So I decided I wanted to convert the front suspension from a radius arm to a true 3 link setup. I started looking into building a new upper link, front truss, etc. and it turns out it wasn't much more money to just go ahead and buy the Clayton 3 link conversion. So that's what I did. A cop out? The easy way out? Perhaps. But my time has been very limited lately with the new job so it was the right decision for me. The radius arm setup has worked fantastic for the last 5 years, but I just felt like trying something different. I guess I got bored.
Anyway, I'll only post a couple pics of the Clayton stuff since I didn't build it...though I did do the install, of course. You'll also notice that I took the opportunity to weld in the Clayton HD track bar setup and the Currie steering with the Savvy tie rod. Here ya go.
I plan to sell my radius arms so that means I need to build new lowers. I was very happy with the length of my previous arms so I wanted to make sure I kept the same length.
Ready to be welded and painted (tomorrow).
And drilled for plug welds again. Maybe overkill, but I'm okay with that.
I'll post up more pics after I get some more work done...
And if anyone in Texas is heading to Katemcy at the end of the month, hit me up!
How come you decided on a radius set up instead of a three link? Curious as I am looking to do my own long arms.
In my case, I just wanted to eliminate any rubber bushings. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a radius arm setup and mine has served me extremely well. But I'd been suffering from sporadic, minor death wobble and I wanted to eliminate any rubber. As it turns out, I think it was related to my track bar and/or tie rods, not the rubber in the radius arms. But that's okay. The new suspension is working great, although it doesn't have the same amount of flex up front. That's due to the front Anti-Rock sway bar, though.
very nice build. i am getting ready to do a axle swap front and rear and going to do the same set up you have. i am wondering did you make your upper arms almost the same length so you would get very little pinion movement.
Good question! IIRC, I made the uppers a bit shorter. I didn't want to keep the pinion angle from moving, but rather wanted it always to point (within reason) to the t-case to keep driveline angles in check through the range of motion.