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Unread 08-14-2010, 03:47 PM   #31
Jerry Bransford
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That's what I was planning on doing bryanm. I'll throw some desiccate in there too if I can find some.

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Unread 08-14-2010, 10:28 PM   #32
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I've seen #10 darkness welding goggles on the trail that was suitable for arc welding but I stopped by a local Airgas shop and they didn't have any. The darkest they had was a #5 shade, then the Airgas salesguy tried to give me a lecture on why they aren't made.
I've looked on eBay but I'm not finding what I'm looking for, all I see there are really cheap goggles with an elastic strap that looks like it would stretch within a few uses. Where can I get some decent quality goggles that are dark enough for arc? I realize I'd have to protect my face/neck to avoid radiation burns but that's doable.
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Unread 08-14-2010, 11:39 PM   #33
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You can pickup some cutting goggles at a welding supply that use the same filter plate as a welding hood the 2X4" and you can put any filter darkness you want in them even the auto dark that are arc ray powered. I always changed the elastic to surgical tubing
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Unread 08-14-2010, 11:47 PM   #34
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Ah heck, that's the perfect answer Bryanm! Too simple, thanks!!
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Unread 08-15-2010, 07:54 AM   #35
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I have a few pairs of the square type cutting goggles that any shade welding filter plate can be put in in them..PM me if you want one ,i'll send to you for free,i never use them anymore..i need a magnifier with my ole eyes..lol..so i just use my auto hoods with the grinding or torch mode to cut with anymore.I'll even include a pair of the Huntsman Solera auto lens that will fit inside them..these are just the same exact size as a standard fixed lens but is auto and a shade 10-11,depending on the arc brightness.

I'll also dig around and see if i still have an old leather type welding hood,that'd probably be a good setup crawling under a vehicle on the trail with limited space.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 10:23 AM   #36
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Thank you very much Ironworker709, PM sent! That auto lens will be especially helpful since its usually pretty cramped when welding underneath someone's Jeep on the trail.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 10:52 AM   #37
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I used 7018 because my dad who I apprenticed under used it as his choice wire, with 30 years of experience. I have run 7018 with the rod wet, if you don't have it in a sealed rod tub. A nice trick to dry it out is to stick it to the piece and let the current dry it out you can actually watch the rod change color and dry out. The low hydrogen makes the weld more flexible then brittle.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 10:53 AM   #38
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Just saw this post and wanted to put my 2 cents in. I played with battery welding about 20 odd years ago. The guys I ran with and myself would break things pretty regularly.

Hooking up battery's (on the ground) with jumper cables was fun till the clamps started melting into the posts. Next I made some cables using eyes and bolting them to the batteries.

The next problem was heat. 3 batteries melted quarter plate fast, 2 was better but still hot, 1 obviously didn't work at all (still had to try). 2 was what I ended up using.

After a few years I started making alternator welders. That's what I use now Their simple, easy to build and you can use 1 or have a second as a dedicated welder. If you want you can add a plug and have enough dc voltage ( 90-100) to run a small grinder. (single speed motors dont care).

In my "welding kit" I have rectangle torch goggles with #10 lens, stinger, ground cables and gloves. My rod is in a 2 inch pvc pipe with screw on caps. You have to keep the rod still inside the tube because the flux gets knocked off over time. I wrap them with a rag. Ironworker's leather helmet was what I still havent gotten around to using. I really need to get one. Even with a hat and scarf protecting, I still get burned.

As for not being able to use the factory tj alternator because of the pcm regulating it, as soon as I get back from my trip next week im converting mine. Because the pcm regulates it, it should be easier to convert than a normal internal regulated. My only concern is the rectifiers, their not suppose to be the "avalanche" type, if they are then I have to replace those with none.

Last edited by zooby; 08-15-2010 at 02:20 PM..
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Unread 08-15-2010, 01:55 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
Ain't the 6010 & 6011 pretty much the same?
6010 was made for DC. 6011 was made for AC but will work on DC (according to the welding rod chart when I took welder/fitter course back in '80)
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Unread 08-15-2010, 09:34 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBass View Post
I used 7018 because my dad who I apprenticed under used it as his choice wire, with 30 years of experience. I have run 7018 with the rod wet, if you don't have it in a sealed rod tub. A nice trick to dry it out is to stick it to the piece and let the current dry it out you can actually watch the rod change color and dry out. The low hydrogen makes the weld more flexible then brittle.
you are aware that you have to bake 7018 at something like 200 degrees for 3 hours to dry it out??
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Unread 08-16-2010, 01:19 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by yea_mitch View Post
you are aware that you have to bake 7018 at something like 200 degrees for 3 hours to dry it out??
In the ideal situation yeah it should be put in an oven. I've passed 4g tests with cold wire before. The only problem I've ever had is when it was to cold to get enough heat in the metal outside but were taking about very large metal in the dead of winter.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 01:55 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by yea_mitch View Post
you are aware that you have to bake 7018 at something like 200 degrees for 3 hours to dry it out??
I thought it wasn't even recommended to bake 7018 to dry it and it's suggested to throw it away after it gets damp.

Maybe thats in a perfect world though.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 06:00 PM   #43
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Quote:
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I thought it wasn't even recommended to bake 7018 to dry it and it's suggested to throw it away after it gets damp.

Maybe thats in a perfect world though.
There's no thought about it..lol...once the flux on 7018 is wet..it's no good..you may get it dry enough to weld again but the weld will have loads of perosity in it because the coating will not do it's job at keeping the impurities out of the weld once its been wet.

6010 is more forgiving,it has a very light coating of flux on it and won't suck up moisture as easy.Plus since it's a thin coat..it won't bust off as easy being bounced around in a Jeep.

Joe..when you make the rod container..pick up some scrap foam lining used in packaging..wrap the rods in that before putting in the rod container,it will help soften the ride so to speak,plus may help soak up any moisture.
Also get a couple of those moisture packets you see in packaging to help suck up any moisture and put in there..if the rod container gets hot in the sun or close to a heat source it might cause moisture inside from condensation.

I'm gatherin up you're lil package as we speak Joe..will let you know when it's shipped,will have a few more goodies in there for ya too that we get for free at work.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 09:42 PM   #44
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I just want to add that if you cover your welding sticks in wax (candle wax works) it allows the stick to keep dry until you use it. Just scrap off the end and go to work and the rest melts off. Slight trick I picked up. Underwater welding allows you to keep your rods dry or dry-er when using them.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 11:57 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
I'm gatherin up you're lil package as we speak Joe..will let you know when it's shipped,will have a few more goodies in there for ya too that we get for free at work.
If you mean me (Jerry), thank you very much! I dunno what "goodies" you are throwing in there but whatever they are in addition to the googles, I can only say I will return the favor some day. Thank you!
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