed control ($25)
3. Jumper Cables ($15)
4. Plastic Home Depot tool Box ($8)
5. Battery Disconnect Switch ($4)

24v .030 flux core wire

Also did some with 24v and .035 flux core wire but no pics of that, It seemed to transfer the heat even better into the metal.

The Top Picture is 100% off of the battery welder, with no wirebrush
The Second picutre, only the 2 horizontal welds are from the welder, wirebrushed just to get the brown stuff off. Looks like I am getting good penetration from the welder. It welds much better than the 90a harbor freight special ever did.

Now here is to hoping I will never need the thing
I have a HF 90amp doing nothing in my garage. If you could take some pictures of the setup that would be awesome, I have lots of free time to tinker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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