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Unread 07-19-2013, 05:05 PM   #1
Dumpsterfish
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Operation Slip n Slide: My first Jeep fab project

OK, so I set up the JD2 Model 3, got the 1.75" round die ordered (should ship today ), and I had the day off today...

Time to start in on the rock sliders for my JKU.

The plan is to build the sliders and stanchions out of 2" .188 wall square HREW, the frame rail mounts out of some 1/4"x4"x4" angle I have laying around, and make rub rails out of round .120 wall 1.5" dom. Off to the metal store...



How to keep the front edges of the 10ft sticks from messing with my dashboard? hmm...



Got everything back to the shop, cut down the tubing, and cut out my frame rail mounts. Ready for assembly:



You can see some triangles I cut up for gussets, but I don't really like how they turned out using the cutoff wheel. Thinking I may just bite the bullet and order some.

Managed to get one of the frame mounts welded together, a work of weld spatter-art:



Well, that's it for today. Hope to have some more progress this weekend.

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Unread 07-19-2013, 05:19 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumpsterfish
How to keep the front edges of the 10ft sticks from messing with my dashboard? hmm...
You just leave em at 20ft and roof em!
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Unread 07-19-2013, 05:41 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtTheHelm

You just leave em at 20ft and roof em!
Nice! They were already cut on the rack, bit that's a good one
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Unread 07-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #4
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Had clients in shop today, so no time to do much, but I did manage to test out a few practice MIG welds on 3/16

We only have 110 MiG in house, so I was planning on going FCAW, but that spatter is bugging me. So here are a few passes:

Push technique, 1/8" bevel

image-2352883118.jpg



image-2234569636.jpg

Drag technique, no bevel:



image-3956332497.jpg



image-3924452240.jpg

To my untrained (well, barely trained) eye, these look about the same, penetration-wise.

Any seasoned pros wanna weigh in on whether I'd be crazy to trust the health of my body tub to beads like these?
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Unread 07-20-2013, 07:00 PM   #5
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Really not that bad,fluxcore is a different animal,stop dipping in out of the puddle,weaving,,etc....run one consistant hot pass.
That will eleiminate your spatter,plus its a bad idea to whip and dip fluxcore,you are running over slag and creating possble slag inclusions or pockets underneath and it aslo one the main reasons why you are getting spatter.

Practice some more and do a just little drag,no pushing...keep practicing a consistant steady pass and as doing so, watch the stick out and you'll find that "sweet spot" where it runs nice and smooth and no spatter
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Unread 07-20-2013, 07:19 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tips. Will give flux another couple tries Monday.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 07:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709
watch the stick out and you'll find that "sweet spot" where it runs nice and smooth and no spatter
If I may once more mine your expertise, sir...what's a good stick out for this application? The spatterific passes made yesterday were at about 1/2"
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Unread 07-21-2013, 08:58 AM   #8
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1/2" to 3/4"..fluxcore likes to have a longer stick out then MIG generaly does.

Experiment with the stick out and wire speed settings,If your wire speed is off,it will also cause a lot of spatter,if the wire speed is too slow,it'll spatter all over the place because it is arcing long outside of the puddle,plus only leave a surface fusion at most instead of a good burn in and penetration into the base metal.

If it's too fast it'll actualy cause a cold burn because it's trying to arc inside the puddle,and that will cause it to spit and sputter and ;eave a lot of spatter too.

Every machine runs a lil different,depending mostly on the power source to the machine,short/long extension cords,the longer it is,the less actual amperage your machine will have,different filler wires will also run different from brand to brand and size to size and type to type.

There is no real exact speed,heat settings..stick outs..etc as an all for one setting,you have to use some scrap to get your machine set in that "sweet spot" according the variations of the power source,wire type and what you are welding.

Get a bunch of scrap and don't be scared to try a bunch of different variations to find that sweet spot and best technique for the machine
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Unread 07-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #9
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As usual, an informative and helpful response. Thanks!
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Unread 07-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #10
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Not much to report, just changed the design for the frame mounts, gonna use the existing body mount bolts for hardware. Grabbed some 2x3 cutoffs. Will post pics as things progress.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 10:58 PM   #11
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Worlds slowest fab project...got the pilot holes marked and cut on the frame mounts:



image-3490485825.jpg

A ton of noise and cutting fluid later, the mounts are cut and ready to be welded up.



image-1244536930.jpg

And we got a couple new toys in the shop:



image-362847096.jpg



image-3261525438.jpg

So I'm hoping to pick up the pace on this project.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 01:16 AM   #12
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Nice Miller, that puppy will lay it down for you. Make sure your polarity is right for the fcaw and then don't forget to switch it back when migw. Wrong polarity using flux core will cause extreme spatter sometimes that just can't be tamed. Some call for dc+, some dc-. Some machines have an inductance range, go low on Flux and high on mig, wait I may have that backwards. Look it up for your specific wire AWS rating.

PS, I see "auto set" on the Miller, if you can get 220v, use it. It gets you out of the play/hobby range and will do some long welds and higher duty cycle. The stinker about 110 is the transformers (inverters now) can't keep up and your weld fades after a few seconds of welding, frustrating.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #13
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Yeah, the 211 is awesome. I set it up for 220, MIG on 3/16 is no longer an issue...
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Unread 08-30-2013, 09:05 AM   #14
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What's the design going to be like... Any particular slider that you're replicating?
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Unread 08-30-2013, 10:02 AM   #15
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In terms of overall shape, they'll look kinda like white knuckle fab sliders. The mounts will be based on the ace engineering setup, with the addition of tabs to secure the rails to both the frame and the tub.
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