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Unread 10-11-2012, 10:12 AM   #1
bigt2317
Mall Crawler
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Leander, TX
Posts: 411
Opinions on full roll cage in LJ

I'm having a local fab shop put a custom cage in my LJ in a couple of weeks and I'm wanting to give them a little direction on how I want it. They do a lot of fab work on their own off road racing team as well as for other teams so they do know how to fab so I'm not worried about them building it wrong. It seems like the majority of full replacement cages somewhat mirror each other in their designs and if anyone here has input on little things to add or watch out for, that would be great.

Here are a few pics that I'll give them to look at:




I went over a list of things with them and will do so again when I drop the LJ off, so far a few things I'm thinking about are:

- has to work with my hard top and factory soft top, this includes the door surrounds and soft top mounts on B pillar

- I'd like the factory overhead speaker pods to mount up and work

- the A pillar down tubes will go through the dash and not have the angle steel around the dash

- I want at least 2 grab handles, a driver and passenger side one. Maybe one on the lower windshield bar? (like the genright one on the blue jeep)

- I like the 2 parallel bars in the center going from windshield to B pillar bar, they are going to incorporate my CB mount there overhead

As of right now I will not be putting in seat mounts or a harness bar since the backseat gets used all the time by my 2 year old son.


The main reason for my going this route is by the time I added up the cost for buying, lets say, a poison spider trail cage, rear spreader bar and upgraded header bars I'd be around the $800+ mark and still have to weld it up, paint and install. I could get a lazer cut cage for $1,100 + shipping, thin I'd still have to weld it, paint and install. I'm getting a full on 6 point cage built from scratch for about $1,500 and all I have to do is drop it off.

I wouldn't mind building one from scratch since I can weld and do have a bender I can use but with a 2 year old son my time is very limited.

If anyone has any suggestions, opinions, comments, etc. about adding to or tweaking these cage designs lets hear it!

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Unread 10-13-2012, 09:26 PM   #2
G Beasley
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Eden, NC
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The Poison Spider cage looks good , I just dont care for the angle stanchions . I like the tube through the dash , though it does take away a little footroom so thats something to consider .



This is what I came up with . It takes much longer than you think it will , so a shop is nice if you dont have the time and do have the money . When I make my new cage there are a few things I am going to change / add . The first thing will be to use 1.25 for the lower dash bar so that it will sit lower . The dash bar doesnt obstruct my vision a lot , but its enough that I will try the slightly smaller od tubing next time . I am also going to move the rear spreader a little farther down , which will push it back away from taller passengers heads . I could do what Poison Spider does with the rear , but I wanted the option of running a frameless top in the future . Lastly I will drill and sleeve the holes for the door surrounds . I have had issues with them sliding back and allowing wind to infiltrate . My temporary solution was to drill two holes and use a small bolt to hold the top in place . The grab handle mostly keeps it in place , but the bolt locks it in the forward position .
Good luck with your decision , if you have any other questions feel free to ask .
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Unread 10-15-2012, 09:36 AM   #3
bigt2317
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Leander, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
The Poison Spider cage looks good , I just dont care for the angle stanchions . I like the tube through the dash , though it does take away a little footroom so thats something to consider .

I could do what Poison Spider does with the rear , but I wanted the option of running a frameless top in the future . Lastly I will drill and sleeve the holes for the door surrounds . I have had issues with them sliding back and allowing wind to infiltrate . My temporary solution was to drill two holes and use a small bolt to hold the top in place . The grab handle mostly keeps it in place , but the bolt locks it in the forward position .
Good luck with your decision , if you have any other questions feel free to ask .
Thanks for the reply. I'm definitely going through the dash to the floor. I got to thinking about the X brace on the B pillar yesterday. Can you make it removable? I've seen removable tube clamps like : http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...lamp-p-66.html

I could get 4 sets of these, weld in the connector pieces to the B pillar hoop then remove the "X" bars when driving around town and getting my son in and out a lot then bolt them in when we go wheeling. I don't see a issue with strength too much since the forces on the "X" bar travel down the tube and not from the side.

Is my thinking correct?
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Unread 10-15-2012, 08:45 PM   #4
G Beasley
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Location: Eden, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigt2317 View Post
Thanks for the reply. I'm definitely going through the dash to the floor. I got to thinking about the X brace on the B pillar yesterday. Can you make it removable? I've seen removable tube clamps like : http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...lamp-p-66.html

I could get 4 sets of these, weld in the connector pieces to the B pillar hoop then remove the "X" bars when driving around town and getting my son in and out a lot then bolt them in when we go wheeling. I don't see a issue with strength too much since the forces on the "X" bar travel down the tube and not from the side.

Is my thinking correct?
I wasnt a fan of the clamp on cages , but the few pictures I have seen of them after they rolled surprised me as they look like they held up well . When I was making my cage I considered door bars and a diagonal but in the end I decided against it . Theres no debating the strength added with an X but I didnt want to deal with getting in and out over the extra tubing .
Getting the kids in and out is tough now , I didnt want to make it worse .
I have rolled and flopped in the past , and I replaced the cages each time as I consider the cage to be a consumable . You can make a cage strong enough that it wont shift or bend , but I like the cage to absorb some of the hit .
Everyone has a different theory or philosophy on cages , whats important is that you end up with a cage you feel safe in .
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