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post #31 of Old 01-25-2011, 06:11 PM
Pikes_Peak_Trailers
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My welds, nor my triceps, are as nice as the OP but here goes.

These are all FCAW, no Gas, .030, often done outside, 1/8 steel. These were all done using a Hobart 125. Now using an Ironman 230, still no gas.





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post #32 of Old 01-25-2011, 06:15 PM
red rubi
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I can see I'm going to have to get some practice in once it gets a little warmer. Looks good guys!
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post #33 of Old 01-25-2011, 06:30 PM
Pikes_Peak_Trailers
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Here are my faves, in nor particular order. These are not mine - I lifted them from previous posts. I am inspired by this kind of work.
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post #34 of Old 01-25-2011, 06:34 PM
Pikes_Peak_Trailers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krochus View Post
I predict much awesomeness to be contained in this thread

after SAW with a Lincoln LN9/DC600 combo


IIRC this one was what was going on in the first pic FCAW-G Miller dimension 652




What I wish I had a pic of was the welds I was making a year ago that attached the lateral stiffeners to the top flange for the cable anchor assemblies on the Missouri Paseo cable stay bridge. Picture a a stack of passes 8" high on a handweld weld that would take appx 30lbs of electrode to make
Can you describe, or point me to resources that discuss/detail using multi-pass to increase strength? In other words, instead of just running another bead on top or contiguous, what are the strategies to produce the strongest weld when multi-passing. If I were in a class, I would ask:

1) Should you run the first and subsequent beads at the same power/speed?
2) Is there a geographic strategy to where you lay the initial and subsequent beads?
3) etc.

My interest in this topic is primarily for strength, not aesthetics.

Thanks.
Dave.

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post #35 of Old 01-25-2011, 06:59 PM
EricRollerSkate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Here are some pics of MIG welding...









A few TIG shots...













TIG welding brass...NASTY!!!









Esab MigMaster 250.

Thermal Dynamics 300 GTSW.

Rich

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post #36 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:12 PM
stuff2c
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damn! any of you fancy welders live in orlando? and do you want to practice on my 8.8 brackets? cuz my welds SUCK!!!

Thanks to the interstate highway system... most people don't see nut'n in the USA.
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post #37 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:12 PM
Krochus
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Quote:
Can you describe, or point me to resources that discuss/detail using multi-pass to increase strength? In other words, instead of just running another bead on top or contiguous, what are the strategies to produce the strongest weld when multi-passing. If I were in a class, I would ask:
I've never seen multiple passes employed for any other reason than to achieve the desired weld size or volume. For example as per our specified weld procedure you can make no larger than a 5/16" fillet in a single pass using FCAW-G or SMAW, 5/16 fillets are most common but 3/8 or even 1/2 aren't unheard of.

Now the welds above are a bit diffrent in that they're a "full penetration" weld. Meaning the members to be joined are welded homogeneously throughout 100% of the joint thickness. This odviously takes more than one pass.

So to answer you'd specific questions the answers are yes.

Think Green recycle your YJ's sway and trac bars today!

Quote:
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"Jeep Wave threads, it's a newb thing, you wouldn't understand!"
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post #38 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:13 PM
Krochus
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Quote:
Can you describe, or point me to resources that discuss/detail using multi-pass to increase strength? In other words, instead of just running another bead on top or contiguous, what are the strategies to produce the strongest weld when multi-passing. If I were in a class, I would ask:
I've never seen multiple passes employed for any other reason than to achieve the desired weld size or volume. For example as per our specified weld procedure you can make no larger than a 5/16" fillet in a single pass using FCAW-G or SMAW, 5/16 fillets are most common but 3/8 or even 1/2 aren't unheard of.

Now the welds above are a bit diffrent in that they're a "full penetration" weld. Meaning the members to be joined are welded homogeneously throughout 100% of the joint thickness. This odviously takes more than one pass.

So to answer you'd specific questions the answers are yes.

Think Green recycle your YJ's sway and trac bars today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by buickgnx88 View Post
"Jeep Wave threads, it's a newb thing, you wouldn't understand!"
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post #39 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:35 PM
mferrari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuff2c View Post
damn! any of you fancy welders live in orlando? and do you want to practice on my 8.8 brackets? cuz my welds SUCK!!!
How's the weather down that way, if above 70 that may be conviencing enough to come

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post #40 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:52 PM
lumpster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red rubi View Post
The easy answer Ryan, is it depends on which one you get.
I have an M211 which is very similar to the 180. I think they only draw about 25 amps full load.

Many people will run a #10 copper wire on a 30 amp breaker. I legally can't recommend that however, a M180 probably won't burn the house down set up like that either.

For my 211 I ran #8 copper and protected it at 40 amps (I just "happened" to have a nice length of 8/2 nm laying around You're not going to find that at your local Lowes).

The problem with welders is for convenience sake they come wired with a 50 amp plug. You can only put that plug into a 50 amp receptacle. The next guy that comes along, might just say " Gee! big wire, big outlet, big plug, that should work..." Could be a big problem.

Remember 1) the size of the load determines the size of the breaker. 2) The size of the breaker determines the size of the wire.

The real answer is because it's considered a "feeder" an Electrical Inspector would say the breaker needs be sized to the receptacle. The receptacle to the plug it fits, and the wire to the breaker. so that would mean #6 copper* wire and a 50 amp breaker.

* You can use #6 aluminum but I would stay away from that, it can easily be a hazard if installed incorrectly.



You'll be very happy with a M180
I was actually thinking i was going to go with 6 gauge, and 50 amp breaker just ot be on the safe side. sounds like i might have guess right!
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post #41 of Old 01-25-2011, 07:57 PM
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Just foolin around praticing plug welds



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post #42 of Old 01-25-2011, 08:01 PM
wushaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
I was actually thinking i was going to go with 6 gauge, and 50 amp breaker just ot be on the safe side. sounds like i might have guess right!
Yes that is a wise decision.
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post #43 of Old 01-25-2011, 08:28 PM
underpowered
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need to get some pics with a real camera instead of just my phone.

MIG with .035 wire on a millermatic 210. Not nearly as pretty as others in this thread, but i think i do a decent job. all on 4x4x.250 box tube, beveled edges for a groove fill weld joint




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post #44 of Old 01-25-2011, 08:34 PM
stuff2c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mferrari View Post
How's the weather down that way, if above 70 that may be conviencing enough to come
heck I'll feed ya too... my brides a great cook... 70's all week

Thanks to the interstate highway system... most people don't see nut'n in the USA.
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post #45 of Old 01-25-2011, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
Kenbo-Slice
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