*Official* Cage idea/pic/discussion thread - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 1110 Old 03-10-2007, 06:17 PM
Phat Jeeps
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Keep this rollin, send more pics!

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post #167 of 1110 Old 03-11-2007, 08:57 PM
SlinkyTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachv
We just finished this a little while ago.









I'm really liking this one.. You've got some other similar ones on your site that are pretty sweet as well. I'm wanting to do something similar to this soon with a prerunner style tire carrier in the back... Kinda like the red one on your site, but with the tire lower.

'09 JK
Lockers and stuff
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post #168 of 1110 Old 03-12-2007, 06:06 PM
DeltaSigCJ5
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Cj5

Hey all... Newbie here! I just bought myself a '74 CJ5 and I am looking to build a cage. I want to keep my back seat and I want to know that I'll be safer than the stock roll bar when I do something stupid. Anyone have pics of a simple CJ5 cage. Preferrably and add-on. I just bought myself an HEI dist and some 5 point harnesses. I can't wait to get started. Any pics would be greatly appreciated! I am a college student so money is an issue!

Ryan
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post #169 of 1110 Old 03-13-2007, 02:11 AM
dd214
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how thick

it might be somewhere on this topic ... but how thick of round bar is effective when building a cage .....thanks
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post #170 of 1110 Old 03-13-2007, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dd214
it might be somewhere on this topic ... but how thick of round bar is effective when building a cage .....thanks
Most commonly used tube is 1.75ODx.120" wall. Also used a bunch is 1.5x.120".

Have a great day!!!
Zach Vaughn.

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post #171 of 1110 Old 03-13-2007, 10:20 AM
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I've followed some arguments saying that the tub should be isolated from the chassis because of flex and whatnot, but doesn't this become a non-issue once you start tying the cage in? If so, at what point?

Background:

In talking to people about my plan to tie my tube fenders into the radiator hoop up front (with 6 points tied in behind the firewall with either the rad hoop or fender tied through the firewall). Their immediate reaction is that my jeep will explode into shards of twisted metal because of chassis flex and fatigue.

Am I correct in assuming there's NO WAY I'm going to get enough movement for fatigue to become an issue? This is coming from not only wheelers, but who I'd consider experienced fabricators.

Am I missing something?


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post #172 of 1110 Old 03-13-2007, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommaho
I've followed some arguments saying that the tub should be isolated from the chassis because of flex and whatnot, but doesn't this become a non-issue once you start tying the cage in? If so, at what point?

Background:

In talking to people about my plan to tie my tube fenders into the radiator hoop up front (with 6 points tied in behind the firewall with either the rad hoop or fender tied through the firewall). Their immediate reaction is that my jeep will explode into shards of twisted metal because of chassis flex and fatigue.

Am I correct in assuming there's NO WAY I'm going to get enough movement for fatigue to become an issue? This is coming from not only wheelers, but who I'd consider experienced fabricators.

Am I missing something?
You will be fine. The issue comes when you hard mount say the A-pillar and nothing else. That can cause fatigue, but to be honest, it is hard to say how long even that would take to make a problem. When we do cage additions and the customer wants the A-pillar tied to the frame we will use a bushing and we usually use bushings on full cages tied in at 4-6 spots, but my personal rig is hard tied into the frame at 6 points.

Have a great day!!!
Zach Vaughn.

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post #173 of 1110 Old 03-17-2007, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommaho
Great thread - lets keep this alive.

Anyone have pics of frame tie-ins through tub mounted rockers? Did you also tie the cage into the rocker?
here ye go......
obviously not as pretty as zachs work, but is my first cage!!aswell as the first time using a bender and notcher.....
the rockers are mounted thru the tub, and tied to the frame front n back. the plate at the bottom of my dash bar then bolts to the rocker....if that makes sence?? pm me if you need any other info, as i dont get into the fab section too much, and it probably shows....
and dont blast me out cause of the welds, think i have a kink in the line, the welder is at the local miller dealer as we speak....hoping they are gonna fix it!!
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martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....

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post #174 of 1110 Old 03-21-2007, 09:45 PM
DeltaSigCJ5
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Cost?

Anyone know about how much it would cost to have a stock cj5 roll bar turned into a cage and tied in?
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post #175 of 1110 Old 03-21-2007, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaSigCJ5
Anyone know about how much it would cost to have a stock cj5 roll bar turned into a cage and tied in?
Probably around $600-$700 from most reputable shops.

Have a great day!!!
Zach Vaughn.

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post #176 of 1110 Old 03-22-2007, 01:52 AM
DeltaSigCJ5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachv
Probably around $600-$700 from most reputable shops.

But to do it myself? 300?
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post #177 of 1110 Old 03-22-2007, 08:23 AM
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Yeah, around there. If you can find a local to make the bends there really are not too many bends that are needed.

Have a great day!!!
Zach Vaughn.

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post #178 of 1110 Old 03-23-2007, 07:22 PM
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This thread was very helpful. I just had my cage done at Carolina Rockshop. I am going to take my 2yr old son out on the trails and I was looking for more safty than the stock cage.

Peter
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post #179 of 1110 Old 03-25-2007, 09:01 PM
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Any cage without at least one diagonal in the b-pillar is useless. Ninety-nine percent of rollovers land sideways and without any lateral support in the middle, the cage will fold like a wet taco. Doesn't matter what's above everything.

Here is mine. It's 2"x.120, 8 pt straight to the frame, no bushings. It's tied through the rock sliders in the front and tube to the frame in the back. It's been over hard a bunch of times and I'm constantly leaning it into rocks and trees and driving on it. We bent it front to back like a buggy isntead of side to side so it slides really easily. this weekend I dropped the dash bar to the top of the cowl and added windshield support, I'll update this when I get some daylight to take a picture.






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post #180 of 1110 Old 03-25-2007, 09:19 PM
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Yeah.. I'm a believer in at least one diagonal (preferably an X) in a cage to keep it from "racking" over to one side. I've seen cages without a diagonal withstand a pretty good roll but usually you'll see it deformed afterwards whereas the cages with Xs hold up to repeated rolls/flops. Even at the expense of interior space, the cage for my CJ5 is gonna have an X in it.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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