*Official* Cage idea/pic/discussion thread - Page 28

onlyinayj89 · 10-05-2009, 11:38 AM

If the 1.50 will work just as good for some of the pieces, that works for me. I'd rather keep it a little lighter, if it doesn't sacrifice that much strength. You'll be hearing from me, when I get some extra cash.. Thanks.

Fred99TJ · 10-05-2009, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zachv

$4/ft. for DOM cuts, $3.50/ft. for full sticks.

BTW, those pieces I mentioned, except maybe the B-pillar X, could be done with 1.5"x.120" to save some weight. Straight reinforcements do not need to be 1.75", but whatever tickles your fancy.

Why is weight always seem to be an issue for wheelers. We build vehicles to crawl not drive fast so why is weight an issue?

**zachv** · 10-05-2009, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred99TJ

Why is weight always seem to be an issue for wheelers. We build vehicles to crawl not drive fast so why is weight an issue?

Ask that when your rig is sideways on a slab of rock. Those extra 50 lbs. up high in a cage can be detrimental in a situation like that.

**Kenbo-Slice** · 10-05-2009, 09:48 PM

Zach, I'll be sending you a PM in a couple minutes.

ksheffer08 · 10-16-2009, 02:48 AM

i noticed alot of people asking for XJ cages..... this isn't mine, Its JCR offroad's cage, but i love this thing. makes my want a wagon.

PDK · 11-23-2009, 11:44 AM

I have a question about putting an X for triangulation in the B-Pillar. I see many people putting bends in these in order to get them towards the back so you are able to slide the front seats all the way back, which I will need to do since I'm very tall. It seems that bending it like that would weaken the trianglulation structure and somewhat defeat the purpose.
So, my question is this: Is it OK (not unsafe structurally) to mount the top of the X behind the B Pillar on the uprights? The top of the X would be angled back several inches and only mounted to the B Pillar at the bottom.
Thoughts/comments please. thanks

rebel075 · 11-23-2009, 08:01 PM

Thats actually what i was planning on doing when i start building my cage soon. I'm going to put that x u were talking about about 5 or 6 in back from the b pillar, and then have the x connect to the bottom of the b pillar. The only think i could think of is adding additional triangulation to the top of the X bars because it will be angled. I'll be adding it from the top of the X down to the bottom of the C pillar. I hope that makes sense.

Callen21 · 12-02-2009, 06:46 PM

I have a question on cage building.... Looking at building a sport cage for my 98 tj but i want it to attach to the floor any ideas??

**zachv** · 12-02-2009, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Callen21

I have a question on cage building.... Looking at building a sport cage for my 98 tj but i want it to attach to the floor any ideas??

When you say "attach to the floor", what does that entail? Do you mean bolting to the floor or welding to the floor? We have a kit where we provide a frame tie-in for the A-pillars after bolting through the footwell.

Callen21 · 12-02-2009, 09:08 PM

I have been looking at the gen right stanchions and PSC but i want something that will hold up in a roll over.. although I dont plan on testing it anytime soon, but i was looking for other ways to tie into the floor where i dont have to foot the bill for those customs stanchions. i would also like to keep the tubing 1 3/4 od by 1 1/2 id so i can weld over the factory stub on the exsiting cage.. any suggestions??

Callen21 · 12-02-2009, 09:11 PM

Quote:

"When you say "attach to the floor", what does that entail? Do you mean bolting to the floor or welding to the floor? We have a kit where we provide a frame tie-in for the A-pillars after bolting through the footwell."

bolting will be fine i dont want to cut up the tub and weld to the frame by no means.. this is my DD and i did that to my old cj and it made some terrible noise.

**zachv** · 12-03-2009, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Callen21

I have been looking at the gen right stanchions and PSC but i want something that will hold up in a roll over.. although I dont plan on testing it anytime soon, but i was looking for other ways to tie into the floor where i dont have to foot the bill for those customs stanchions. i would also like to keep the tubing 1 3/4 od by 1 1/2 id so i can weld over the factory stub on the exsiting cage.. any suggestions??

PM me your e-mail address and I will send you a copy of our installation instructions-it may be what you are looking for.

After installing some of the cowl-mounted stanchions a few years back I would not do it again. I have seen some of them fair OK in a roll and I have seen some fail, but the ratio is not high enough for me to recommend them. If you ever look at the sheetmetal you bolt them to you will not be impressed.

**fratis** · 12-03-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limegreentj

i totally disagree! 90% DONT USE PIPE! no way...i use it on stingers, sliders and bumpers and it works great! but it is def. not stronger than tube. .... bull**** facts....do some research....

so you are telling me you knowingly use weaker material on the items that see the MOST abuse on every wheeling trip? a stinger by design takes an immense amount of force when "in use" and has the least amount of structural support. if it works "great" when the whole of the jeeps weight is on it, keeping the vehicle from going endo, why couldnt you build a triangulated structure with the same material and have it hold together in a flop? basically if you arent able to read between-the-lines you are admitting that your stingers are only built for show.

oteps · 12-03-2009, 01:47 PM

I am going to build a cage this winter out of pipe. I have read a lot about pipe vs. tube. I am not an engineer or a professional welder. If pipe is junk why do people use it for bumpers and sliders? From what I have read pipe is measured different than tube. It seems like a lot of people are worried more about what the cage is made of than how it is built and how it is tied into the frame. I know its about safety, but if I wanted to be safe I wouldnt drive a lifted cj down the road. And I hate when people just say pipe is for poop, I plumbed my house with pvc.

**zachv** · 12-03-2009, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oteps

I am going to build a cage this winter out of pipe. I have read a lot about pipe vs. tube. I am not an engineer or a professional welder. If pipe is junk why do people use it for bumpers and sliders? From what I have read pipe is measured different than tube. It seems like a lot of people are worried more about what the cage is made of than how it is built and how it is tied into the frame. I know its about safety, but if I wanted to be safe I wouldnt drive a lifted cj down the road. And I hate when people just say pipe is for poop, I plumbed my house with pvc.

I guess the question is "why" use pipe when tube is prevalent and easy to obtain? The issue with pipe is that to get anything worth using you have to have certs and know exactly what you are getting. You can obtain good tube from just about any fab shop or race car shop and go to town. Good 1.75x.120" DOM can be had for ~4$/foot and a typical cage uses ~100' so is $400 in materials too expensive for your life to count on? Also, most proper benders have dies built for tube.

I guess, to me, tube is actually an inconvenience to obtain and build withso I don't see the point. Sure, you can find pipe with the structural integrity to work, but is it just an "I told you so" kinda thing?