The official : "Show off your welds thread" . - Page 17 - JeepForum.com
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post #241 of 786 Old 08-24-2011, 02:53 PM
youngjeepr
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what kind of tig is it? scratch start? thumb control? foot pedal?

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post #242 of 786 Old 08-24-2011, 02:58 PM
DirtyDobber
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foot pedal, and I made the mistake of wearing skecher shape ups on day one. none of my welds were sticking or I was burning stuff up.

"Yes, I used to be a real wild child
But now I am a Jeep-driving soccer mom"
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post #243 of 786 Old 09-09-2011, 09:46 AM
hallway94yj
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Here's one of a weld I put on my truss to the axle tube..
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post #244 of 786 Old 09-09-2011, 05:31 PM
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Well if you want to see mine you can see the slider thread or wait until I get something that is 100% mine, other folks did the welding on those, I was busy cutting and fitting and my buddy was helping with that too so it would be credit for others work if I put it here.

Why bother posting? Because there is a lot of pipe to plate work in this thread that is VERY impressive. I employ several welders and they are all more gifted and talented than I am by far. I got myself certified way back in the 80's and with a bit of warm up I can get it done, but I struggled a LOT with pipe to plate and I know what it takes to develop that talent and just wanted to say kudo's to those posting them up, some seriously respectable talent involved!
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post #245 of 786 Old 09-11-2011, 08:26 PM
youngjeepr
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here are some of my aluminum welds





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post #246 of 786 Old 09-16-2011, 07:45 AM
50wllystrk
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I'm running a build thread and some commented on this one from my build. I had to replace a frame section. These are 3/16 plates at a 90 degree angle. Miller 210 w/ .030 wire. I did run the sandblaster over it so it has a silver look to it.
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post #247 of 786 Old 10-11-2011, 02:21 PM
hallway94yj
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Some downhill vertical on my coil buckets..


And some right to left..
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post #248 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 09:57 PM
Finaltheorem47
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Hello, Can I get some feedback on my welds? I think I've almost got them down but I'm not sure what I want to be looking at.

Base 3/16" with the T being 1/8"

Also, I am following the directions on the side of the machine exactly, in fact I was one 'thickness' higher (using Hobart) for more heat than suggested (with wire speed turned up according to the chart also), and it looks like I'm getting exessive splatter. That is a sign of voltage too high, correct? Either increase wire speed or decrease voltage to fix the problem?

Some of the 'bulges,' which are most apparent in the 'normal' speed stringers were tack welds that I ran the bead over.

Here are three groups:

Stringer, normal speed:






Stringer, slow speed:









Dimes, not tack tack tack, more like stop go stop go:







The 'slow' stringers look the best but I feel that I'm just moving way too slow.

The 'normal' stringers look alright, they have more of a convex profile than the 'slow' strings, but don't look as good.

The dimes look alright, Honestly I'm not a big fan of them, if I'm correct, they are more for looks right? What of the 3 types of beads do I have, have the best penetration in general? Do dimes have the worst penetration? Do the dimes have the least amount of strength? Thanks!
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post #249 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:14 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finaltheorem47
Hello, Can I get some feedback on my welds? I think I've almost got them down but I'm not sure what I want to be looking at.

Base 3/16" with the T being 1/8"

Also, I am following the directions on the side of the machine exactly, in fact I was one 'thickness' higher (using Hobart) for more heat than suggested (with wire speed turned up according to the chart also), and it looks like I'm getting exessive splatter. That is a sign of voltage too high, correct? Either increase wire speed or decrease voltage to fix the problem?

Some of the 'bulges,' which are most apparent in the 'normal' speed stringers were tack welds that I ran the bead over.

Here are three groups:

Stringer, normal speed:

Stringer, slow speed:

Dimes, not tack tack tack, more like stop go stop go:

The 'slow' stringers look the best but I feel that I'm just moving way too slow.

The 'normal' stringers look alright, they have more of a convex profile than the 'slow' strings, but don't look as good.

The dimes look alright, Honestly I'm not a big fan of them, if I'm correct, they are more for looks right? What of the 3 types of beads do I have, have the best penetration in general? Do dimes have the worst penetration? Do the dimes have the least amount of strength? Thanks!
They all look pretty good if you feel like your moving to slow you can turn your machine up voltage/amps and wire speed and still keep the same quality weld..., the chart on the welder is just to get you close to the proper heat/wire speed... Just about every weldor will have different settings for the same weld it's just all what your comfortable with...
The "dime" welds are mainly just for looks but can be done with good penetration as well... You might want to try a few different weave patterns.... J's, circles, c's, whipping there are a bunch of different patterns you can try to get different looking welds....
They look good keep practicing

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars

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post #250 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:42 PM
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All of the welds look strong, some stronger than others. The "dimes" are the least strong, but probably strong enough for that particular thickness of metal. Of course, you can improve your technique on those, as youngjeepr stated.

The stringer beads, regular speed, aren't bad welds, but if we're splitting hairs, here, the travel speed is a little too fast. You can tell this by the shape of the "freeze lines". Those are the individual little curved lined that form as the liquid puddle is cooling. The freeze lines on these particular beads are a little > shaped, and should be a little more ) shaped. Slowing down will correct this.

The best quality welds, in my opinion, are pics 6,7, and 8. The freeze lines are the correct shape, the toes of the bead have good penetration into the base metal.

Like I said, they're all good. Just that some are better than others.

Keep on welding !

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #251 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:48 PM
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Various stuff i have welded. Two of them are weld tests the pipe is an AWS certification test i took just the other week (yes it passed) the other is just a layout test. some of those piece are 64ths in difference that kind of layout test.
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post #252 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:52 PM
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Those are first class welds! Nice job!

One question, though, is that pipe test done? It looks like it needs another bead in the center.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #253 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Those are first class welds! Nice job!

Rich
I guess i am kinda cheating I do it for a profession lol and am certified in several things presently at one time many more but they have since expired due to not using them for so long.

--1998 XJ "Mater"- RIP

2000 XJ--- 4.6 stroker. Saved from the grave- everything swapped or modded. I hate this thing :)
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post #254 of 786 Old 10-24-2011, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Those are first class welds! Nice job!

One question, though, is that pipe test done? It looks like it needs another bead in the center.

Rich
No its not done it had to cool down it couldnt go over 400 degrees interpass temp. If you look close on the right side you can see where there was a temp stick mark on it that had melted on a 375 degree stick.

--1998 XJ "Mater"- RIP

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post #255 of 786 Old 10-25-2011, 07:16 AM
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Showtime3492 View Post
No its not done it had to cool down it couldnt go over 400 degrees interpass temp. If you look close on the right side you can see where there was a temp stick mark on it that had melted on a 375 degree stick.
Gotcha...when we use temp sticks (I'm a nuclear pipewelder), we have to check the metal a minimum of 1", to a maximum of 3", away from the edge of the joint.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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