My flat skid build - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 72 Old 09-28-2008, 09:41 PM
Scotch740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTJ35 View Post
whoa very nice! I like the crossmember set up of having the bushing soild mounted and just the bar unboltable. hows that work for ya. why didnt you make the bar and bushings unboltable?

To me the way you did it seems sooo much easier than the way i was thinking of doing it! I will be thinking this over hopfully ill have my mind made up by the time it comes to weld it all up.

Another thing is i hope i dont have to make any exhaut modifications!!
I used the 33 eng. tranny mount which is also the shorter exhaust hanger. You may have to shorten your hanger, if its mounted the same as on the 05s. Then when I put my lift on my track bar was running straight through the exhaust. So I cut the exhaust off and was going to have it re done. Before I did that though my exhaust melted a shock bushing, body lift puck, and evap line from the gas tank. So if you do have to cut it off put a down turn on it even if your just planing on it being temporary.

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post #17 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 02:24 PM
JJs99TJ
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Originally Posted by dennis690 View Post
I made a cross member almost the same as you are doing. When I installed a Klune V I used the Klune mount as the main attach point. So far it's worked great.



I used the old mounting locations for the skid just made the skid longer. I had to cut a slot for the front drive shaft (not in this picture) It's 1/4" plate.
Man Dennis that's pretty nice. I know your a member of the local club @
NMVJC.org but I dont see you post much, or I just dont pay enough
attention maybe? Eh... wanna help me build one of those?

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oman, what happened in the wreck? i see it bent your bumper, did you hit a camel?
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post #18 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 04:52 PM
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I'm not trying to start an argument here at all so please be nice!

I am guessing these Jeep chassis are pretty darn rigid or possibly the large flat skid adds the rigidity to the chassis so it does not flex? And I am sure people have not had issues with this cause I have seen many do it. But mounting an object via 4 points between 2 rails which can flex can be a problem. No razzing here, but look at virtually any power plant in a truck, pickup, car, even many motorcycles and you will see the power plant is mounted in a triangulated manner so the frame rails can flex and the power plant can flex between those rails. I mounted a diesel engine and big 5 speed trans in my old '74 Dodge 2500 club cab and the cross member at the trans looked almost identical to the pic above. It tore the bolts out of the trans in less than a week. Engine turning on it's axis and the frame rails flexing=failed bolts. I understand the poly bushing offer much less flex to the power plant, but what keeps the frame from flexing?

2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #19 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 05:06 PM
dennis690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJs99TJ View Post
Man Dennis that's pretty nice. I know your a member of the local club @
NMVJC.org but I dont see you post much, or I just dont pay enough
attention maybe? Eh... wanna help me build one of those?
Sure man, drop me a PM on the local board.

92 YJ on 35s
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post #20 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 05:16 PM
dennis690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post

I'm not trying to start an argument here at all so please be nice!

I am guessing these Jeep chassis are pretty darn rigid or possibly the large flat skid adds the rigidity to the chassis so it does not flex? And I am sure people have not had issues with this cause I have seen many do it. But mounting an object via 4 points between 2 rails which can flex can be a problem. No razzing here, but look at virtually any power plant in a truck, pickup, car, even many motorcycles and you will see the power plant is mounted in a triangulated manner so the frame rails can flex and the power plant can flex between those rails. I mounted a diesel engine and big 5 speed trans in my old '74 Dodge 2500 club cab and the cross member at the trans looked almost identical to the pic above. It tore the bolts out of the trans in less than a week. Engine turning on it's axis and the frame rails flexing=failed bolts. I understand the poly bushing offer much less flex to the power plant, but what keeps the frame from flexing?
No argument forth coming either.

I can see what your saying and there may be something to it. I may need to deal with problems later but haven't seen any yet. My cage is tied to the frame in 4 places which help stiffen things up as well as the skid.

To your point. I had a 73 CJ 5 that I put a solid mounted 289. When going over a washboard road or getting some flex you had to watch your knee from getting hit from the shifter. That thing had some stiff springs and a flexy frame. Also the cage was just bolted to the body.

I'll let you guys know if anything fails. I hit it fairly hard this weekend and only killed the plastic line to the rear ARB.

92 YJ on 35s

Last edited by dennis690; 09-29-2008 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Remove picture
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post #21 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 06:01 PM
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I don't think you will have any problems either. I bet the roll cage and skid add a lot there to take out flex.

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6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #22 of 72 Old 09-29-2008, 08:34 PM
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I think you guys may be missing the point. *shrug*

No matter how many points you have tied in to the frame from the rollcage, the engine and drivetrain will still want to flex in relation to the solid chassis. This is why the stock tranny mounts have a bushing there.

Not sure if this set up would cause any problems with a solid mount there or not.

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post #23 of 72 Old 10-01-2008, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Just a question what can i do with the brake lines and fuel lines running down the frame rail? can they be easily moved?
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post #24 of 72 Old 10-01-2008, 10:07 PM
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I didn't have any problems getting mine out of the way. They may run differently on the YJ though.

92 YJ on 35s
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post #25 of 72 Old 10-19-2008, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTJ35 View Post
I have a 2000 Wrangler and im in the process of building a flat skid I have all the materials to start but being at school really limits my time. Ill try and do a write up ASAP.

Heres a pic of the tabs I made for the bushings.

Any updates on your project?

92 YJ on 35s
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post #26 of 72 Old 10-20-2008, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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No i have been in school but will try to get it going soon.
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post #27 of 72 Old 10-23-2008, 09:28 PM
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i am very interested in duplicating your design. where did you get your bushings and any other parts that you couldnt fab yourself? how much tuck did you get with your design?
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post #28 of 72 Old 10-24-2008, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTJ35 View Post
Just a question what can i do with the brake lines and fuel lines running down the frame rail? can they be easily moved?
Would it be possible to mount the bushings vertically so the lines can pass through the tabs? Just a thought.

John 3:17
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post #29 of 72 Old 10-24-2008, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NMLJ View Post
i am very interested in duplicating your design. where did you get your bushings and any other parts that you couldnt fab yourself? how much tuck did you get with your design?
I got the bushings from polyperformance. And thats the only part i bought. I dont know how much ill get im saying 3" of extra clearance.
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post #30 of 72 Old 11-01-2008, 09:14 PM
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I'm starting this project this week. I am tossing around the different designs for the transmission mounts and just cant make up my mind. I would like to retain the "3-point" type mount, but with retaining the factory mount is taller than I like and it puts my drive line angles more than I am comfortable with in both the front and back. Any ideas on shortening the factory mount, or something equal. I know I can drop the skid down an inch or so, but I want it flat.
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