*Official* Cage idea/pic/discussion thread - Page 13 - JeepForum.com

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post #181 of 1109 Old 03-25-2007, 09:50 PM
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
Yeah.. I'm a believer in at least one diagonal (preferably an X) in a cage to keep it from "racking" over to one side. I've seen cages without a diagonal withstand a pretty good roll but usually you'll see it deformed afterwards whereas the cages with Xs hold up to repeated rolls/flops. Even at the expense of interior space, the cage for my CJ5 is gonna have an X in it.
hmmmm, how about a honeycomb, ie hexagon, shaped B-pillar? or even put the hex inside the pillar, which would probably be easier. something like this



you should retain quite a bit of strength like the X pattern, but you could still access the rear fairly easily. or even build in a single seat in the middle of the rear for a 3rd passenger without them having a set of cage members in their lap. who's feeling adventurous?


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post #182 of 1109 Old 03-26-2007, 05:06 AM
BESRK
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Build it out of toothpicks to see how rigid it is..

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #183 of 1109 Old 03-26-2007, 11:44 AM
55willystruck
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I'm still working on adding onto the stock rear hoop assembly, though my rig is a daily driver as well, that does need access to the back seat when my boy is in town. I generally run without the rear seat, but on the times that I do have my boy, he rides in the back. What would be the best option to run for side-side strength at this point, knowing that I need rear seat access on occassion? How strong would it be to run one diagonal from the upper corner behind the driver seat, down to the passenger lower footing? He could climb over that bar pretty easily I think. How stout would the cage be though if it took a hit from the passenger side upper corner? Does anybody have any pics of something that would work well for this situation? What about a 3/4 X for the time being-as in a full diagonal from top driver side to passenger foot, then the lower half on the driver side meeting the middle of the solid diagonal bar?

Also, my rig is an LJ, and I'm trying to make my addition work with the hardtop in place, and all factory features still working-as in seatbelts, window cranks, dash vents, etc., etc. In the rear of the vehicle where the rear bars angle down to the tub, there is about a foot of room at the top bend between it and the inside of the hard top. My plan here was to bend a tube in this fashion - \_/ , coming in slightly from each side, then shooting strait across the back. At each angle of the bends, I was then planning on running a strait bar down to the rear footing on each side, so from the back, it would look kinda like this: |/ \| My thought was I would have some angled pieces with support on the top rear bent section across the far back of the rig, yet still be able to access the tub area and all my gear. Does this sound OK, or would it be a waste of time/materials?

And, is there a thread or something in specific to look for to go about building frame-tie ins? How do you go about installing bushings between the tub, or what's the recommended way to tie into the frame?

Sorry for the dumb questions-trying to build something that will have at least some function to it based off my needs at the time, and hold up if needed. Definitely lots of good info in this thread.

Thanks very much,

Best of Luck,

Mike
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post #184 of 1109 Old 03-27-2007, 07:17 PM
dd214
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reason to get or build a cage

http://www.stu-offroad.com/images/vid/tracyroll.mpg

a vid of a nasty roll at hells revenge moab...they lived
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post #185 of 1109 Old 03-28-2007, 09:59 AM
BESRK
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Been working on a simple cage for the wife's (okay.. mine, but don't tell her) CJ5. Still have to add an X, shoulder harness bar and tie it into frame. Also just shot in Herc..



.. also cut the wheelwell a little to move the driver's seat back..


..wheelwell underside. You can also see the 1/4" thick angle that I used to bolt into for the main pillar. I'll tie this plate into the frame..


Mounted the seats to the cage.. seats were given to me by a buddy. Came out of his TJ..



'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #186 of 1109 Old 04-01-2007, 08:15 PM
NOVACAIN350
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Is there an inexpensive bender availabe to make these with?
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post #187 of 1109 Old 04-01-2007, 10:52 PM
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any pics/suggestions for xj cage???
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post #188 of 1109 Old 04-02-2007, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOVACAIN350
Is there an inexpensive bender availabe to make these with?
You can buy plans on ebay to make your own. You still have to buy the die however. That is the expensive part.
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post #189 of 1109 Old 04-03-2007, 09:32 AM
55willystruck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 ton yj
You can buy plans on ebay to make your own. You still have to buy the die however. That is the expensive part.
I got some plans off ebay and built my own bender-and yes, the die IS the expensive part!!! The bender I built is under rated though for 1.75"x.120 DOM tube-it uses a 12ton jack, which would be much better suited with a 20 ton setup. Plans stated they were good for this size tube, but once received, it was noted that 1.25" was the maximum. That size I can believe, but the 1.75" that I thought would work, doesn't very well. Has really made for a difficult time with building my own cage addition. The bender itself was cheap, as I already had basically all the material to build it, but like mentioned the die was expensive at around $240. You'd have to modify the plans, and overbuild it as well to make it work good for 1.75" tube.

Check out Pro-Tools for some decent benders. They have "hot deals", or specials at times that really are a great buy. The model 105 bender runs around $600"ish" for the complete setup with 1 die of your choice in size. I found a Christmas "Racer Special" that had the bender itself with I believe it was 5 die sizes and a copy of Bend Tech basic for $999 or something like that. Considering the dies are $200+ each, that was a great deal. Every now and then, they have something good on special that's worth checking out.

Best of Luck,

Mike
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post #190 of 1109 Old 05-20-2007, 08:17 AM
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I got this front cage kit from www.essentiallyoffroad.com

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post #191 of 1109 Old 05-20-2007, 06:47 PM
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SteveH, are you going to add a dash bar in there? They are really needed in a flop to add any strucural integrity.

Have a great day!!!
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post #192 of 1109 Old 05-20-2007, 08:00 PM
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Thanks for the comment.... yes I will be adding a dash bar, some gusseting, frame tie ins, maybe an X at the main hoop, rear bars and I'm thinking about plating the top in the middle and maybe gun drilling it. I agree it's definately not finished but it's a start.

I also plan on tieing the seats to the cage from underneath the floorboard, I have never seen it done that way but I am going to try it, maybe it's never been thought of before.
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post #193 of 1109 Old 05-22-2007, 11:09 AM
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenH
I also plan on tieing the seats to the cage from underneath the floorboard, I have never seen it done that way but I am going to try it, maybe it's never been thought of before.

Interesting. One thing I think is worth mentioning though.. in a super hard roll (like at highway speed), it wouldn't be hard for the body to separate from the frame. In that case, your seat mounting bracketry could (depending on how you design it) rip off. I prefer the "in-tub" style of running the tubes along the floor, tying between the pillars and mounting the seats to the "in-tub" cage work. That way, should a separation take place, you're in a caged-in "capsule" separated from the frame/drivetrain. Just something to consider when you design/fab it.

As for benders.. I believe you pretty much get what you pay for. I dished out about $600 for my Model 3 a couple years ago. That was for the bender and a 1.75"x5.5" die. No handle, no pedestal. I bought a $90 18" inch stroke air over hydraulic cylinder off eBay and used about $50 in scrap steel to make my own bending cart. It's on wheels, serves as a small table, has storage space under it it and bending is as simple as squeezing the handle. It's a little slower than manual bending but a whole lot easier and I think it's more accurate. Plus, once I'm done bending, I just push the cart out of the way. So, if you're crafty (I assume all reading this post are or else you wouldn't be in the fabrication section), for less than $800 you can have yourself a hydraulic bender that will do 1.75"x.188" DOM to at least 90 degrees (that's all I needed to bend it).. while you stand there squeezing the handle drinking a beer.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #194 of 1109 Old 06-02-2007, 10:03 AM
StevenH
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The way I was thinking about doing is running the seat bars directly under the body and putting brackets down there for the seats.. but thinking about it more the seat doesn't need to be on the risers anyway they will just crumble in an impact won't they?
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post #195 of 1109 Old 06-04-2007, 06:16 AM
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenH
The way I was thinking about doing is running the seat bars directly under the body and putting brackets down there for the seats.. but thinking about it more the seat doesn't need to be on the risers anyway they will just crumble in an impact won't they?
Probably. I've seen some pretty mangled seat risers... just from wheeling.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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