My flat skid build - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 72 Old 11-09-2008, 08:28 PM
JeepRocks86
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looks good.


Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
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post #32 of 72 Old 11-10-2008, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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sorry no progress guys! im going to get it done during thanksgiving break!
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post #33 of 72 Old 11-25-2008, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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project is going to get started tomorrow, hopefully all goes well!!!
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post #34 of 72 Old 11-25-2008, 10:02 PM
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Sweet, I cant wait to see some pics. Ill be starting mine with'n the next few weeks.

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post #35 of 72 Old 11-26-2008, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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well ****! i have everything to do it but im stuck in a big hole and dont know what do to. my driveline angle is crazy! My double carden at my Tcase is at a crazy angle and when lifted so high the shifted is way into the dash when shifting. I may have to bend the tube down and inch and not go completely flat! Or adj my upper control arms and/or get a 1" motor mount lift.
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post #36 of 72 Old 11-26-2008, 03:43 PM
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Make sure and post when you're done. I'll be starting mine soon.

John 3:17
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post #37 of 72 Old 11-26-2008, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Make sure and post when you're done. I'll be starting mine soon.
I wish i could get it done!!! i mean how much of an angle can a double carden rear shaft take?
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post #38 of 72 Old 11-26-2008, 10:11 PM
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Do you have a body lift ?

Your prolly gunna need a mml.

Today i unbolted my trans from my stock skid and jacked it up to see how much clearence i can get, it didnt look good either. I didnt have a problem with my shifter though but my drive shaft angle was friggin nuts.... but i dont have an sye, yet. I do though have a body lift 1" and 1" mml. Im hoping with the sye and some degree shims for my springs (leaf sprung) it should work.

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post #39 of 72 Old 11-26-2008, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i have a 1" body lift, but hopfully this week i can get around to buying some 1" think aluminum to build a mml.
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post #40 of 72 Old 11-27-2008, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
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i mean how much of an angle can a double carden rear shaft take?
I'm not exactly sure, but it seems like you would be better off than most with a HP9. Then again, maybe that doesn't make a difference with a DC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by www.4xshaft.com
How much lift can install or Do I need the CV to run at a high angle? Keep in mind that 1310 CV drive shaft will flex to about 30 degrees prior to binding. If you need to have more than this, We suggest that some machining and grinding work be done to the CV prior to assembly. This will typically allow for about 35 degrees of flexibility to the CV prior to binding. This additional grind work adds $70.00. It is generally suggested to have this work done on TJ applications having more than 5-1/2" of lift either a long arm kit or a belly up kit or any TJ application having more than 6-1/2.of lift.
Please refer to this link to help determine if you would need or benefit from this higher flexibility: Slopes VS Angles
Remember too that this procedure will allow the most flexibility possible. There is a possibility that you may still experience a binding problem in certain circumstances. After installation of the drive shaft at the transfer case end, proceed with the following test: Jack the vehicle up and let the suspension hang freely. Check to make sure the drive shaft will connect to the pinion and still rotate by hand with no binding. If this occurs, We recommend that you place a single limit strap directly over the center of the differential. This will still allow for a near full wheel articulation but prevent the entire differential from dropping to the point where you would experience a binding problem with the drive shaft.

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post #41 of 72 Old 11-27-2008, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not exactly sure, but it seems like you would be better off than most with a HP9. Then again, maybe that doesn't make a difference with a DC.
nice artical from tom woods, i may grind some of my rear cv a little bit so i can get more degree out of it.
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post #42 of 72 Old 11-28-2008, 06:19 PM
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I am currently going though this issue with my flat skid and RE 4.5" lift. I had my U joints go out with less than 1000 miles on my Double Cardian shaft. Had it rebuilt and now its vibrating with about another 1000 miles on it. Both times it started acting up was after a weekend of wheeling.

That is with the Unlimited's 10" extra wheel base, 5" of lift and raising the Trans mount 2.5" (4" due to the skid minus 1.5" from the 33 engineering mount).

While I was unable to feel it binding while on the ground, the shop doing my gears is pretty sure that is the issue and is sending it back to Tom Woods for grinding and another rebuild.

You may not be able to get it on the frame rails with a low pinion axle. I would definitely suggest making the lowest profile mount you can.
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post #43 of 72 Old 11-29-2008, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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really! that sucks about your experience with the flat skid with the lift!

I have another plan is not to build a crossmember and just mount it all to the skid like stock. But again the skid bottom will be flat just not flat with the frame rails! Also when i cut my skid out it was all set up for a flat skid so cant really double bend it to drop it down. So may get some 1" think steel bar and just weld it on to the skid so it will drop the skid down 1".
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post #44 of 72 Old 12-01-2008, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
I am currently going though this issue with my flat skid and RE 4.5" lift. I had my U joints go out with less than 1000 miles on my Double Cardian shaft. Had it rebuilt and now its vibrating with about another 1000 miles on it. Both times it started acting up was after a weekend of wheeling.

That is with the Unlimited's 10" extra wheel base, 5" of lift and raising the Trans mount 2.5" (4" due to the skid minus 1.5" from the 33 engineering mount).

While I was unable to feel it binding while on the ground, the shop doing my gears is pretty sure that is the issue and is sending it back to Tom Woods for grinding and another rebuild.

You may not be able to get it on the frame rails with a low pinion axle. I would definitely suggest making the lowest profile mount you can.
Do you have adjustable control arms? Sounds like you need to change your pinion angle.

I am also doing a flat belly pan. This is going on my YJ. I already installed the 1" Body lift and the 1" MM lift. I had some issues with my weld bungs (for the stock cross member) which I finished up on Friday. I am planning on getting the steel tomarrow so hopefully I will be done with it sometime this weekend. I will post pictures when done.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #45 of 72 Old 12-02-2008, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Do you have adjustable control arms? Sounds like you need to change your pinion angle.

I am also doing a flat belly pan. This is going on my YJ. I already installed the 1" Body lift and the 1" MM lift. I had some issues with my weld bungs (for the stock cross member) which I finished up on Friday. I am planning on getting the steel tomarrow so hopefully I will be done with it sometime this weekend. I will post pictures when done.
Yup adjustable uppers and lowers front and rear. My pinion angle is set to 1* less than my drive shaft angle.

But thats a different thread
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