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Unread 06-10-2012, 09:18 PM   #16
TXST8tj
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The first design would essentially look like the Rokmen setup, and you wouldn't see the bracing from behind.
I do think the second design would still look pretty good. I'm going to run it by the guys and see what they think as far as what will be better to get the stronger results.

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Unread 06-11-2012, 03:12 PM   #17
JPH1486
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what are your plans for the sway bar? or are you running a currie?
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Unread 06-12-2012, 12:09 PM   #18
TXST8tj
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I am not running an Antirock yet, but do plan to in the future. Currently, my plan is to continue using the stock swaybar with the quick disconnect I have. Either way, I plan to use the swaybar mounting holes as an additional bolt-up point. I figure it can't hurt to tie it in back there anyway....even if I didn't run the stock swaybar. Rokmen uses the rearmost swaybar hole with their setup. The grille hoop gets in the way of the forward hole. I won't have a grill hoop for a while, so I might as well use the bolt point.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 11:05 AM   #19
TXST8tj
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We notched the top center part of the bumper to wrap around the grille a bit and then cut the long lower lip off the front. My job now is to line up the shackles so they can be welded in (going with design #2 from the previous page), and then the bottom piece of the bumper will get welded on. We left it off yesterday because with it off, they will have more room to get the backside of the shackles welded in place.


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Unread 06-18-2012, 06:38 PM   #20
JPH1486
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What angle did you bend that at?
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Unread 06-19-2012, 08:50 AM   #21
TXST8tj
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haha...I couldn't tell you.
The press die only goes to 90*, but the initial bend actually went a little more than that. It wasn't enough and after trying a couple different dies, they just heated it up and bent it some more like that.

I could get a measurement though.

I started working on fitting the shackles. I got one hole cut, but have not started on the second.
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Unread 06-19-2012, 02:37 PM   #22
JPH1486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
haha...I couldn't tell you.
The press die only goes to 90*, but the initial bend actually went a little more than that. It wasn't enough and after trying a couple different dies, they just heated it up and bent it some more like that.

I could get a measurement though.

I started working on fitting the shackles. I got one hole cut, but have not started on the second.
i have the same problem, my bender will only do a 90. so i was thinking about bending the bottom and welding the top plate on.
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Unread 06-19-2012, 03:10 PM   #23
04WJny
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Haha seems like everyone has that problem. My bender only goes up to 90 . Like JPH1486 i also plan on welding the top on too once everything fits. I was thinking of using a straight piece of steel as a guide at the bending point and carefully cut half the depth so you can bend it by hand then fill it in with some filler and weld the back up too (thats only an idea i have, not too sure if it works well or not) You want to make sure you cut it on the outside of the bend so that as you bend it it begins to open up
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Unread 06-20-2012, 08:54 PM   #24
TXST8tj
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I figured since the top bend is what will be seen the most, I wanted the absolute clean lines of the bend. The bottom part really won't be seen, so I thought it would be better to weld the bottom piece to that.
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Unread 07-16-2012, 09:55 PM   #25
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I fit the shackles in place this evening. I think I'm going to like the way it looks. The shackles fit right up under the top side of the plate making a large weld surface. I will snap a picture of that tomorrow.
I threw it in the back of the Tahoe to bring up to work to have my bud weld them up.




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Unread 07-17-2012, 03:32 PM   #26
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looking good!
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Unread 07-18-2012, 10:42 AM   #27
TXST8tj
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This pic shows the contact points of the shackles from the underside/backside. I attached the d-ring to aid as a reference point.

A typical shackle that is welded front and back of a bumper has 8 total weld passes (4 front, 4 back). The way this is setup with the shackle fitting right under the top part of the bumper, it allows an additional two surface/contact points for welds to be made, for a total of 10 total weld passes front and rear.


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Unread 07-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #28
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Shackles are welded up! I drilled the top mounting holes this evening (not shown).

I will be mocking up the bottom and sides this weekend so those pieces can be welded.

I am working with someone to custom laser cut a fairlead mount for me. I could go with some basic tabs, but I kinda wanted something "trick" for that since the rest of the bumper is fairly plain.


I'm not a welder, but it looks like he did a good job.







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Unread 08-03-2012, 07:32 AM   #29
KP_1000orTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post

My Rokmen inspiration:

Is it just me or does it seem like a bad idea to connect the stinger to the grill hoop? I just feel like if something connects pretty solidly with the front it could force the hoop into the grill.
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Unread 08-03-2012, 01:56 PM   #30
TXST8tj
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Tying the stinger into the hoop adds rididity to the stinger. Without that, the stinger would flop back and serve even less function than it may or may not already (depends on who you talk to).
The grille hoop in that picture is braced by a large gusset on the backside of the hoop. That will do a pretty decent job of keeping the hoop vertical.
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