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Unread 10-18-2012, 10:50 AM   #826
aTX427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Some diagonal bracing on the main hoop would add some much needed triangulation. With out the bracing, a sideways flop will bend the cage off to the side. In a full roll, the cage will collapse right down on top of the seats.



Is that a TJ main cage? I'm not too fond of the crimped sections and holes.....
Looking at this picture makes me second guess using tubes for the a-pillar and maybe using reinforced stanctions are the way to go. The overhead section held up well, as did the windshield frame section. It looks like the rear deformed as a result of the a-pillar failing. Adding "X" bars at the b-pillar would help, but the a-pillar would still have deformed below gussets connecting the horizontal dash bar to the a-pillars. Maybe not as bad, but the a-pillar would most likely have deformed.

The only way that deformation would have been prevented is with lateral triangulation of the a-pillars, which I do not see possible - at least on my TJ without major effort. With enough force, the bars would have folded causing catastrophic failure or ripped the floor mounts out, assuming they were not frame supported.

I haven't seen pictures of stanction failures or firewall deformation to say with confidence, but I am guessing they could have helped in this example.

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Unread 10-20-2012, 08:29 PM   #827
Kniel3378
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A few pictures of my cage/backhalf. One thing to note, a "w" b pillar brace is just as strong as an x brace. And also, not many people do them. But they usually require a straigt bar across
image-3106309301.jpg   image-3722729499.jpg   image-968961876.jpg  
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Unread 10-22-2012, 09:50 AM   #828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
I made some parts to make tube splicing easyer. Insteed of just using 1 1/4" .120 wall for inserts, I took some random 1.5" 1/4 wall and truned them down to fit the ID of the 1.5" .120 wall tube.
But I left a .40thou ridge about .80 thou wide, should give a perfect bevel for the the two tubes to be spliced.

Made a hanful of these,





I left them as a ruff cut as they will be burried under tube and weld.

Jason.
Cool, Jason.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 04:16 PM   #829
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image-3728317087.jpg
Here is how my seats will be mounted
image-2743939088.jpg  
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Unread 10-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #830
browning16
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I'd like to modify one of my roll bars for my YJ in the near future, I have both the sport bar and the family bar. Id like to be able to have use of the reat seats, even though i don't like to have them in, i may need them sometime. My main concern is the windshield, what is the best way to keep the bar and windshield from folding down onto me and/or a front seat passenger in the event of a bad roll? like rolling multiple times consecutively. I wouldn't mind a pillar coming straight up in the middle of the windshield but i would say a triangle would be a little too much, even though its probably the best way to do things. Any suggestions anyone? Pictures? Descriptions of your idea? Crude drawings? Keep in mind it will still be a DD, I'm doing this mostly to keep myself safe, and keep my parents from going insane, thinking im going to die.
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Unread 10-30-2012, 06:34 PM   #831
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About to make the cage for the TJ, and I'm trying to get the front right while being able to attach the door surrounds. I want the bar to go through the dash and make the bend to the rear. I think I can do it and still the the clamp on for the surround. I have seen it done. But that pretty much leaves out the attachment from the cage to the windshield frame.

Does that attachment really matter that much?

Thanks
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Unread 10-30-2012, 06:54 PM   #832
bigt2317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvo View Post
About to make the cage for the TJ, and I'm trying to get the front right while being able to attach the door surrounds. I want the bar to go through the dash and make the bend to the rear. I think I can do it and still the the clamp on for the surround. I have seen it done. But that pretty much leaves out the attachment from the cage to the windshield frame.

Does that attachment really matter that much?

Thanks
The way my cage is built has one single tube running from upper windshield mount to C pillar then from the floor up to the upper tube at the A pillar. I don't think you'll have any problem making a windshield attachment by running a single tube for the entire A pillar back to the C pillar. Just run the long tube then just weld the windshield mount to the upper bend at the A pillar.

I think the upper mounts are important but not 100% necessary. With out them I hear you'll get some vibrations from the windshield.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 01:05 PM   #833
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what do you guys think of using .095 1 3/4 HREW for seat mounting?

My exo cage and interior bracing is made from 1 3/4 .120 DOM, and i want to add an H frame for front seat mounting. id rather not have to buy another stick of DOM when i have the HREW already in the shop if possible.

EDIT, also considering building a "half hoop" out of the same tube that would run from the supports behind the front seats and run around the windshield area and back to the other side as something i can make grab handles off of. i can try to get a picture to better show what im talking about if needed.
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Unread 11-04-2012, 07:15 PM   #834
82JeepCJ7
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HREW should be fine for seat mounts. Just try and put the seam on the inside of the bend.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 08:31 PM   #835
WSS
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Very inspiring thread! A vast amount of knowledge here. Inspiring enough to get on with a full cage build for our new(ish) CJ5. I have a few square feet of 5/16" plate I can use for the floor and frame tie-in plates. My question is what is a good size (footprint) to go with and what size bolt hole? I am leaning toward 1/2" gr8 bolts but is that too big? I will be using 2x.120 dom, is a 3-1/2"x3-1/2" floor plate big enough? I will use machine washers in gr8 as well so they are a bit tighter fitting over the standard washer. I am sure all this has been covered before but I did not see any reasons why or why not. I will probably do a direct frame tie in and place a 3/8 or 1/2 inch belting between the bottom tie and under tub mount spot, is this a good idea?

Sprayed the tub with liner yesterday and it is all ready to have a new cage built. I pulled the old one for two reasons, one, I need a family cage to cover the rear seat (new) and second the old cage's bends were comprimised with too much crushing at the bends, I did not feel it would be a safe starting point.

Thanks for any input,
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Unread 11-13-2012, 09:56 PM   #836
bigt2317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
Very inspiring thread! A vast amount of knowledge here. Inspiring enough to get on with a full cage build for our new(ish) CJ5. I have a few square feet of 5/16" plate I can use for the floor and frame tie-in plates. My question is what is a good size (footprint) to go with and what size bolt hole? I am leaning toward 1/2" gr8 bolts but is that too big? I will be using 2x.120 dom, is a 3-1/2"x3-1/2" floor plate big enough? I will use machine washers in gr8 as well so they are a bit tighter fitting over the standard washer. I am sure all this has been covered before but I did not see any reasons why or why not. I will probably do a direct frame tie in and place a 3/8 or 1/2 inch belting between the bottom tie and under tub mount spot, is this a good idea?

Sprayed the tub with liner yesterday and it is all ready to have a new cage built. I pulled the old one for two reasons, one, I need a family cage to cover the rear seat (new) and second the old cage's bends were comprimised with too much crushing at the bends, I did not feel it would be a safe starting point.

Thanks for any input,
WSS
I think 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" foot will work fine, use different sizes for top and bottom so they don't have the "cookie cutter" effect and fatigue the tub.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 01:38 PM   #837
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2" may look a little big for a CJ-5. Do you have a 1.75" die and access to tube?

Personally, we use our 5x5.5" cage plates. 3.5x3.5" will be a little tight with the tube in the center.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 01:48 PM   #838
bigt2317
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Zach does have a point with 2" looking big. Since he is doing a frame tie in the foot plate size shouldn't matter as much as if it was just mounted to the tub, correct?
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Unread 11-14-2012, 02:02 PM   #839
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bigt2317, Good point about the cookie cutter tearing. Is one inch larger OK (half inch lip all around)? Should the larger be on top or bottom? It would be more convenient to put the smaller on top due to room constraints.

Zach, Do you think 1.75 will be as strong as 2"? I do have access to 1.75 dies and tube. A friend of mine who makes heavy equipment parts with us is into sand cars and has a hydraulic bender and dies he is letting me use (we trade stuff often) for a month or so. I do need the room, so I would certainly use 1.75 if it makes sense.

I do not plan on rolling hard or even flopping on it's side but the Jeep will be hauling my two prized possessions (my wife and son).

Thanks!!
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Unread 11-14-2012, 02:19 PM   #840
bigt2317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
bigt2317, Good point about the cookie cutter tearing. Is one inch larger OK (half inch lip all around)? Should the larger be on top or bottom? It would be more convenient to put the smaller on top due to room constraints.

Zach, Do you think 1.75 will be as strong as 2"? I do have access to 1.75 dies and tube. A friend of mine who makes heavy equipment parts with us is into sand cars and has a hydraulic bender and dies he is letting me use (we trade stuff often) for a month or so. I do need the room, so I would certainly use 1.75 if it makes sense.

I do not plan on rolling hard or even flopping on it's side but the Jeep will be hauling my two prized possessions (my wife and son).

Thanks!!
WSS
doesn't matter if the bigger plate is on top or bottom. Actucally, I wouldn't think size would matter much at all if you're doing a direct frame tie in. As long as the tubes line up from the top of the tub to the bottom then the plates do nothing more than provide a place to bolt down. Of course, you want to go with a nice thick plate though.

1.75" is pretty much the norm when it comes to jeep cages. You will be fine will 1.75", it's probably plenty strong for your needs
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