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Unread 11-14-2012, 03:15 PM   #841
WSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigt2317 View Post
doesn't matter if the bigger plate is on top or bottom. Actucally, I wouldn't think size would matter much at all if you're doing a direct frame tie in. As long as the tubes line up from the top of the tub to the bottom then the plates do nothing more than provide a place to bolt down. Of course, you want to go with a nice thick plate though.

1.75" is pretty much the norm when it comes to jeep cages. You will be fine will 1.75", it's probably plenty strong for your needs
I will be using some mild 5/16" for the gussets, is that enough? The B pillar is going to be tough to tie in, I may have to use some half inch plate to trace along the wheel well, I did some max flex with my forklift to see how much room I have and a 1.5" tube will not fit, A and C pillars are pretty straight shots.

I just talked to my buddy and he does not have 1.75" dies! Darn. He does have 1", 1.25", 1.5" and 2". I could do the three hoops in 2 and the everything else in 1.5"....What do you think? Space is precious in these CJ5s for sure. I notched the rear wells about 2.75" in total and it still feels a little tight. I am going to drop the pedals about 2" and that should do it. The A pillar will be bent to fit up under the dash a bit more than the original one too, that will give a little more "hop in" room.

I am looking forward to this project! My job is making/modifying parts for the heavy equip and rock crushing industry, so this is outside my box! However it is my Jeep and not mass produced parts "for sale" and that lends to happy challenge.

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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:08 PM   #842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
I will be using some mild 5/16" for the gussets, is that enough? The B pillar is going to be tough to tie in, I may have to use some half inch plate to trace along the wheel well, I did some max flex with my forklift to see how much room I have and a 1.5" tube will not fit, A and C pillars are pretty straight shots.

I just talked to my buddy and he does not have 1.75" dies! Darn. He does have 1", 1.25", 1.5" and 2". I could do the three hoops in 2 and the everything else in 1.5"....What do you think? Space is precious in these CJ5s for sure. I notched the rear wells about 2.75" in total and it still feels a little tight. I am going to drop the pedals about 2" and that should do it. The A pillar will be bent to fit up under the dash a bit more than the original one too, that will give a little more "hop in" room.

I am looking forward to this project! My job is making/modifying parts for the heavy equip and rock crushing industry, so this is outside my box! However it is my Jeep and not mass produced parts "for sale" and that lends to happy challenge.
I think it would be a personal preference about using the 2" with 1-1/2". They way my cage is done is a single piece from top of A pillar by windshield all the way back to the C pillar at floor, then legs for the A pillar, spreaders and legs for B and spreader for C. I liked this design better than individual hoops for A, B, or C pillar. Not sure whats different in CJ vs TJ's and it may be more difficult than in a TJ. Just make sure you TAKE YOUR TIME bending the tube and you can always bend it more but never "unbend" it.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 08:56 PM   #843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigt2317 View Post
I think it would be a personal preference about using the 2" with 1-1/2". They way my cage is done is a single piece from top of A pillar by windshield all the way back to the C pillar at floor, then legs for the A pillar, spreaders and legs for B and spreader for C. I liked this design better than individual hoops for A, B, or C pillar. Not sure whats different in CJ vs TJ's and it may be more difficult than in a TJ. Just make sure you TAKE YOUR TIME bending the tube and you can always bend it more but never "unbend" it.
I looked at your build thread but did not see any details of the cage, does your A pillar tie in at the corners with no bends? I could do something like this, it may be easier too, as once I got the main part bent (C pillar legs all the way around to the A pillar top spreader and back down to the C pillar legs agin) I would be at less risk of losing 2" DOM due to inexperience! All the pieces that would require the critical bends would be fairly short. I like this idea. That one long piece would have four or maybe six bends in it. The possible "six" bends would be at the B pillar if a little (slight degree or two) bend is needed to fit tight under the soft top. The DOM I am getting comes in 18' lengths, I just did some rough estimates and it needs to be 19.16'. Maybe real world will work though. I did not deduct CL measurements or work in bend radius'

Thanks for the help and ideas.
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Unread 11-15-2012, 06:03 AM   #844
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WSS - I haven't updated my build thread yet to have the details and pics of the cage. It was just done about 2 weeks ago and I'm still finalizing it, I'll update it soon and let you know. Yes, my A pillar is a single tube from the floor to the top of windshield, then it's one tube from top of windshield to back to C pillar floor. I like it this way since I think it gives it a more "blended finished" look and if I do happen to have to slide it along rock or trees then there wont be any tube intersections so it will have a smooth surface from front to back
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Unread 11-15-2012, 07:48 PM   #845
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About to replace all my tubes with a full cage, but I want to use the factory front shoulder belts.

What is the best way to remount those on new tubing.

Sleeved hole with a grade 8 nut and washer on the backside?

Is there a threaded sleeve that can be welded in like the factory mount? I would think the extra hardware on the back side would make the mount even stronger.

Have any of you done it and how?

Thanks!!

And the reason is I'm just not ready for racing seats and harnesses. I still road drive it often.
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Unread 11-15-2012, 09:04 PM   #846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
About to replace all my tubes with a full cage, but I want to use the factory front shoulder belts.

What is the best way to remount those on new tubing.

Sleeved hole with a grade 8 nut and washer on the backside?

Is there a threaded sleeve that can be welded in like the factory mount? I would think the extra hardware on the back side would make the mount even stronger.

Have any of you done it and how?

Thanks!!



And the reason is I'm just not ready for racing seats and harnesses. I still road drive it often.
Here ya go, this is just one example there are more out there:
http://shop.poisonspyder.com/Machine.../14-19-031.htm
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Unread 11-16-2012, 08:48 AM   #847
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I have a dozen of these for my build. I like the through ones though from PS. Might get a few of those for the laps and shoulders.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weld-Seat-Be...item4d03a3bc97

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Unread 11-19-2012, 02:38 PM   #848
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For you guys who build and install cages on a regular basis like Zach and such, what are you using for an isolation material when you make the connection thru the body?
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Unread 11-20-2012, 02:52 PM   #849
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So, here's a rough design for the cage that will be made for my Willys. It will probably change a little bit, but this is what I'm thinking. (1 3/4" tubing) I've got a few questions though! My design is based off of the common 6 point cage, very simple. But I don't know much about cages, so I've got some questions :-)

#1. I've been wondering if it's better to have the b-pillar tube on both sides of the jeep be one piece of tube? (like I have in this design) or if it's better to have the a-pillar bar and c-pillar bar be all one piece of tube with the b-pillar being welded in to that? (if that makes sense)

#2. Thinking about putting a connecting bar to connect the c-pilars (just above the tail gate area) but I'm not sure I want to do that, as I wouldn't be able to load anything big into the back of the jeep very easily that way. Does a connecting bar between the two c-pillars just above the tub line/tailgate add much for strength?

#3. I'd like to get some triangulation in there somehow, but I don't want to turn it into a jungle gym. Any suggestions? I'm thinking maybe an X connecting the top corner of the B-pillars to the lower corners of the C-pillars. That probably wouldn't affect my rearward visibility. But it would limit what I could carry in the back, I don't know if I like that.

I will be welding sheet metal between the two bars that connect the b-pillar hoop to the windshield, so that I can mount my CB, dome light, and a few other things up there.

None of the seat mounting structure is present in these images. Rear fender wells will be cut to allow room for new seats.

This will NOT be a hard-core jeep, it will be a daily driver and a mild trail vehicle, not a stretched rock crawler or buggy on big axles and tires. But it will see offroad trails that are capable of doing with 31" tires. So keep that in mind with the suggestions Suspension will be about 1" higher than stock, and tires are 31x9.5x15 superswampers. Cage will bet tied into the frame at all 6 points.








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Unread 11-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #850
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Looks like a lot like a few of the cages some of the company's are selling. I would see about adding some triangulation on the overhead spreaders.

Quote:
Originally Posted by danielbuck View Post
So, here's a rough design for the cage that will be made for my Willys. It will probably change a little bit, but this is what I'm thinking. (1 3/4" tubing) I've got a few questions though! My design is based off of the common 6 point cage, very simple. But I don't know much about cages, so I've got some questions :-)

#1. I've been wondering if it's better to have the b-pillar tube on both sides of the jeep be one piece of tube? (like I have in this design) or if it's better to have the a-pillar bar and c-pillar bar be all one piece of tube with the b-pillar being welded in to that? (if that makes sense)

#2. Thinking about putting a connecting bar to connect the c-pilars (just above the tail gate area) but I'm not sure I want to do that, as I wouldn't be able to load anything big into the back of the jeep very easily that way. Does a connecting bar between the two c-pillars just above the tub line/tailgate add much for strength?

#3. I'd like to get some triangulation in there somehow, but I don't want to turn it into a jungle gym. Any suggestions? I'm thinking maybe an X connecting the top corner of the B-pillars to the lower corners of the C-pillars. That probably wouldn't affect my rearward visibility. But it would limit what I could carry in the back, I don't know if I like that.

I will be welding sheet metal between the two bars that connect the b-pillar hoop to the windshield, so that I can mount my CB, dome light, and a few other things up there.

None of the seat mounting structure is present in these images. Rear fender wells will be cut to allow room for new seats.

This will NOT be a hard-core jeep, it will be a daily driver and a mild trail vehicle, not a stretched rock crawler or buggy on big axles and tires. But it will see offroad trails that are capable of doing with 31" tires. So keep that in mind with the suggestions Suspension will be about 1" higher than stock, and tires are 31x9.5x15 superswampers. Cage will bet tied into the frame at all 6 points.








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Unread 11-21-2012, 05:21 PM   #851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Molonlabemike View Post
Looks like a lot like a few of the cages some of the company's are selling. I would see about adding some triangulation on the overhead spreaders.
Yea, I started out by roughing out what is already kind of an existing base point, the standard 6-point cage that is pretty common.

If any triangulation is going to be done, where is the one spot that would benefit the most from it? An X on the B-pillar?
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Unread 11-22-2012, 11:38 PM   #852
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Here's another version, A and C pillar are the same tube now (I think I like this ALOT better) and the B-pillar is near vertical instead of bent back. I guess this would probably be stronger than being bent backwards a bit? And also some triangulation in the B-pillar, still keeping the connecting bar so that the harnesses can be mounted to the bar.

I think I would be ok with the triangulation in the b-pillar, I don't think it's looking like a jungle gym.









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Unread 11-22-2012, 11:53 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
I picked up my S&W front half conversion wednesday, getting started here.



I read this whole thread, this was the only bit I found about mounting the A pillar landing pad:



I don't really like that, is that how everyone has landed that A pillar?
It leaves almost an inch of dead space between the sandwich plates.
What I'd like to do is cut the inside floor pan of the tub.
Probably cut the tub (on the red rectangle) in a H like shape, so I can fold it down and tack it together to keep it nice and firm there.



That puts the cage down to the lower piece of the tub channel there.



here's a kick *** drawing I did.



Then my lower sandwich plate will just be incorporated into new rock sliders
Any comments on this?

If you landed an A pillar in a TJ and have any other ideas or pics I'm open to thoughts on this one.

Thanks,
Ben
I think a few spacers between the plates would be much easier, 1" diameter or so would work well.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 09:00 AM   #854
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Here's a version with a full X in the B-pillar, I think this might be sufficient?

I wonder, for a vehicle that is not going to see hard core trails, would this cage minus the X on the b-pillar be sufficient? Seems like for a flop or a mild roll over it would be plenty sufficient? Being that the vehicle only weighs something like 2400 pounds. I'd like to make it safe & secure, but I don't want to go over kill and end up with a jungle gym that isn't enjoyable/practical to drive around town in.





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Unread 11-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #855
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I think a few spacers between the plates would be much easier, 1" diameter or so would work well.
I would agree, I simply drilled a 1.75in hole and used a piece of 1.75 Dom to fill the void. Simply weld the space to the slider or bottom cage mount then tie that into the frame and call it good!
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