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post #1 of 12 Old 01-15-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
HanksRide
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Newbeeie Welder, Questions

Hello,

I have a only welded a few times in my life and nothing that really mattered.. I borrowed a crackerbox stick welder from a friend typical tombstone Lincoln machine.. I have two type rods I am playing with. I am doing an 8.8 swap and want to do all my own welding. I also have a few other projects around the house (tractors etc) that I need to do a little welding on before I tackle the 8.8. Today was day one and just practice steel.

I was using a 6011 rod with setting on 75 and just running a bead on flat 1/4 steel. I have a tendency for my rod to stick quite often. I later switched to a 7018 rod and tried different settings 90, 115 and 130 on the welder. How do I know when I have the right heat and why is my rod sticking a lot??


HanksRide
(Hank is Yellow Lab) He loves it!!
95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-15-2012, 10:12 PM
97xjsam
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First of all you should know what rods are for what application....6011 is a rod meant for welding in dirty situations like oil paint or grease. 7018 is a rod meant for structural work. For welding something that has a static or dynamic load 7018 does the job. Typically if your sticking your rods alot a couple factors come into play...do you have a clean ground connection is there rust and dirt under your ground clamp? Next what polarity are you running your machine with....sometimes having your heat too low results in your electrode sticking to the material. And lastly your brand new at this ...stick welding isn't easy even though every bro with his dads arc welder in the garage welding flat claims to be a master welder. It takes practice! Hope I was helpful
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-15-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
HanksRide
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97xjsam View Post
First of all you should know what rods are for what application....6011 is a rod meant for welding in dirty situations like oil paint or grease. 7018 is a rod meant for structural work. For welding something that has a static or dynamic load 7018 does the job. Typically if your sticking your rods alot a couple factors come into play...do you have a clean ground connection is there rust and dirt under your ground clamp? Next what polarity are you running your machine with....sometimes having your heat too low results in your electrode sticking to the material. And lastly your brand new at this ...stick welding isn't easy even though every bro with his dads arc welder in the garage welding flat claims to be a master welder. It takes practice! Hope I was helpful
Yes you were a lot of help but you also brought forth more questions..

I have read a ton on here about the different kind of rods and there uses. I think I have that covered in my mind.

Lets talk a little about the polarity?? I don't understand what you mean there.. Are you referring to how I have my plug wired up that is running the welder?? Please explain this, all the reading I have done on here it is the first time I have heard polarity. I had to do a little wiring to get this thing hooked up and BTW - I am no electrician either..

I understand it takes practice and I plan to do a lot of it.. And I know that sticking a rod can come from lack of experience, it just seems that mine were sticking more than normal. I did some welding at work the other day where some other guys were welding and they let me give it a try. I burned about 10 rods and don't remember ever sticking it a single time. But here at home with this setup I seem to do it quite often.

I guess all the reading I do on here tells me what things are for and what I should be doing but if I am not getting that result I can't find what I should be changing to correct it. I can't seem to find out what settings to put the welder on for which rods and types / thickness of material to weld.

Example:
1/4" dirty steel = 6011 / 1/8" rod, 75amps welding flat.

And if I go from a 6011 to a 7018 how much should I increase the amperage. I tried the 7018 1/8" rod on flat 1/4" steel on 75,90,105,115 and 130.. I really couldn't tell how the results were changing with these settings.. I assume the higher the amperage the hotter the arc, more splatter, more penetration but I am not sure..

These are the things I can't seem to find out here...

Tonight I welded a piece of 1/8" flat bar to the upper lip of my small tractor bucket that was also about 1/8". I got the job done, doesn't look to bad but not to good either. I am sure it will hold for what I need it to hold for. But during the welding I just kept fighting the sticking of the rod, mainly on restarts and not so much on a fresh rod. I used the 6011 1/8" rod with my setting on 75. I did notice that I was melting the steel a little to easily, I think I had a little to much rod and heat probably.

Anyway, sorry so long.. Any help will be appreciated...

Thanks,

HanksRide
(Hank is Yellow Lab) He loves it!!
95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 04:41 AM
Ironworker709
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He meant the polarity of the weld leads...your ground should be used on -..and the stinger on +....

Is this an AC only machine?..or the AC/DC?

If it's AC only..make sure you are using the 7018AC rods.....Big difference in giving advice in heat settings and the way to run it when it comes to being AC or DC...

There is a few things that causes sticking a rod..#1 problem is the user learning how to strike an arc with stick rod and get the rod running....
#2 is the heat(amps) being too low.
#3 slag puddle gets in front of the filler puddle
#4 re-using a rod after its already been used.

As far as re-using a rod,when we are doing a weld test on a job or doing a weldment that gets a UT or Xray,we NEVER re-use a rod,it causes porosity in the start of a weld..but practicing at home you'll be fine.otherwise your learning can get a little expensive on buying rods.

When re-using a rod...have a peice of hardwood around,run the end of the rod across the wood to rub off the flux just enough to expose the metal rod a little more,this way you won't have to tap the rod hard against the metal to get it started...you can also scrape it across the concrete floor,kind of like filing the flux off.........
When first starting your arc..use your main hand(i'mma lefty) to hold the stinger,the other hand to hold the end of the rod to steady it for the start,once you get it started,put both hands on the stinger to steady it a little more.....
Maybe later today when i get home from work,i'll take a few pics of what i mean and post it here...This is why in our apprenticeship classes they generaly have the students go right to learning a vertical first...

All machines run different when it comes to heat settings,so you'll generaly have to know an idea of the area to start with and then fine tune it ....DC 7018 3/32 rod i generaly start in the area of 80-90 amps or more,then fine tune once i get the feel of the machine.........1/8th rod in the area of 115-130...but everybody has their own preference of the actual heat settings..i like it a little hot,makes for a smooth arc and you know you have more than enough heat to penetrate and fusion insurance on all sides..

For learning the rod i always have the person turn the heat wayyyy up just so he doesn't get frustrated sticking the rod all the time and can start the rod alot easier,then once he learns how the animal of gettin the rod to start,then i'll have him turn it down to a setting more appropriate for the rod.

When first striking an arc,as soon as it arcs..raise the rod just a little higher from the work peice,not alot..just a little so the rod starts.,then bring it back down to the puddle..this is only like a split second....getting too far out of the puddle will cause porosity..if you get any,don't worry about it for now,your just learning how to get a rod started.

For practice and to learn the "eye" between the slag and filler puddle,put the practice peice on a slight angle upwards,like about an inch per foot and weld upwards on it,this will help the slag stay behind your puddle and it will run alot better and also start learning you to see the difference between the slag and filler puddle..

As far as AC welding i havent had to use AC stick welding in years,so i'll leave that end up to people who actualy have an AC machine at home and uses it regularly..and i do Have an AC/DC Lincoln Ranger 8 machine on a trailer here at home,i may get me a lil hand fill of 7018AC rods at a local farm supply store and run a few on AC just for the heck of it since it's been so long...

Have ALOT of patience when it comes to learning stick welding,always be in as comfortable a position possible so you can focus 100% on welding alone...and if you get frustrated,,take a break,,relax,and come back and try it again and it'll work much better

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 05:26 AM
Ironworker709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97xjsam View Post
First of all you should know what rods are for what application....6011 is a rod meant for welding in dirty situations like oil paint or grease. 7018 is a rod meant for structural work. For welding something that has a static or dynamic load 7018 does the job. Typically if your sticking your rods alot a couple factors come into play...do you have a clean ground connection is there rust and dirt under your ground clamp? Next what polarity are you running your machine with....sometimes having your heat too low results in your electrode sticking to the material. And lastly your brand new at this ...stick welding isn't easy even though every bro with his dads arc welder in the garage welding flat claims to be a master welder. It takes practice! Hope I was helpful
Glad to see another expereinced stick welder in here....

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
HanksRide
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
He meant the polarity of the weld leads...your ground should be used on -..and the stinger on +....

Is this an AC only machine?..or the AC/DC?

If it's AC only..make sure you are using the 7018AC rods.....Big difference in giving advice in heat settings and the way to run it when it comes to being AC or DC...

There is a few things that causes sticking a rod..#1 problem is the user learning how to strike an arc with stick rod and get the rod running....
#2 is the heat(amps) being too low.
#3 slag puddle gets in front of the filler puddle
#4 re-using a rod after its already been used.

As far as re-using a rod,when we are doing a weld test on a job or doing a weldment that gets a UT or Xray,we NEVER re-use a rod,it causes porosity in the start of a weld..but practicing at home you'll be fine.otherwise your learning can get a little expensive on buying rods.

When re-using a rod...have a peice of hardwood around,run the end of the rod across the wood to rub off the flux just enough to expose the metal rod a little more,this way you won't have to tap the rod hard against the metal to get it started...you can also scrape it across the concrete floor,kind of like filing the flux off.........
When first starting your arc..use your main hand(i'mma lefty) to hold the stinger,the other hand to hold the end of the rod to steady it for the start,once you get it started,put both hands on the stinger to steady it a little more.....
Maybe later today when i get home from work,i'll take a few pics of what i mean and post it here...This is why in our apprenticeship classes they generaly have the students go right to learning a vertical first...

All machines run different when it comes to heat settings,so you'll generaly have to know an idea of the area to start with and then fine tune it ....DC 7018 3/32 rod i generaly start in the area of 80-90 amps or more,then fine tune once i get the feel of the machine.........1/8th rod in the area of 115-130...but everybody has their own preference of the actual heat settings..i like it a little hot,makes for a smooth arc and you know you have more than enough heat to penetrate and fusion insurance on all sides..

For learning the rod i always have the person turn the heat wayyyy up just so he doesn't get frustrated sticking the rod all the time and can start the rod alot easier,then once he learns how the animal of gettin the rod to start,then i'll have him turn it down to a setting more appropriate for the rod.

When first striking an arc,as soon as it arcs..raise the rod just a little higher from the work peice,not alot..just a little so the rod starts.,then bring it back down to the puddle..this is only like a split second....getting too far out of the puddle will cause porosity..if you get any,don't worry about it for now,your just learning how to get a rod started.

For practice and to learn the "eye" between the slag and filler puddle,put the practice peice on a slight angle upwards,like about an inch per foot and weld upwards on it,this will help the slag stay behind your puddle and it will run alot better and also start learning you to see the difference between the slag and filler puddle..

As far as AC welding i havent had to use AC stick welding in years,so i'll leave that end up to people who actualy have an AC machine at home and uses it regularly..and i do Have an AC/DC Lincoln Ranger 8 machine on a trailer here at home,i may get me a lil hand fill of 7018AC rods at a local farm supply store and run a few on AC just for the heck of it since it's been so long...

Have ALOT of patience when it comes to learning stick welding,always be in as comfortable a position possible so you can focus 100% on welding alone...and if you get frustrated,,take a break,,relax,and come back and try it again and it'll work much better
Thanks Ironworker, your reputation seems to be held in high regard out here... It is nice to know that the pros will take a little time for folks like me..

I think I understand everything you are saying and it pointed out some of my mistakes.. One question when you are talking about laying the practice piece up hill slightly. This is my assumption, please correct if wrong.. I lay the piece in a manner that I am going to start on the uphill side with my bead and work to the down hill side, now I also assume that the piece is positioned so that I start my weld away from me and pull the stinger back toward myself (more front to back and not side to side) BTW - I am also a lefty in my right mind.. So basically I am asking to I go away and then draw back toward me or left to right when welding?? I know later on I will get into different situations that will require different angles and direction but for practice I am a little confused...

I really don't know if this is an AC/DC or just A/C, I will get some numbers and post them up.. Didn't know there was a difference until reading out here. I also couldn't tell you which type rods I have (AC or DC).. Soon as I get to the shop I will check all that out..


Thanks again..

HanksRide
(Hank is Yellow Lab) He loves it!!
95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 10:36 AM
97xjsam
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No you want to start on the down hill and weld up hill.... gravity is your friend. That's what keeps slag behind your puddle especially with 7018
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 12:30 PM
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Like 97xsam said..you want to run the weld uphill,and just for future reference,never run 7108 downhill if you ever get into that position and wonder about it.The slag runs in front of the puddle and causes slag inclusions and porosity and plus since the puddle runs so fast in front of it you get very minimum penetration/fusion because the arc is being flooded with the slag and puddle.

Generaly yes you want to pull towards you so you actualy see the puddle and what its doing,but you can also be at the side of it too as long as you can see the puddle itself and see the burn in and fill.It all boils down to alot of practice time and you'll start gettin the feel of where you should be at to see the puddle and what needs to be done.....

If that machine is an AC only it should say right on the front..AC..or if its AC/DC current..it will say that on it.
I learned on 1 back in the 70's in a garage.

If it's AC/DC,run the DC current..much more stable and smoother arc and is the common current used for stick welding..but AC works OK,it just runs alot different.

If the 7018 rods are AC rods..it will have AC after the number 7018..like...7018AC..........if it doesn't..those are the regular DC current E7018's........

Try to keep your rods in a sealed dry container,7018 doesn't like being in humidity,it eventualy ruins the flux coating because its well known to suck in moisture easily.

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 02:33 PM
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Hope I didn't step in your toes there ironworker709
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 05:35 PM
Ironworker709
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Hope I didn't step in your toes there ironworker709
None whatsoever,like i said..glad to see an expereinced/knowledgable stick welder here

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-16-2012, 07:37 PM
97xjsam
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Like wise, its a perishable skill and one I take alot of pride in
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-22-2012, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
HanksRide
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Well I have been playing with the welder on a lot of scrap and a few minor projects that doesn't really matter.. But today I got the nerve to weld my 8.8 axle tubes in.. It is not pretty but I can live with it and I do think it is strong enough..

Let me know what you think... No cracked welds so that is a plus..






HanksRide
(Hank is Yellow Lab) He loves it!!
95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch

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