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FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon Zip

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Unread 01-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #16
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlrubicon05 View Post
have you considered re-using that axle and doing something like this

http://www.wildyoats.com/off_road_trailer_build.htm

seems simple enough right? I've been doing some research on doing a similar project and an axle with a 5 lug 4.5" hub would cost be around 300. Looks like you scored a deal
That was actually the very first trailer build I found. I modeled my original design after it. I will build something similar to it eventually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jafo1
Great looking project you got going on. Can't wait til I can build/re-build my own trailer like this. BTW what model Hobart welder you got?

thanks for posting your project.
Its a Hobart Handler 140. 3/16s is about its max. 1/4 with 2 passes. It does just fine for the little projects I take on. Ill eventually move up to a 220V model.

Ive got about 1/2 of the trailer steel stripped and painted. its coming along slowly. I should have some more pics up by this weekend. Parts should start rolling in too. We're selling our house and just got an offer. That may speed things up a bit....

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Unread 01-25-2011, 05:58 PM   #17
Pikes_Peak_Trailers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fropleyquark View Post
That was actually the very first trailer build I found. I modeled my original design after it. I will build something similar to it eventually.



Its a Hobart Handler 140. 3/16s is about its max. 1/4 with 2 passes. It does just fine for the little projects I take on. Ill eventually move up to a 220V model.

Ive got about 1/2 of the trailer steel stripped and painted. its coming along slowly. I should have some more pics up by this weekend. Parts should start rolling in too. We're selling our house and just got an offer. That may speed things up a bit....
Cool thread John. I will be checking in.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 06:28 AM   #18
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikes_Peak_Trailers View Post
Cool thread John. I will be checking in.
Thanks Dave! Wont be anything like your trailers but itll be good until I can build one from scratch. I did get the fist clamp idea from you though!

Here's a few pics of progress. Nothing exciting. Got most of the frame stripped and repainted. Had to cut the bolts off the spring hangers. The PO welded the nuts. In an effort to keep this as a low budget project, Ill be soaking the leafs in a rust remover instead of replacing them. Im debating on replacing the axle bearings. I have no idea how worn they are. The wheels dont wobble and spin freely though. Ill probably pop open the caps and take a look.

On a side note, rustoleum is awesome stuff!




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Unread 01-26-2011, 09:47 AM   #19
Netpackrat
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Absolutely replace the bearings. Carry a spare set plus some grease.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 05:47 PM   #20
Fropleyqk
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Originally Posted by Netpackrat View Post
Absolutely replace the bearings. Carry a spare set plus some grease.
I think youre right.

Anyone got any tips for getting the bearing caps off the ends of the axle without destroying them? (The little tin cap things). Ive been trying to tap the smallest flathead I have behind them but no go. I even tried tapping on them gently on the sides but they just cave.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 06:03 PM   #21
Fropleyqk
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Little more progress today. Finished stripping and painting all the metal. Got the leafs off. Trying to figure out how to get the bearing caps off the ends of the axle. I need to soak the leafs in rust remover or blast them with my new sand blaster before theyll get paint. I also ordered about 40' of 2" flat stock. Ill use it to brace all the wood and build the tailgate and anything else I can think of.

pics:





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Unread 01-26-2011, 07:15 PM   #22
4bangerYJ
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I grab that dust cap with a pair of channel locks. Work it back and forth until it pops off.

It's coming along nicely!
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Unread 01-26-2011, 09:02 PM   #23
Broncbuster
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Looking good. I finished my trailer build a few weeks back. Been great so far. I have not had to drive my dually as much with diesel $3.25 a gal. Camped in it 3x so far. Good luck.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 10:15 PM   #24
Netpackrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fropleyqk View Post
Anyone got any tips for getting the bearing caps off the ends of the axle without destroying them? (The little tin cap things). Ive been trying to tap the smallest flathead I have behind them but no go. I even tried tapping on them gently on the sides but they just cave.
I wouldn't worry about destroying them; usually a bearing set will include new dust caps. Consider investing in a pair of bearing buddies, especially if you will be doing water crossings. At the very least, it simplifies keeping your bearings greased.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 11:20 PM   #25
Pikes_Peak_Trailers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fropleyqk View Post
Little more progress today. Finished stripping and painting all the metal. Got the leafs off. Trying to figure out how to get the bearing caps off the ends of the axle. I need to soak the leafs in rust remover or blast them with my new sand blaster before theyll get paint. I also ordered about 40' of 2" flat stock. Ill use it to brace all the wood and build the tailgate and anything else I can think of.

pics:






John - one thought, that leaf pack might be a bit stiff. The 3,000 lb axles I use come with a three leaf spring pack and I end up taking 2 of them out (I give them to the clients). With a single leaf in the spring pack, it is strong enough to carry the trailer and several hundred lbs of weight while still having some articulation when empty. When there are two or three leaves, she will not flex as my trailers are too light and they end up just hopping over bumps.

Your springs may be softer, but I thought I would pass it along. Also, I use these as bump stops - cheap and easy insurance against the axle traveling too far. They come in pairs and the last dozen I have ordered have been in black (not red). I weld the nut to the frame and then screw in the urethane stop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB5OK/ref=wms_ohs_product
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Unread 01-27-2011, 03:04 AM   #26
timatoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netpackrat View Post
I wouldn't worry about destroying them; usually a bearing set will include new dust caps. Consider investing in a pair of bearing buddies, especially if you will be doing water crossings. At the very least, it simplifies keeping your bearings greased.
I agree, new caps are cheap and plentiful, you can even get them at WalMart back in the fishing area.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 09:23 AM   #27
Fropleyqk
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Thanks guys for all the input

Dave - Good idea about the leafs. I never really thought about it. I was also considering adding my old stock shocks from the LJ. Not sure if thatd be a good idea or even needed.

4bangerYJ/Netpackrat/timatoe - You're right. I picked up a couple caps from HF today. Also got 2 bearing kits. Im not sure what size bearings I need since I havent pulled the old ones out yet. They had 1" and 1 1/4", I bought em both. Hopefully 1 will fit and Ill return the other.

Today Ill have the axle completely torn apart, cleaned and re-painted. If the bearings fit, theyll go in too. I also plan to blast the rims and re-paint if everything goes as well as its going to in my head.

On a side note, I took the wheels to Goodyear a minute ago to pull the tires off the rims (I tried to do that in my garage , that wasnt happening) and they did it for free. Not sure if it was because I was in uniform or not, but that was very cool. They even disposed of the old tires for me.

Oh! And forgot to mention, yesterday while I was cleaning the tongue, I cleaned off the data plate. Not sure if its been overhauled since then but the date on it was 1991! That seems about right though.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 05:59 PM   #28
Fropleyqk
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Got quite a bit done today with a bunch of pics:

Rims before TLC with a wire wheel



After wire wheel



Painted



I do like that the rims came with these:



Axle stripped down and painted



Parts soaking in rust cleanser stuff



These were the highlight of the day. 33x12.5x15 Dunlaps>$60 for both Theyre not perfect and Id never put them on my Jeep but theyre perfect for a trailer! About 35% tread (unevenly worn) left




New Fenders



Leafs stripped



Starting re-assembly





I imagine itll be done in the next week or 2. I dont get to work on it on weekends so a few hours a day should take about that long. I did get new wheel bearings today but theyre were the wrong size. On a plus note, Im pretty sure the current bearings were replaced not too long ago. I pulled apart one of the hubs and the grease was basically brand new, bearing seal was perfect and the bearings were shiney (after being wiped off) and had no play. Im probably going to order a replacement set but keep the current ones in the hubs.

Also, during reassembly, Ill be bolting everything together as it was originally built then welding it to make it permanent. The only parts of the frame that wont be welded will be the top overhang. I want to be able to replace the wood at a later day (or if the price is right, the new owner can replace the wood at a later date!) Its looking like after everything is all said and done, this will have cost between $500-$600 with the original cost of the trailer included. Im pretty happy with it so far.
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Unread 01-28-2011, 05:22 AM   #29
Fropleyqk
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OK another stupid question. I meansured the inside diameter of the bearings. Each side needs a 1 3/8 and 1 1/16 ID bearing. When Im searching around Im finding bearing kits that say 1-3/8x1-1/16. What does that mean? Are there 2 different sized bearings or is one measurement ID and the other OD?

edit: nevermind. Looks like I have a #84 spindle. Found a kit.
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Unread 01-28-2011, 07:39 AM   #30
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What fenders are those? I like the looks of them...
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