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Unread 01-25-2011, 12:35 AM   #16
Krochus
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I predict much awesomeness to be contained in this thread

I don't really have any pics of some of my more artistic welds but here's a few that I had on my facebook to show folks what I do. I suppose I'll represent the multiple pass and or full penatration weld here

the loose nut behind the stinger


1.75" x 119" before



after SAW with a Lincoln LN9/DC600 combo


IIRC this one was what was going on in the first pic FCAW-G Miller dimension 652




What I wish I had a pic of was the welds I was making a year ago that attached the lateral stiffeners to the top flange for the cable anchor assemblies on the Missouri Paseo cable stay bridge. Picture a a stack of passes 8" high on a handweld weld that would take appx 30lbs of electrode to make

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Unread 01-25-2011, 12:52 AM   #17
Krochus
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anyone up for pics of a little carbon air arc gouging? (sorry for the poor image quality)





here's the axle tubes I welded a couple days ago for a fellow jeeper here using 1/8" E7018 stick and a ac/dc 250 amp Lincoln "little red devil"

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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:37 AM   #18
Kenbo-Slice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
Im no welder, but it doesnt look like the first couple welds penetrated very far, or is the material not very thick? Am i wrong Kenbo?

they are very nice looking welds though.


And just so you dont thing im picking on you, i plan to buy a miller 180 welder with the tax return, if i do get one ill post my nasty welds for you to judge!!!
First pic is .065 tubing, 2nd is 1/8" plate beveled both sides @45deg root welded and filled. There is GOOD penetration haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EZAces View Post
Its easyer to run nice welds with a tig than a mig
or arc welder. don't get me wrong they are very nice welds you just cant
expect them to look the same. A so so looking weld with good penitration is better than beautifull weld with no penitration. He could have good penitration
with those welds, just cant tell with out seeing the other side.
That depends 100% on the individual behind the torch my friend!

For the record those welds are with a Miller synchrowave 250ds.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 06:16 AM   #19
BESRK
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I don't really have very many good pics.. here's one I found floating around. It's a 1/4" thick fairlead mount welded to the top of one of my bumpers.. Miller 210..

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Unread 01-25-2011, 06:42 AM   #20
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Millermatic 180



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Unread 01-25-2011, 11:46 AM   #21
rixcj
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Here are some pics of MIG welding...









A few TIG shots...













TIG welding brass...NASTY!!!









Esab MigMaster 250.

Thermal Dynamics 300 GTSW.

Rich
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Unread 01-25-2011, 01:09 PM   #22
jsc7002
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Nothin' compared to lots of the other welds posted up but here's a picture of a weld I did with my Hobart Handler 140 using .035 FC, welding 3/16" to 3/16".

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Unread 01-25-2011, 01:54 PM   #23
MO2500
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Some of my welds. Hobart 187 MIG with .035 solid. I'm still learning a lot


Overhead and vertical. A lot different for sure. I try to avoid it when I can


Steering box skid


Bumper
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Unread 01-25-2011, 03:59 PM   #24
lumpster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krochus View Post

What I wish I had a pic of was the welds I was making a year ago that attached the lateral stiffeners to the top flange for the cable anchor assemblies on the Missouri Paseo cable stay bridge. Picture a a stack of passes 8" high on a handweld weld that would take appx 30lbs of electrode to make
That is a pretty neat bridge, alot better than the one it replaced!

I cant wait to get a miller 180, i just wish i could afford/justify a miller 212.


I am going to have to run a 220 outlet to the garage, how many amp breaker and big a wire should i use? Its going to be about 35-40 feet from the service box. OT i know
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:11 PM   #25
mferrari
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Mike try out some .030 wire in the 187. I ran 3 spools of .035 then went back to .030 and felt a lot more control of the puddle with the .030.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:22 PM   #26
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
That is a pretty neat bridge, alot better than the one it replaced!

I cant wait to get a miller 180, i just wish i could afford/justify a miller 212.


I am going to have to run a 220 outlet to the garage, how many amp breaker and big a wire should i use? Its going to be about 35-40 feet from the service box. OT i know
I had to wire in my Hobart 187 off our sub panel. It was only about 10 feet from the sub panel but I believe we used 10ga wire with a 30 amp breaker. I believe the minimum requirements were listed in the manual that came with the welder.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mferrari View Post
Mike try out some .030 wire in the 187. I ran 3 spools of .035 then went back to .030 and felt a lot more control of the puddle with the .030.
Thanks Mike, I was thinking of trying .030. I just picked up another 10lb spool of .035 though I haven't used it yet so let me see if I can dig up the receipt lol
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Unread 01-25-2011, 04:54 PM   #28
mferrari
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I feel ya. I think I still have one or two spools of .035 sitting in the shop. It works, but definately more control with the .030.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 05:58 PM   #29
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Lincoln 135 with .035 flux.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 06:08 PM   #30
red rubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post

I cant wait to get a miller 180, i just wish i could afford/justify a miller 212.


I am going to have to run a 220 outlet to the garage, how many amp breaker and big a wire should i use? Its going to be about 35-40 feet from the service box. OT i know
The easy answer Ryan, is it depends on which one you get.
I have an M211 which is very similar to the 180. I think they only draw about 25 amps full load.

Many people will run a #10 copper wire on a 30 amp breaker. I legally can't recommend that however, a M180 probably won't burn the house down set up like that either.

For my 211 I ran #8 copper and protected it at 40 amps (I just "happened" to have a nice length of 8/2 nm laying around You're not going to find that at your local Lowes).

The problem with welders is for convenience sake they come wired with a 50 amp plug. You can only put that plug into a 50 amp receptacle. The next guy that comes along, might just say " Gee! big wire, big outlet, big plug, that should work..." Could be a big problem.

Remember 1) the size of the load determines the size of the breaker. 2) The size of the breaker determines the size of the wire.

The real answer is because it's considered a "feeder" an Electrical Inspector would say the breaker needs be sized to the receptacle. The receptacle to the plug it fits, and the wire to the breaker. so that would mean #6 copper* wire and a 50 amp breaker.

* You can use #6 aluminum but I would stay away from that, it can easily be a hazard if installed incorrectly.



You'll be very happy with a M180
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