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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 03-23-2009, 10:29 PM   #1
jeepsterjc
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New garage with lift!

I thought I clicked post when my wife said "Let's go..." but I guess I lost the post. I hope this isn't duplicated.

I'm 50 plus years old and after working on my back on frozen or wet ground for years I've decided to spoil myself. I've had 12 Design students put drawings together for a 22x22 garage with 8 foot frame walls on top of a slab with 24 inch knee walls.

Inside I'll have a 10000 lb 2 pole hoist!! Woohoo! The hoist is delivered and the garage door is coming...

I think I'll leave it uninsulated for a few years.

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Unread 03-31-2009, 10:47 PM   #2
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effin' sweet!...you're livin' the dream!
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Unread 04-01-2009, 11:43 AM   #3
ritjobbie
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Pics!?

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Unread 04-01-2009, 11:48 AM   #4
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pics man!

we want pics...
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Unread 04-01-2009, 08:25 PM   #5
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My buddy's dad has that same setup. He has a drag car and he is able to pull the engine and manipulated the car by himself. They build this garage and then added a living quarter upstairs. It's the ultimate garage with office and machine shop included. Congrats. I'm jealous.
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Unread 04-01-2009, 10:55 PM   #6
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ok- pics coming... backhoe tomorrow and the crane truck dropped the load on our front sidewalk 6 days ago
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Unread 04-01-2009, 11:01 PM   #7
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Want to see a design for a 22x22 garage that is based on zero garbage almost no cutting? I drew up a section that is based on 12 foot rafters, roof panels and 8 foot concrete 4x8 siding or metal with purlins... sitting on a 36 inch concrete knee wall. Siding still undecided. No soffits or eaves. I think it's a fast and efficient build.
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Unread 04-02-2009, 11:45 PM   #8
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Here are some pics of the progress.

Pic 1- The backhoe took out 30 feet of my sewer line. It was paper thin old black abs and couldn't survive under a driveway anyway... I installed that super tough green thick walled sewer line. It'll last for as long as I live, I hope!

The next pic is of my new power conduit going in and the yellow natural gas line that we had to skirt around.

The last pic is my design... Don't laugh too soon. What I did was make my 22x22 foot structure fit with the use of 12 ft lumber and roofing- no waste. The structure sits on 8 inch by 3 ft tall knee walls. Rafters and collar ties give about 13 feet of hoisting height. There are no eves and no sofits. Maybe no troughs either, I haven't decided. You can see I've removed all of the top soil and put down about 10-12 inches of drain rock. I have weeping tile Big-O piping in place. Drainage won't be a problem. I've tried to economize everywhere without compromising our needs. The knee walls could be 6 inch but I'm going 8 inch.

I don't think it looks too ugly. What do you think?







Hoist pics to come!
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Unread 04-03-2009, 12:34 PM   #9
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Very very cool. Though I'd recommend a taller door if you can find one as long as you're putting in a new garage door.

I like the idea of working within the available stock lumber sizes.

Another thought is to extend the eaves slightly as that will go a long way to protect the siding on your walls to keep it in good condition longer. If you don't want the deep 2x10 rafter tails you could notch them so that the rafter tails are a smaller dimension on the overhang.

Any thoughts on installing a series of clerestory windows on the left wall of the section? It's 11ft tall. You could use the lower 7-8 ft to put work benches or storage against and the upper 3-4ft zone would be good for some windows to bring a lot of natural light into the garage. Perhaps a row of 4-5 square 1.5 - 2 ft window evenly spaced out. Maybe a nice square window over the garage door, too. Watch on craigslist.org for people selling used window. You can usually get a good variety for pretty decent prices. This was my plan for my tool shed until the economy put things on hold.
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Unread 04-03-2009, 11:34 PM   #10
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Hi there. Eves may be nice but if I use concrete based siding or steel it won't matter. That's one reason I'm splurging on the 3 foot knee walls. Splash won't be an issue and the wood frame 8 foot wall will stay nice and dry. Drainage is a zero issue as well.

If I do increase the effective rafter length I increase the roofing required then everything compounds.

Sadly, I'm limited to 16' 3" total height. I'll be installing transparent panels in with the steel roofing for natural lighting. I agree that natural light is a biggie. The panels will be placed on the right roof slope. This faces the south and any rascals throwing rocks from the alley side- the left side- will only hit steel roofing.

I never considered a door taller than 8 feet. It is ordered now... There sure is a difference in cost between a 7 foot door and an 8 foot door, it seems.

I'll get pics of my hoist posted tomorrow I think. The backhoe fellow I hired did a great job. The grade is perfect. He brought in 66 yards of drain rock and road base material. There is so much room in the back yard it looks like a 747 could land back there!!
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Unread 04-04-2009, 08:21 PM   #11
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Hoist pics and 1000 ft of rebar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Contra View Post
pics man!

we want pics...
OK... here is the hoist and I had my rebar and form stock delivered today.

http://www.christiansens.ca/images/1000-feet-rebar.jpg



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Unread 04-05-2009, 03:13 PM   #12
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Wow. I've always thought about doing this when I get older, so i'll be watching this thread. How much is all this going to cost you (if you don't mind me asking)
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Unread 04-05-2009, 03:36 PM   #13
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Sorry for the semi hijack.

I'm considering putting a two post lift in my shop and I'm wondering if you went with a hydraulic or screw type?
Also what brand did you buy and where did you get it?

Any advice you can give about lifts would be appreciated.


On another note, please reconsider the insulation. I did the same thing you are doing and decided I'd insulate it later. It's been 19 years, and with all the stuff that's in the way it will be a real pain to insulate now. That's one of two regrets I have about it, the other being that I didn't build bigger. It's 30x60 and I wish I had gone 40x80.
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Unread 04-05-2009, 09:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provinT13 View Post
Wow. I've always thought about doing this when I get older, so i'll be watching this thread. How much is all this going to cost you (if you don't mind me asking)
I don't mind you asking. Just don't wait too long. I should have done this before rebuilding our house- 10 years ago...

I figure that the cost will be somewhere around $10,000. This will include the site prep and the hoist, but I've just put in 66 yards of drain rock and road bed fill instead of the planned 33 yards...
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Unread 04-05-2009, 09:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiredOldMan View Post
Sorry for the semi hijack.

I'm considering putting a two post lift in my shop and I'm wondering if you went with a hydraulic or screw type?
Also what brand did you buy and where did you get it?

Any advice you can give about lifts would be appreciated.


On another note, please reconsider the insulation. I did the same thing you are doing and decided I'd insulate it later. It's been 19 years, and with all the stuff that's in the way it will be a real pain to insulate now. That's one of two regrets I have about it, the other being that I didn't build bigger. It's 30x60 and I wish I had gone 40x80.
Hi there. This is a "10,000" lb hoist that the company says is more capable than eBay 9000 pounders. After comparing the prices I went with this one. I bought it from Carlift.ca. It cost $3600 including shipping. This isn't too bad compared to ordering from eBay and paying shipping, exchange rate, duty and taxes, plus unloading in the USA and reloading onto another trailer then crossing through Canadian Customs...

I purchased the two pole hoist type that leaves the floor clear underneath. There are no cable or lines that transit from pole to pole at floor level. I'm always hauling engines and trannies in/out, it seems, and hate having the floor obstructed. Instead the hoist passes its cable between the poles overhead. The overhead brace lifts as the poles raise. I can get a very huge vehicle on the hoist so I'm happy with my choice.

I know what you mean about insulating it while it is going up and empty... I had been thinking about having it spray poly-foamed by a local fellow who did our basement. This means I'ld have to close it up and more cost... Life certainly is a series of compromises, isn't it? ;-)
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