[lupinsea]

Originally Posted by jeepsterjc

Hi there. Eves may be nice but if I use concrete based siding or steel it won't matter. That's one reason I'm splurging on the 3 foot knee walls. Splash won't be an issue and the wood frame 8 foot wall will stay nice and dry. Drainage is a zero issue as well.

If I do increase the effective rafter length I increase the roofing required then everything compounds.

Sadly, I'm limited to 16' 3" total height. I'll be installing transparent panels in with the steel roofing for natural lighting. I agree that natural light is a biggie. The panels will be placed on the right roof slope. This faces the south and any rascals throwing rocks from the alley side- the left side- will only hit steel roofing.

I never considered a door taller than 8 feet. It is ordered now... There sure is a difference in cost between a 7 foot door and an 8 foot door, it seems.

I'll get pics of my hoist posted tomorrow I think. The backhoe fellow I hired did a great job. The grade is perfect. He brought in 66 yards of drain rock and road base material. There is so much room in the back yard it looks like a 747 could land back there!!

Sweet. Sounds like you got it covered. The translucent roof panels should be sweet and I'd love to see pictures when you're done with construction.

Your 8 ft door will definitely be worth it vs. the 7 ft. I have a 7 ft door and while it's not a problem fitting my slightly lifted Jeep through the door opening, the garage door opener has an L-shaped arm that hangs down about 6". Things get VERY tight overhead because of it.

Have you though about running the garage door tracks up higher before they bend 90 deg for the horizontal run? This'll give you more overhead clearance near the door opening. Might need stronger springs or to wind them up a tad more for a bit more pre-load, though.

[jeepsterjc]

Originally Posted by lupinsea

Sweet. Sounds like you got it covered. The translucent roof panels should be sweet and I'd love to see pictures when you're done with construction.

Your 8 ft door will definitely be worth it vs. the 7 ft. I have a 7 ft door and while it's not a problem fitting my slightly lifted Jeep through the door opening, the garage door opener has an L-shaped arm that hangs down about 6". Things get VERY tight overhead because of it.

Have you though about running the garage door tracks up higher before they bend 90 deg for the horizontal run? This'll give you more overhead clearance near the door opening. Might need stronger springs or to wind them up a tad more for a bit more pre-load, though.

That's a good thought about the door rails going higher. I'll check into that tomorrow. Thanks.

[lupinsea]

We designed a house for a client where their 3-car garage was vaulted and the owner wanted to install a basket ball hoop for his daughters in side. We ended up having the door tracks follow the slope of the room. It required heavier duty motors since there was more verticle weight to support. Where as doors that follow a normal 90 degree track have less vertical door weight to lift the further up they're rolled.

[jeepsterjc]

OK- progress... My volunteer time of 4 days away from home is over and I'm back at it. DIY forming for the 36 inch kneewalls will begin tomorrow- in the rain...

[jeepsterjc]

Progress and one question.

I've ordered an 8' tall garage door and want to run it vertically 5 feet above the header beam when raising it before it turns 90 degrees for the last 3 foot horizontal run to extend to a fully opened position.

I can cut 5 feet off of the overhead rails and weld them to the lower vertical run to make 13 feet total approximate height.

How screwed up will my overhead spring get. Is it possible to tension it to allow/assist the door to open and close?

Thanks, Jim

[jeepsterjc]

The knee wall pour is finished with no problems. I had a pumper truck do it @ 2.5 hrs minimum call out for a total about $400 total charge. The walls are 8" by 38 tall and took 7 meters. I had the operator add 5 more liters of medium to thin it out and make the pour easier. It flowed really thin and fast. I was concerned that the really feeble old rental forms couldn't take the load but they held.

The hoist gets craned from the front driveway to the centre of the slab this week before the walls go up. I'm picking up the garage door today. The first one was eaten by a forklift... As it turns out I should have asked for a "high lift" door package. It is the type that would climb straight up the wall. It isn't offered for residential and I didn't think to ask when it was ordered... I'll cut my rails and weld the verticals to a longer length.

Thanks lupinsea for the idea ;-)

[Slawth]

Looks great. Congrats on the soon to be new man cave.

[jeepsterjc]

Originally Posted by Slawth

Looks great. Congrats on the soon to be new man cave.

Man cave! lol Before I got in the front door of Home Depot I spoted my new garage windows! one 3x3' and 2 72x40 horizontal sliders! Picked up the garage door and the rest of the cement siding.

Next I strip all the forms crane in the hoist and then put up the framing! Woohoo

[jgorm]

Nice!! I bought a lift (4 post) a few years ago. Best $1500 ever spent. I pulled a H pipe off my mustang on jack stands, and said never again. The mustang has been ocupying the lift for a few months now, but when its done i can DD that and put the jeep on the lift for a while!!

[jeepsterjc]

Originally Posted by jgorm

Nice!! I bought a lift (4 post) a few years ago. Best $1500 ever spent. I pulled a H pipe off my mustang on jack stands, and said never again. The mustang has been ocupying the lift for a few months now, but when its done i can DD that and put the jeep on the lift for a while!!

I'll have the walls going up soon. The lower forms are such a drag pulling up. My back is killing me. The last big job I did on my YJ was doing the ring and pinion re-gearing and putting in the posi. I pulled the Jeep off of the jack stands 4 times. It missed me all 4 times... The hoist will be nice alright.

Here is the progress-

[drewmatika]

Only wish i could have a lift at home.

[jeepsterjc]

OK, well, after rain, snow and generally bad weather work has been slow. You can see the hoist, still in its steel pallet assembly, has been craned onto the garage slab. The walls are up. You can see my ply-beam sections on edge ready to go up...

The hoist is about 2 weeks away at best. Oh well. Roof and hoist- then siding and finishing!

[jeepsterjc]

Main beam and rafters tomorrow. I used my CAD program to draw up a framing plan of the little gable end triangles. I snapped off the angled stud dimensions and their locations on the bottom plates and sloping top plates. I cut all of the pieces and laid them out then air nailed them like it was a kit- it went together so easily and fast (for one guy)!

[mikebigh]

That is AWESOME. Hell of a DIY I gotta say. One day I will have a structure to house my lift, can't say I will build it myself, I mean I can frame a door.......sorta. MORE PICS!!!!!!!!!!

[jeepsterjc]

Originally Posted by mikebigh

That is AWESOME. Hell of a DIY I gotta say. One day I will have a structure to house my lift, can't say I will build it myself, I mean I can frame a door.......sorta. MORE PICS!!!!!!!!!!

Hi there. If a person can pull a tcase or fix a u-joint a garage is also doable I think! I suck at installing doors.

I've been too busy at work and the volunteer time also digs into the construction schedule!

I've craned in the two long beams. The mezzanine beam is clear span 22 feet. It will provide 150 square feet of storage at 9 feet above floor level. I tried to get the rafters up by myself but they were too heavy to put up by myself. Boohoo...

I'm attaching a few pics of where I'm at... The hoist is just screaming at me to set it up!

I'll put the mezzanine flooring in and then use it to more safely get the rafters in place.









Copyright Jim Christiansen 2009