[jkoz79]

Originally Posted by DualPurposeXJ

No problem I got 15 degrees on my angle finder

Thank you very much

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[Jim1611]

I had thought that I might do more than just what you see here for the A pillar tie-in but after getting these fitted up I think this is enough. Very simple, almost too much so but simple is usually better. The plate that is bolted to the bottom of the tub is bigger than needed so after I get things tacked where they belong I'll do a little trimming on it.

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by Jim1611

I had thought that I might do more than just what you see here for the A pillar tie-in but after getting these fitted up I think this is enough. Very simple, almost too much so but simple is usually better. The plate that is bolted to the bottom of the tub is bigger than needed so after I get things tacked where they belong I'll do a little trimming on it.

Any reason your not welding directly to the frame instead of the plate body mount? Like rotating 90* and tieing right to the frame.

[silverjeep]

I just looked at every page on this thread again. After much deliberation, I'm going with Zacks A to Z Fab addon kit. It looks very well thought out, it's priced right and is aesthetically pleasing. I will be adding more DOM in some of the recommended areas and possibly some guessets. Wheeling is a family event in our house hold. I wheel with a 9 and 4 year old in the back, I know this will keep them safe. Just in case.

I'll post pics once it's done.

I will be ordering his week, How do I get the JF discount????

[Jim1611]

Originally Posted by MO2500

Any reason your not welding directly to the frame instead of the plate body mount? Like rotating 90* and tieing right to the frame.

No not really. I had it turned that way earlier and this seemed better to me. What's your thoughts?

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by Jim1611

No not really. I had it turned that way earlier and this seemed better to me. What's your thoughts?

I was just curious if you had a reason to do it that way. I probably would weld it directly to the frame (I did with my own) but I don't know if one way is better than the other. It just seems straight to the frame would be the simplest way to go and it's how most do it. Everyone seems to have there own method of tieing the cage in and it's sort of difficult to really "test" the strength of different designs short of rolling the jeep down a hill. Most try to avoid that situation

Your cage is coming along great though. Keep up the good work

[Jim1611]

Thanks Mike. I did go back today and hold it up to the frame. I'd have to make the 2" square pcs. over becuase the way they are isn't long enough. Guess I'll leave them as they are. You're right there's many ways to do the tie-ins and I hope to not test mine!! We never know though do we.

[jkoz79]

Getting there. A few cuts to shorten the b pillar and it fit better than I ever imagined.

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[jkoz79]

DONE!!!!! Tied into the frame and everything. A YJ family cage into a 64 CJ5

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[rtbtitans50]

A few things....
I can see a lot of people replace their entire stock cage, and people add on. I was planning on replacing my entire cage w/ 1.75 .120 wall DOM, except I was going to keep my stock b pillar. I would think this would make it easier to help keep some of the stock locations of the soft top, door surrounds etc. I will be adding lots
Any input on this?

Also I have seen the dash tie ins, going through the dash to the floor, and a combo of both. Recommendations? I am leaning towards the combo of dash tie in then connect through the floor to the frame. Seems like less time due to not having to take the dash off and snake some tubing through there. Input?

[zachv]

Originally Posted by rtbtitans50

A few things....
I can see a lot of people replace their entire stock cage, and people add on. I was planning on replacing my entire cage w/ 1.75 .120 wall DOM, except I was going to keep my stock b pillar. I would think this would make it easier to help keep some of the stock locations of the soft top, door surrounds etc. I will be adding lots
Any input on this?

Also I have seen the dash tie ins, going through the dash to the floor, and a combo of both. Recommendations? I am leaning towards the combo of dash tie in then connect through the floor to the frame. Seems like less time due to not having to take the dash off and snake some tubing through there. Input?

Cage add-ons are great for general trail rigs. Full cages are best for hardcore trail rigs and comp rigs. Keeping the stock B-pillar does make a cage addition easier and if you are going to re-use the stock soft top you are going to have tubes there anyway.

IMO, running tube through the dash is the best/only true option. I do not trust bent plate steel that bolts to the cowl, whether it goes to the floor or not. You just do not know which way that bent plate will be loaded in a roll or flop and bolting to the cowl area is just weak and does not add much strength. BTW, you do not need to remove the dash to put tube through the dash and down to the floor. E-mail me for a copy of our install instructions and you will see how we do it.

AtoZ Fab Cage Additions

[Mud Machine]

Here's one in my CJ

[razorback84]

How do you guys feel about the pre-fab cages such as the Genright cage?

[FunkSkunk]

Good simple proven design if you want DIY. But it may not suit your style or needs exactly. You would be surprised what you could get by checking out your local fab shop! And it would be exactly what you need instead of another cookie cutter cage

[razorback84]

Originally Posted by FunkSkunk

Good simple proven design if you want DIY. But it may not suit your style or needs exactly. You would be surprised what you could get by checking out your local fab shop! And it would be exactly what you need instead of another cookie cutter cage

Thats the route I'm taking. Found a local club guy that does cages. Plus I want a cage that goes through the dash