Long Arm Build for a TJ - Page 20 - JeepForum.com
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post #286 of 307 Old 02-19-2014, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
Tommy R
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Back from the dead!

So I decided I wanted to convert the front suspension from a radius arm to a true 3 link setup. I started looking into building a new upper link, front truss, etc. and it turns out it wasn't much more money to just go ahead and buy the Clayton 3 link conversion. So that's what I did. A cop out? The easy way out? Perhaps. But my time has been very limited lately with the new job so it was the right decision for me. The radius arm setup has worked fantastic for the last 5 years, but I just felt like trying something different. I guess I got bored.

Anyway, I'll only post a couple pics of the Clayton stuff since I didn't build it...though I did do the install, of course. You'll also notice that I took the opportunity to weld in the Clayton HD track bar setup and the Currie steering with the Savvy tie rod. Here ya go.


I plan to sell my radius arms so that means I need to build new lowers. I was very happy with the length of my previous arms so I wanted to make sure I kept the same length.


Ready to be welded and painted (tomorrow).


And drilled for plug welds again. Maybe overkill, but I'm okay with that.


I'll post up more pics after I get some more work done...

And if anyone in Texas is heading to Katemcy at the end of the month, hit me up!


2001 Wrangler homemade long arm, 99" WB, ARBs, alloys, 4.88s, 35" MTRs
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post #287 of 307 Old 02-22-2014, 12:41 AM
qwest4air
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Sweet
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post #288 of 307 Old 02-24-2014, 08:10 PM
wushaw
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Looks good!

I run a Clayton 3 link, it works well.
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post #289 of 307 Old 03-09-2014, 06:23 PM
lpukas2
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How come you decided on a radius set up instead of a three link? Curious as I am looking to do my own long arms.
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post #290 of 307 Old 03-11-2014, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
Tommy R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpukas2 View Post
How come you decided on a radius set up instead of a three link? Curious as I am looking to do my own long arms.
In my case, I just wanted to eliminate any rubber bushings. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a radius arm setup and mine has served me extremely well. But I'd been suffering from sporadic, minor death wobble and I wanted to eliminate any rubber. As it turns out, I think it was related to my track bar and/or tie rods, not the rubber in the radius arms. But that's okay. The new suspension is working great, although it doesn't have the same amount of flex up front. That's due to the front Anti-Rock sway bar, though.

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post #291 of 307 Old 04-28-2014, 12:04 PM
adajeepin
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I've tried to find it throughout the thread and haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, how thick walled is your square link tubing?
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post #292 of 307 Old 05-14-2014, 06:04 PM
curtisberens
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Nice looking stuff
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post #293 of 307 Old 05-20-2014, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
Tommy R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adajeepin View Post
I've tried to find it throughout the thread and haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, how thick walled is your square link tubing?
Sorry, just saw this. For some reason JF stopped sending me reply notifications even though I've been posting lately.

The square tubing of the lowers is 1/4" thick. I think the uppers in the rear are thinner wall, maybe 3/16"? I really don't recall.

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Originally Posted by curtisberens View Post
Nice looking stuff
Thank you!

2001 Wrangler homemade long arm, 99" WB, ARBs, alloys, 4.88s, 35" MTRs
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post #294 of 307 Old 01-29-2015, 11:17 AM
nyvulcanman
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very nice build. i am getting ready to do a axle swap front and rear and going to do the same set up you have. i am wondering did you make your upper arms almost the same length so you would get very little pinion movement.
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post #295 of 307 Old 01-31-2015, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
Tommy R
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Good question! IIRC, I made the uppers a bit shorter. I didn't want to keep the pinion angle from moving, but rather wanted it always to point (within reason) to the t-case to keep driveline angles in check through the range of motion.

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post #296 of 307 Old 02-01-2015, 03:28 PM
nyvulcanman
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So I'm going to guess you made them about 2 inches shorter than the lowers. Then flexed it out to make sure it was all good before the final weld.
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post #297 of 307 Old 01-03-2016, 09:38 PM
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For the cost of the Johnny joints you might as well buy control arms
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post #298 of 307 Old 01-03-2016, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scragg78
For the cost of the Johnny joints you might as well buy control arms
Care to elaborate?

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post #299 of 307 Old 01-04-2016, 04:43 AM
scragg78
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Yeah, the cost of a Johnny joint is at cheapest 40$ that times 4 you looking at 180$ alone just for the joints then the tubing cost if you don't happen to have the right type of metal just laying around which most everyone doesn't..another 20$ at most then welding cost. Let's face it 200$ easy to build your own pair of LCA's, so cheaper to get a really good set shipped with a warranty

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post #300 of 307 Old 01-04-2016, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
Tommy R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scragg78 View Post
Yeah, the cost of a Johnny joint is at cheapest 40$ that times 4 you looking at 180$ alone just for the joints then the tubing cost if you don't happen to have the right type of metal just laying around which most everyone doesn't..another 20$ at most then welding cost. Let's face it 200$ easy to build your own pair of LCA's, so cheaper to get a really good set shipped with a warranty

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Where can you get a set of quality control arms with quality joints on each end made to the length you want for that price?

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