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Unread 11-15-2013, 08:43 AM   #991
Renegade82
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I'd find out for sure if it's made from tubing.... or pipe. Pipe is weaker.

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Unread 11-18-2013, 04:29 PM   #992
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Also you would probably want to redo the rear tubes, they should not have the bends in them near the bottom. You could run more tube but it would easier to cut them out and put in straight tubes.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:16 PM   #993
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B-Pillar questions

On the stock B-Pillar hoop there are several bends on the down pillar. I assume this is for aesthetics to keep the upper (visible) portion perpendicular to the body and then to maximize leg room for the rear passengers and provide a tight fit for other components. I also know that bends weaken the part so it isn't ideal. So here are my questions regarding the B-Pillar.

1. Are guys keeping the same bends in their B-Pillars or going straight?

2. If no bends are being used is it more typical to tie-into the body in the same location or keep the upper portion similar to the stock location? Having the upper in the same location is what makes the most sense to me especially since I want to try and run my soft top too.

3. The big question now. Is it more beneficial, structurally, to use the 'hoop' style (one piece like the stock B-Pillar from side to side) or run your solid tube front to back and tie the B-Pillars into that similar to the Rokmen cages.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:23 PM   #994
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:25 PM   #995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-rocc View Post
On the stock B-Pillar hoop there are several bends on the down pillar. I assume this is for aesthetics to keep the upper (visible) portion perpendicular to the body and then to maximize leg room for the rear passengers and provide a tight fit for other components. I also know that bends weaken the part so it isn't ideal. So here are my questions regarding the B-Pillar.

1. Are guys keeping the same bends in their B-Pillars or going straight?

2. If no bends are being used is it more typical to tie-into the body in the same location or keep the upper portion similar to the stock location? Having the upper in the same location is what makes the most sense to me especially since I want to try and run my soft top too.

3. The big question now. Is it more beneficial, structurally, to use the 'hoop' style (one piece like the stock B-Pillar from side to side) or run your solid tube front to back and tie the B-Pillars into that similar to the Rokmen cages.
If you are building a complete new cage you are correct to try and minimize bends, but a 10-20 degree bend to clear something is usually fine. The stocks B-pillars can take a good amount of force if they are properly braced and built to.

We like to drill the body mount bubble out and make our full cages tie into the body mount for a frame tie-in.

We prefer the non-hoop design because they tend to get snagged on trees and rocks when the Jeep is leaned. Having a solid, straight line from the windshield to the C-pillar lets them slide much better.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:26 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-rocc View Post
1. Are guys keeping the same bends in their B-Pillars or going straight?
I went straight on my last cage with a 1 piece B hoop.

Quote:
2. If no bends are being used is it more typical to tie-into the body in the same location or keep the upper portion similar to the stock location? Having the upper in the same location is what makes the most sense to me especially since I want to try and run my soft top too.
I tied into the same spot with some new B-pillar foot plates I made replicating the factory plates. I just made sure the section where the soft top mounts was located in the same position as the factory so the soft top would fit as it was designed.

Quote:
3. The big question now. Is it more beneficial, structurally, to use the 'hoop' style (one piece like the stock B-Pillar from side to side) or run your solid tube front to back and tie the B-Pillars into that similar to the Rokmen cages.
There is not really a strength difference. Either can be done properly and be just as strong. My first cage was done with a 1 piece B hoop because I think it is easier to make the soft top and door surrounds work if you replicate the stock B-hoop. My current cage has 1 piece AtoC pillars and straight supports at the B-pillar. It opened up the head room a bit and also having a 1-piece AtoC helps the cage slide against trees and rocks easier without hanging up on the B-hoop which sticks out a little more than the rest if you run a 1 piece B-hoop and separate A and C pillars.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:31 PM   #997
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Mike, so you angled the B-pillar/hoop to tie in into the same point and have roughly the same soft top locations?

Good answers guys. That's what I was looking for. The more I think about the design the more questions I come up with. It's a pretty intricate mass of metal and it seems to all make a difference. I think I'm leaning toward the a-c as well.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 06:22 PM   #998
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Mike, so you angled the B-pillar/hoop to tie in into the same point and have roughly the same soft top locations?
Correct, I measured from several reference points on the tub to the factory soft top mounting points before I removed the factory sport cage. Then I just made sure I placed the new B-pillar hoop in the same location to attach the soft top.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 12:26 PM   #999
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I just purchased Bend-Tech this morning to start designing my cage & a cage for a buddy. Problem is, I don't have the die I'll be using. So I was wondering if anyone has an 1 3/4" x 5.5" Radius die for a JD2 Model 3 bender that they could share their calibration info so I can start designing with the proper die so I don't have to redo everything??

Also, seeing as how it was 3° this morning, does anyone have the A, B, & C pillar starting points plotted & willing to share the X,Y,Z's for them?

Thanks!
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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:13 PM   #1000
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the stock cage pick points seemed like a closely guarded secret when I set up my cage in bendtech. My cage is entirely custom in bendtech and it works with door surrounds, full doors, etc. Point is: we need to make a "primer" with all the numbers listed for the factory start points to build off of. Once you have the starting point, it's super easy from there. Give me a bit and I will share...PM if I delay too much--getting old and forgetful
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Unread 12-12-2013, 01:48 PM   #1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDK
the stock cage pick points seemed like a closely guarded secret when I set up my cage in bendtech. My cage is entirely custom in bendtech and it works with door surrounds, full doors, etc. Point is: we need to make a "primer" with all the numbers listed for the factory start points to build off of. Once you have the starting point, it's super easy from there. Give me a bit and I will share...PM if I delay too much--getting old and forgetful
I'd take some of that info too. Would be really appreciated if you put that together.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 02:20 PM   #1002
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I'd take some of that info too. Would be really appreciated if you put that together.
+1... though each application is slightly unique, itd be good to have a starting reference point.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #1003
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The hard part is the b and a pillar. Those pretty much have to be perfect in order for the door surrounds to line just right. My A pillar is tube to the floor with 2 bends that puts it exactly where the stock removable bar is. The b-pillar is in the exact same place as the factory except all this is 1.75", not 2". My c-pillar lands in the exact factory spot. This, if I did it over today, would change and be moved back several inches to the rear. That makes things easier when going to connect to the frame and stays away from suspension more.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 07:14 AM   #1004
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Finally got my cage all finished up and just got back from a weekend of wheeling.






Those frame tie ins are beefy and sexy. Nice work. Makes me wanna watch a Jean-Claude Van Damme movie
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Unread 12-20-2013, 03:38 PM   #1005
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Originally Posted by PDK View Post
The hard part is the b and a pillar. Those pretty much have to be perfect in order for the door surrounds to line just right. My A pillar is tube to the floor with 2 bends that puts it exactly where the stock removable bar is. The b-pillar is in the exact same place as the factory except all this is 1.75", not 2". My c-pillar lands in the exact factory spot. This, if I did it over today, would change and be moved back several inches to the rear. That makes things easier when going to connect to the frame and stays away from suspension more.
Did you ever get a chance to get the TJ pick points for the roll cage? I just got my Bendtech6 software upgrade and would like to start laying out some cage plans. I am doing a LJ tub but the hardtop is in deep storage at a buddys storage barn so it is going to be a while before I can get dimensions with the top on the tub.
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