[Archi-jp]

Any updates on the LA's?
Any adjustments been made since the last post?
Post up some pics if you have new one...
What kind of mods did you have to do to the exhaust system- any conflicts?

I got started on my frame mounts today & will hit more later on this week while the wife is out of town. I'll post up pics of mine as things progress.

Thanks again for the thorough write-up.

[raskull]

Looks awesome man... I always think I want to go clayton or a custom fabone from a friend, but then I have another look at this thread.

$600 total or so for long arms is just too cheap to not try. :P

[Tommy R]

Thanks, y'all! No real updates. I've wheeled it twice with the long arm setup and it's performed well beyond my expectations both times. The arms have withstood some harsh abuse and are still in great shape. I haven't had any reason to try the other mounting locations on the rear truss.

However, on my first trip out, I "boomerang'd" my tie rod. We straightened it and sleeved it with some pipe so I could keep wheeling. The next trip out ended up bending the sleeved tie rod, twisting my driveshaft, and breaking a front u-joint. So now I'm building a really heavy duty crossover/high steer setup (well, "high" compared to the stock setup). I've also got to install replacement parts for the shaft and u-joint.

Tommy

[Archi-jp]

I need the following info to continue my build:

-the length of tube for your upppers for the front end
-dimensions of the plate you welded connecting the upper to lower & location of hole
-dims on the "C" connecting to the upper axle bushings & location of hole


I'm getting my stuff welded this week since I have no access to one.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by Archi-jp

I need the following info to continue my build:

-the length of tube for your upppers for the front end
-dimensions of the plate you welded connecting the upper to lower & location of hole
-dims on the "C" connecting to the upper axle bushings & location of hole


I'm getting my stuff welded this week since I have no access to one.

The length of the uppers really doesn't matter much. You basically just need to have enough threaded adjustability to get caster where you want it. Likewise for the rest of the uppers. The plates (1/4") were simply cut to barely allow clearance for the Johnny Joints without them hitting the lower arm. And the inside of the "C" just needs to match up closely to the outer measurement of the OEM rubber bushings.

If you need some actual measurements, though, I can see what I can do.

Tommy

[Archi-jp]

just wanting to get close...

[97TJGUZZY]

what size tubing or C channel are you using to make the frame brackets. I made some similar but used plate I welded together, but I like how you utilized cut in halv tubing or c channel. Do you knwo the size?

[Tommy R]

I think it was 3x5 rectangular tubing that I cut one face off of. It may have been 2x4, though. I'm planning on taking some measurements tonight for Archi-jp so I'll take those measurements for you, too, while I'm in the garage.

Tommy

[Archi-jp]

I took a different approach w/ the Frame mounts- I used 2x3x1/4 angle that is welded down the center & boxed on one end- I'll post pics once I get them back from the weld shop.

[97TJGUZZY]

can i get these measurements from you? I no longer have stock width axles under my jeep so i cant measure on my TJ and I am working on longarms for a buddys TJ who is not here.

im trying to figure out the angle at which the front arms should be to the frame when the bracket is placed near the skid

[Tommy R]

Well, the angle itself was merely cut to be flush with the edge of the framerail. What I chose to do is make the arm as long as I could. I stopped it 1/4" from the OEM skidplate. Then I moved the bracket over just a bit so that the bracket was directly inline with the lower bracket on the front control arm. I didn't want any bind on the lower OEM bushing in the front of the lower control arm. Does that make sense?

I can tell you that the bracket started with 2x4 rec. tubing with a 1/4" wall.

The front uppers are approximately 13.5" from center hole to center hole, but it's not a direct measurement.

The front lowers are about 34.75" center hole to center hole.

Hope this helps y'all out some. If not, let me know if you need anything else. Honestly, I don't mind a phone call. So if that's easier PM me and send me your number or ask for mine. It might save a lot of going back and forth.

Tommy

[97TJGUZZY]

ok, so you lined it up then cut it, that makes sense too. Thanks for the help, nice build

[Tommy R]

That's pretty much it. Align the bracket inline with the lower axle mount and locate it to the frame as far back as you'd like.

Tommy

[97TJGUZZY]

is there a secret to getting the stock rubber bushings in the RE cans?

I cant for the life of me get mine to fit. You do leve the metal can on the bushing right?

Do I need to grind the can on the bushing a bit? I have tried using a vise and then a hammer and tubing...got it this far...

[Tommy R]

Oh man... I feel your pain, but you'll need a fairly powerful press. Hammering it or using a vise just won't cut it. I used my plain ol' Harbor Freight press and it took some effort to get them in. I also used some lubrication (WD40 or something). You'll need to exercise some patience, too. Put a lot of tension on it, but when it gets REALLY hard to move the lever any more, let it sit for a bit and see if it'll pop down some. Just make sure not to press the bushings in all the way. Leave a lip so that you'll be able to remove the busings one day.

But yes, even the "bulgier" portion of the OEM bushings will press fit into the sleeves. Maybe it's more of an interference fit. I guess you could always take it to a machine shop or most auto repair places and for $20 they should do it. Of course, that's about 25% of the cost of a press from HF!

Tommy