My flat skid build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 72 Old 09-16-2008, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
PBR
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My flat skid build

I have a 2000 Wrangler and im in the process of building a flat skid I have all the materials to start but being at school really limits my time. Ill try and do a write up ASAP.

Heres a pic of the tabs I made for the bushings.

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post #2 of 72 Old 09-16-2008, 10:45 AM
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good luck
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post #3 of 72 Old 09-16-2008, 11:43 AM
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Are you planning on using the bushings on the frame side as in the outside?

I always worry about that. To me a proper mounted power plant is triangulated as in 3 points of contact. As the frame twists with a 4 point mount something has got to give. The power-plant also twists in the frame. As you apply torque to the drive line the engine and trans "rocks" in the cradle. Just my 2 cents worth.

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post #4 of 72 Old 09-16-2008, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Are you planning on using the bushings on the frame side as in the outside?

I always worry about that. To me a proper mounted power plant is triangulated as in 3 points of contact. As the frame twists with a 4 point mount something has got to give. The power-plant also twists in the frame. As you apply torque to the drive line the engine and trans "rocks" in the cradle. Just my 2 cents worth.
Im going to mount the bushings inside the frame rails and going to run a piece a tube across to each one to mount my trans to. Im going to get rid of the trans mount since I have both those poly bushings. I talked to the guys on pirate and blue torch fab and they say it should work great if I have poly motor mounts, which I do.
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post #5 of 72 Old 09-16-2008, 08:30 PM
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Nice, look forward to this as I have been considering something similar.

What are you doing for the lines down the driver side, have you already relocated them?
Whats the cross memeber's location going to be in relation to the bottom of the frame rails? Also is it going to be one continuous tube or are you going to have it meet a plate in the middle?

And I know how it is being at school without tools, I miss my welder

What are you using to plate it? Should look for some aluminum and oil impregnated UHMW.
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post #6 of 72 Old 09-17-2008, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch740 View Post
Nice, look forward to this as I have been considering something similar.

What are you doing for the lines down the driver side, have you already relocated them?
Whats the cross memeber's location going to be in relation to the bottom of the frame rails? Also is it going to be one continuous tube or are you going to have it meet a plate in the middle?

And I know how it is being at school without tools, I miss my welder

What are you using to plate it? Should look for some aluminum and oil impregnated UHMW.

Yeah i have to do something with the lines running down the drivers side frame rail. But hopefully ill be lucky and not have to do much to them. I hoping to just run the tube strait across and not have to bend it with a plate holding the trans.

I got 3/8" hot rolled now since I got it for free. But if I can get some 1/4" aluminum plate for free Ill deffently be replacing it with that!!
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post #7 of 72 Old 09-20-2008, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Well today just for fun I unbolted the four bolts holding the mount to the stock skid and jacked is up to see how much clearence I would have and to look at my driveshaft angle. Also While doing this i noticed I can still use my tranny mount. The only thing im worried about is my driveshaft length.
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post #8 of 72 Old 09-23-2008, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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heres a pic of the skid sheared up. 5/16" plate
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Last edited by PBR; 09-23-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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post #9 of 72 Old 09-26-2008, 08:57 PM
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Wow that's a heavy skid. I guess it's weight down low so that's good.

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post #10 of 72 Old 09-26-2008, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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yeah its VERY heavy!
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post #11 of 72 Old 09-26-2008, 10:56 PM
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I made a cross member almost the same as you are doing. When I installed a Klune V I used the Klune mount as the main attach point. So far it's worked great.



I used the old mounting locations for the skid just made the skid longer. I had to cut a slot for the front drive shaft (not in this picture) It's 1/4" plate.

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post #12 of 72 Old 09-26-2008, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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whoa very nice! I like the crossmember set up of having the bushing soild mounted and just the bar unboltable. hows that work for ya. why didnt you make the bar and bushings unboltable?

To me the way you did it seems sooo much easier than the way i was thinking of doing it! I will be thinking this over hopfully ill have my mind made up by the time it comes to weld it all up.

Another thing is i hope i dont have to make any exhaut modifications!!

Last edited by PBR; 09-26-2008 at 11:52 PM.
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post #13 of 72 Old 09-27-2008, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
To me a proper mounted power plant is triangulated as in 3 points of contact. As the frame twists with a 4 point mount something has got to give. The power-plant also twists in the frame. As you apply torque to the drive line the engine and trans "rocks" in the cradle. Just my 2 cents worth.
can you please explain this a bit further im not quite following with reference to the picture previously supplied. triangulated 3 point vrs. 4 point. are you including the motor mounts in this? not trying to be combative at all just trying to follow your suggestion more thoroughly.
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post #14 of 72 Old 09-27-2008, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTJ35 View Post
whoa very nice! I like the crossmember set up of having the bushing soild mounted and just the bar unboltable. hows that work for ya. why didnt you make the bar and bushings unboltable?

To me the way you did it seems sooo much easier than the way i was thinking of doing it! I will be thinking this over hopfully ill have my mind made up by the time it comes to weld it all up.

Another thing is i hope i dont have to make any exhaut modifications!!

I actually got the idea from JP Magazine's "Project Hot Dog". Mine is different but similar. The reason I didn't make the mounts unboltable is there isn't a clearance problem with them welded in place and it was easy to do that way. I would expect for you to need some minor exhaust mods to clear the crossmember when you raise it.

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post #15 of 72 Old 09-28-2008, 03:47 PM
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looks nice and clean... well done

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