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December Specials at Jeephut.comROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kits

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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:43 PM   #946
WSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMD View Post
This is what it should look like when it is all done.

Here is mine for our CJ5, kinda like yours:





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Unread 08-13-2013, 11:03 AM   #947
Coop02x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos14 View Post
I really want to start on my cage build, but my lack of metal working experience has me leaning towards the Poison Spyder trail cage kit. Are there any other kits out there already cut and notched? I assume I will go with a "ready to weld in" kit.
Take a look at the KOZ Off Road cages. You can get their full cage kit for just $250 more than the Poison Spyder trail cage kit (a lot bigger bang for your buck). Or if you want to compare apple to apples, the KOZ trail cage kit is still a little cheaper than the PSC kit.

Also, there is the GenRight full kit or fastback kit and AtoZ front sport cage kit (AtoZ has a rear addition listed for 92-06 wranglers only. You might could check with them to see about options for your year model). The GenRight stuff just isn't as easy on the wallet.

I went with the PSC trail cage kit and heavy duty header bar kit for my TJ and if I were able to go back and do it over again, I would probably go with the KOZ kit (for more than one reason). The reason I didn't go with it in the first place was because I wasn't too keen on cutting the dash for the A pillar to go through. You live and you learn, right?

KOZ, GenRight, and AtoZ probably aren't your only options but they were a few that came to mind from when I was looking at cage kits. Whatever you do, if the YJs are like TJs, make sure you replace the header bars with something stronger!

Hope this helps!
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Unread 08-13-2013, 11:26 PM   #948
MO2500
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Here is a cage I recently finished. I sold the last cage I built (also in this thread) and started on this one to better fit my needs. I'm working on building a modified class jeep to race RcRocs/Ultra4/ect so I wanted to make a few revisions from my previous design and add some features that should make this cage stronger, safer and more roomier inside than my last one. This is the third cage I've done and it's amazing how much quicker it came together. My first cage took nearly 3 months to complete as it was my first time bending tube and building a cage, this one would have taken under 2 weeks if I didn't have to wait on seats/harnesses.






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Unread 08-14-2013, 08:08 AM   #949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coop02x View Post
Take a look at the KOZ Off Road cages. You can get their full cage kit for just $250 more than the Poison Spyder trail cage kit (a lot bigger bang for your buck). Or if you want to compare apple to apples, the KOZ trail cage kit is still a little cheaper than the PSC kit.

Also, there is the GenRight full kit or fastback kit and AtoZ front sport cage kit (AtoZ has a rear addition listed for 92-06 wranglers only. You might could check with them to see about options for your year model). The GenRight stuff just isn't as easy on the wallet.

I went with the PSC trail cage kit and heavy duty header bar kit for my TJ and if I were able to go back and do it over again, I would probably go with the KOZ kit (for more than one reason). The reason I didn't go with it in the first place was because I wasn't too keen on cutting the dash for the A pillar to go through. You live and you learn, right?

KOZ, GenRight, and AtoZ probably aren't your only options but they were a few that came to mind from when I was looking at cage kits. Whatever you do, if the YJs are like TJs, make sure you replace the header bars with something stronger!

Hope this helps!
Thanks for the help! I recently came across the KOZ kit and I have to say I like it. I guess it's time to start saving!
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Unread 08-18-2013, 03:48 PM   #950
Lifted96ZJ
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Here's the start to the back half of my cage











Not really meant for rear passengers other than my kid. I'd like to add some gussets and a bar across the back where it mounts to the tub for stabilization
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Unread 09-24-2013, 12:00 PM   #951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
Here is a cage I recently finished. I sold the last cage I built (also in this thread) and started on this one to better fit my needs. I'm working on building a modified class jeep to race RcRocs/Ultra4/ect so I wanted to make a few revisions from my previous design and add some features that should make this cage stronger, safer and more roomier inside than my last one. This is the third cage I've done and it's amazing how much quicker it came together. My first cage took nearly 3 months to complete as it was my first time bending tube and building a cage, this one would have taken under 2 weeks if I didn't have to wait on seats/harnesses.

Hey Mike, I don't know if you remember me or not from your trip out to CO but I had that white LJ on Patriot with you. Here is my question to you: was there any specific reason for flipping the 'V' in the dash on this cage from your last?
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Unread 09-24-2013, 12:51 PM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-rocc View Post
Hey Mike, I don't know if you remember me or not from your trip out to CO but I had that white LJ on Patriot with you. Here is my question to you: was there any specific reason for flipping the 'V' in the dash on this cage from your last?
Yes, I didn't forget you guys! I had a blast that day

The main reason for flipping the "V" in the windshield bars was for strength. When building a cage you want to try and avoid dead tubes (tubes that tie into the middle of a tube without anything behind it for support) as best you can and tie into nodes where multiple tubes come together. Reasoning is that the force during a roll will spread through more of the roll cage rather than loading into an unsupported structure.

Now, you can't completely eliminate the dead tubes in the windshield bars easily but you can see that with the tubes orientated like this "^", the center overhead support meets the two windshield bars and then they spread the force down and outwards towards the a-pillars. If they were flipped around like a "V" it would put all the force into the unsupported center of the dash bar. It also doesn't allow you to run a center overhead bar if you want them to tie into the windshield bars.

My first cage was built to retain the rear view mirror on the windshield so that is really the only reason I did it the other way. This cage was built entirely with strength and safety in mind, since I did away with the windshield, I went with what I believe is the strongest orientation of the windshield spreaders from my research of most Ultra4 and offroad racing cages.

However, both a "v" or a "^" is stronger than a single straight windshield spreader because it adds triangulation to the windshield area which will help prevent deformation if the cage takes a hit on the side.
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What's a CV shaft and why do I need one?
Driveline 101
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Unread 09-24-2013, 01:52 PM   #953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
Yes, I didn't forget you guys! I had a blast that day

The main reason for flipping the "V" in the windshield bars was for strength. When building a cage you want to try and avoid dead tubes (tubes that tie into the middle of a tube without anything behind it for support) as best you can and tie into nodes where multiple tubes come together. Reasoning is that the force during a roll will spread through more of the roll cage rather than loading into an unsupported structure.

Now, you can't completely eliminate the dead tubes in the windshield bars easily but you can see that with the tubes orientated like this "^", the center overhead support meets the two windshield bars and then they spread the force down and outwards towards the a-pillars. If they were flipped around like a "V" it would put all the force into the unsupported center of the dash bar. It also doesn't allow you to run a center overhead bar if you want them to tie into the windshield bars.

My first cage was built to retain the rear view mirror on the windshield so that is really the only reason I did it the other way. This cage was built entirely with strength and safety in mind, since I did away with the windshield, I went with what I believe is the strongest orientation of the windshield spreaders from my research of most Ultra4 and offroad racing cages.

However, both a "v" or a "^" is stronger than a single straight windshield spreader because it adds triangulation to the windshield area which will help prevent deformation if the cage takes a hit on the side.
Well said! Thanks for the detailed explanation.

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Unread 09-24-2013, 06:05 PM   #954
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My start. This is to be more of a sport cage than a roll cage, if that makes sense.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 10:42 PM   #955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
Yes, I didn't forget you guys! I had a blast that day

The main reason for flipping the "V" in the windshield bars was for strength. When building a cage you want to try and avoid dead tubes (tubes that tie into the middle of a tube without anything behind it for support) as best you can and tie into nodes where multiple tubes come together. Reasoning is that the force during a roll will spread through more of the roll cage rather than loading into an unsupported structure.

Now, you can't completely eliminate the dead tubes in the windshield bars easily but you can see that with the tubes orientated like this "^", the center overhead support meets the two windshield bars and then they spread the force down and outwards towards the a-pillars. If they were flipped around like a "V" it would put all the force into the unsupported center of the dash bar. It also doesn't allow you to run a center overhead bar if you want them to tie into the windshield bars.

My first cage was built to retain the rear view mirror on the windshield so that is really the only reason I did it the other way. This cage was built entirely with strength and safety in mind, since I did away with the windshield, I went with what I believe is the strongest orientation of the windshield spreaders from my research of most Ultra4 and offroad racing cages.

However, both a "v" or a "^" is stronger than a single straight windshield spreader because it adds triangulation to the windshield area which will help prevent deformation if the cage takes a hit on the side.
Thanks Mike. That all makes sense and was kind of what I was expecting to hear. The reason I was asking is because I wanted to carry the 'v' up into two front vertical spreaders so that there wasn't a dead end tube. I didn't really want to run a single front spreader in the center of the front section. I'm going to draw up a couple more concepts and see what I can put together.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 11:21 PM   #956
8pitcher
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Does anyone have any pictures anywhere of how the cage ties into the frame? All I've ever seen has been to the tub but never from the tub to the frame. Thanks guys.
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Unread 09-25-2013, 06:55 PM   #957
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Just a simple add-on cage. Using 1.75 dom and the genright dash stanchions (bottom half is not back in yet.)






These handles are made from old stock Jeep tierods. They seem to work nicely.
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Unread 09-25-2013, 07:30 PM   #958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8pitcher View Post
Does anyone have any pictures anywhere of how the cage ties into the frame? All I've ever seen has been to the tub but never from the tub to the frame. Thanks guys.
Here is how mine are tied in.

A-pillar


C-pillar


C-pillar changed a little with frame modifications but basically the same. I ditched the bushings and hard mounted my cage since it's a trail/race rig now.
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Useful tech links:
Stu-Offroad - great technical write-ups!
What's a CV shaft and why do I need one?
Driveline 101
TJ Specs
-Mike-
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Unread 09-25-2013, 07:32 PM   #959
8pitcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500

Here is how mine are tied in.

A-pillar


C-pillar


C-pillar changed a little with frame modifications but basically the same. I ditched the bushings and hard mounted my cage since it's a trail/race rig now.
Thank you
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Unread 09-26-2013, 09:43 AM   #960
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Did a few sketches of some ideas and would like to hear some input from you guys. Things to note is that I need to have a back seat so my boy can go out with us and this is only the top of the cage design that I am trying to decide on. Safety is the number one reason for building the cage. I'm not as concerned about the aesthetics of it but I don't want some heap of a cage either.

This is the first concept I had before Mike went off and started making sense and being practical.


With the ^ in the dash:
This one is based a lot off of yours Mike because it looks great.


^ in the dash but much simpler design:


Feel free to be brutal and give me your comments.
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