Im still relatively new. I've had my Hobart Handler 210 for a little less than a year now and havnt welded too much with it yet up until recently. I had a Hobart Handler 140 for about a month before the 210 but sold it because I wanted to be able to weld thicker than 1/4"
One of my first successful welds with my Hobart 140 with 1/4" steel. This thing passed the hammer test with flying colors
One of my first welds with my Hobart 210 with 1/4" steel. One heating setting above ^^^^
One of my first decent looking vertical uphill welds. I have the wirespeed turned down a good amount. I realize I need to pause slightly on the sides more.
Another vertical uphill practice weld. Don't mind the weld on the left, I was experimenting with different wire speeds and they were too high and the weld globbed up. The one on the right was with a wire speed i was comfortable with. I am still working on my uphill technique, and realize I have some undercut on the sides but oh well.
You're doing a pretty good job! It's good that you're practicing uphill vertical welding. Many guys weld their vertical downhill...BAD IDEA!
You want to make sure that your metal is ground shiny clean, no rust, mill scale, etc.
For vertical-up short arc welding, I turn my heat down, considerably. So, if I was welding 1/4" steel in the vertical-up position, I might set the machine at the setting that I might weld 1/8" thick steel with, in the flat position. This is just a basic guideline.
Vertical welds, done uphill properly, are among the strongest welds out there. So, although the machine settings are lower for vertical than for other positions, there will be adequate penetration. Vertical-up welding is typically a little slower process than flat welding, and deposits a fairly meaty bead.
It also takes quite a bit of practice to master. Try widening your beads a little more than what you've been doing. Like you said, you have to hold the sides a bit longer. I weave across the middle fairly rapidly, but not so fast that you "leave the puddle". If you weave across the middle too slowly, the crown of the bead will be high. The middle of the bead sort of gets "double metal", because of the weaving.
So....establish the weld, weave to one side...hold it for about 2 seconds. weave across and upwards on a slight diagonal, at a fairly fast pace, to the opposite side...hold it for about 2 seconds. Continue on like this for the length of the run of the bead.
These are just basic guidelines. The machine settings, amount of "side hold", and the speed of weaving "across the middle", as well as how much diagonal spacing between the weaves, are what will determine the appearance of the bead. I forgot to mention that the angle of the mig gun. It has to be angled upward, about 15 - 20 degrees from being "horizontally level".
There's no substitute for practice! It's a very rewarding feling when you finally master "vertical-up"!