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Unread 05-02-2011, 04:05 PM   #196
Kenbo-Slice
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Depending on the space at hand and what else may be in the shop, spatter and slag can easily roll under objects catch something and smolder. Unsuspecting, one may leave the shop after doing some work only to return in the morning to a pile of ash and rubbish. Thankfully this has not happened to me, but being a firefighter, I have seen a few burners or near-misses from the use of a torch inside. Granted with proper precautions it isn't much of a worry but I would just rather do my cutting outdoors if it's going to be a substantial amount. I know many of us at one time or another are guilty of having gas cans or oily rags in the shop out in the open. I have used a torch in he shop on before, I just make sure it isn't at the end of my time there or for any lengthy period. Personal preference really. Kind of like a flex torch or rigid on a TIG haha, it's all in what the user is most comfortable with.

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Unread 05-02-2011, 05:48 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenbo-Slice View Post
Depending on the space at hand and what else may be in the shop, spatter and slag can easily roll under objects catch something and smolder. Unsuspecting, one may leave the shop after doing some work only to return in the morning to a pile of ash and rubbish. Thankfully this has not happened to me, but being a firefighter, I have seen a few burners or near-misses from the use of a torch inside. Granted with proper precautions it isn't much of a worry but I would just rather do my cutting outdoors if it's going to be a substantial amount. I know many of us at one time or another are guilty of having gas cans or oily rags in the shop out in the open. I have used a torch in he shop on before, I just make sure it isn't at the end of my time there or for any lengthy period. Personal preference really. Kind of like a flex torch or rigid on a TIG haha, it's all in what the user is most comfortable with.
Ahhh ok,sometimes i forget i'm in a Jeep forum and not thinking about being in a home garage and not a Fab Shop,..grinding,welding and cutting all create possible smoldering/fire hazards,that why we always quit work at least a 1/2 hour before time to leave as a "30 minute rule" for fire safety.

A little trick just incase you didn't know about preventing scratching the stainless handrail and such up on a steel table,put some firecloth on it,we generaly do that with any stainless but not to so much as to prevent from scratches but to prevent any mild steel from contaminating the stainless and cause it to rust later.

I know what you mean about personal preferences on a TIG torch,i can go either way with them,i like a ridgid when out in the open,but its impossible to TIG a root and hot pass on a say a 12" inch pipe in a corner in a power plant condensor,need a flex head with a button top,unless you cut out the plate wall behind it and then replace it.
Thye both have their purposes,i have several of both,just recently sold a "red head" weldcraft flexhead tig rig i aquired from a sell out from a company goin out of biz.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 12:07 AM   #198
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Millermatic 180 using the auto set. Meh, I don't really know what I am doing but they should hold.







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Unread 05-05-2011, 08:43 PM   #199
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heres mine. not the best but a pretty good one for me.

HH140 FLUX CORE(with no splatter)

welding 5/8" to 3/16"

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Unread 05-06-2011, 07:01 PM   #200
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Heres a few more TIG welds from thursday.
c360_2011-05-05-11-01-18.jpg   c360_2011-05-05-11-01-09.jpg   c360_2011-05-05-11-01-03.jpg  
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Unread 05-07-2011, 07:42 AM   #201
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NICE Stainless TIG meatlord!
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Unread 05-07-2011, 01:16 PM   #202
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Well, I finally got a decent welder! Once I get a bottle I'll be sure to post up more pics


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Unread 05-10-2011, 12:09 PM   #203
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Finally got time to hook up my new HH187 and tank and burn in about 4 welds, let me know what you think! It looks like I'm moving to slowly? This is 3/16 plate to 3/16 plate, gas is set at right about 20cf, any less and I'm getting some worm holes. Anyways, tips are appreciated(also, I know my welds are a tad uneven, just had two red bulls during class..)

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Unread 05-10-2011, 12:51 PM   #204
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Not so much as moving too slow,just inconsistant..

The first pic shows you started out OK then tryed to move too fast and then slowed down

The second pic shows you started at the base of the "T" and not in the center

Start you're puddle directly in the center of what you want to weld,let it burn and fill to the desired fill you want and then only move as fast as it burns and fill the same throughout the weld at one steady consistant movement as you watch the burn in on the front side and fill on the backside.

It looks like you have the idea of letting the end of the pass fill a little so thats a plus,at the end of my welds i generaly move just a tad faster at the end and then a little movement backwards to let it fill,this way the end won't "fall off" and fill good

It really doesn't look bad at all,you just seem to be moving at inconstant speeds throughout the pass and plus not stayin directly in the center.

When welding use you're elbow on something as a "stand" to help keep you're movement steady.
Make a "dry run" before you weld to make sure you are in a position that you can go consistantly through the pass without restrictions or have to stop before it is done.

Looks good though..just practice techniques and heat settings
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Unread 05-10-2011, 04:53 PM   #205
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OThanks for the tips! Im gonna burn some more when I get home to see if that helps (im sure it will! ) man I love welding!
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Unread 05-10-2011, 06:33 PM   #206
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these are from my 3rd time stick welding. im running an OLD lincoln 220V buzzbox, 6011 rod and some nifty stuff called "tartan B" by nassau?




i should probably start cleaning the metal im welding on... lol
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Unread 05-10-2011, 06:39 PM   #207
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im starting a class in june and i dont want to walk in there looking like a complete idiot.
isnt that the point of class? to not be perfect or even know nothing but to LEARN and IMPROVE. you may think that you look like an idiot but i bet the guy next to you cant even tell you which way to hold the rod.

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Unread 05-10-2011, 06:53 PM   #208
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You might want to start another thread,Kenbo might get a lil upset since he started this thread to show off welds and not to give long lessons in it.
For the most part they don't actualy look too bad for the fact you'r welding on dirty/rusty steel.

Start another thread and i'll give some stick welding pointers
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The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

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Unread 05-10-2011, 06:58 PM   #209
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cool thanks guys!
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Unread 05-10-2011, 07:06 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
You might want to start another thread,Kenbo might get a lil upset since he started this thread to show off welds and not to give long lessons in it.
For the most part they don't actualy look too bad for the fact you'r welding on dirty/rusty steel.

Start another thread and i'll give some stick welding pointers
Yeah, Kenbo is a mean angry dick.

Seriously though, It's nice to see tips, pointers, suggestions and general advice given on here. There are a lot of very talented guys on the forum but this IS a thread for pretty welds.... I know it's apples and oranges but the "pretty weld" thread on Pirate is almost nothing BUT pictures of legit welds and a few quick comments about some posts.
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