Would some of the welding experts here be kind enough to give me a recommendationi on how to weld this up without warping it so bad it doesn't fit anymore?
The application is a crossmember for a TJ engine swap project intended for daily driving and light wheeling.
Plate will be bolted to frame through sleeved holes (not drilled yet), tube is currently tacked to plate. Plate-to-frame tacks will be ground off after I get it drilled, just to keep my holes lined up.
Tube is 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 1/4"
Plate is 3/16"
I have at home:
- A Miller 135 with .030" solid ER70S-6, and years of practice
- Ability to run .035 flux core, but I've never done it
- A Victor oxy-acetylene rig for preheating
At work, I have access to a Miller Synchrowave 250 DX TIG, but I just learned how to use it this year. I've done 1/4" with it (all flat or fillet), and I still undercut the edges of my beads sometimes.
So which option will get me a strong crossmember that will fit in the same spot after welding?
A. Keep it in the frame, preheat with the torch, then fill the bevel with several passes with my 110V welder
B. Take it out of the frame, and bring it into work after hours to lay a serious bead with the TIG
C. Give up and take it to a pro?
Sorry, let me clear that up a bit.
I'm trying to figure out the beads in red, particularly between the tube and the plate. I'm worried that laying multi-pass in the bevel at the end of the tube is going to cause the plate to warp away from the frame. Also, I'm slightly less concerned that filling in the cuts in the bend will make the whole crossmember warp away from the frame rails.
I'd tack it all real good in place where it will bolt to the frame..GOOD SIZED tacks...weld it all up in place..let cool all night or at least a few good hours...then cut the tacks to the frame loose and clean it up and continue on..
If it is warped enough to concern you in where you want it to bolt,use a torch to heat a little "V" on the side you want to bend back...don;t do it cherry red..just enough where the steel turns a different color..immediatly use a soak n wet rag to cool that spot,,it'll move back...
Do little section at a time untill you have it where you want it.
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Take a grinder and round the corners on the part you are welding to the frame or you will get cracks there( ) not l l
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Thanks for the tips. Here's a better picture of the gap I need to fill between the tube & plate. The tube is beveled and the gap is about 1/4" at the top of the bevel, and in some spots around the tube there's up to 1/8" gap between the bottom of the bevel and the plate
This is the best quality stuff I can do with my skill level & machine..
..but this is what I more commonly end up with (this shot is in-process, still have two edges to weld up)
I agree too many people get hung up on 220V vs 110V. You should be fine. i would pull the crossmember out and redo the tack up including tape on the framerails. The idea is to build up the tape to mimic the thickness that the paint will take up on either piece as well as giving a bit of room to work with once you want to bolt it back on. If the framerails have to squeeze in 1/8" when bolted no big deal. This will also allow you to reduce the gaps in your original tack-up.
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