However, it's much weaker against torsional forces, which are what controls arms most frequently encounter.
I have no idea what Claton's warranty is, but my round Rock Krawler arms come with a no questions asked lifetime warranty.
Thats why I included a quote of it from their site along with linking it
I am really liking your build Tommy, and being able to see the pics at work is a big plus.
Question for anyone, how necessary is it to use a jam nut when you have a bushing on one end and a JJ on the other? I mean its not going to back out unless its not connected to the frame or axle, and at that point you probably have bigger problems. I would also think the connection would be stronger if you had the threads down another 1" in the tube adapter instead of having the nut, if the shank will go that much further down.
What are your plans for the rear? Triangulated or normal 4 link like the stock setup?
Also what are you using for springs, your RE 4.5"s?
You definitely want to use a jam nut in this application. True, the joint can't back out on it's own, however there is still just ever so little play in the threads and over time the bolt and "nut" threads will wear on one another due to this movement. Eventually, both would need to be replaced. The jam nut will prevent this movement by keeping everything nice and tight.
Oh yeah, one other thing.... The insert is only threaded about 2.5" or so. So while the Johnny Joint may not looked threaded in all the way, it is. So there's plenty of reserve thread for the jam nut, plus I'll have plenty of thread left to stretch my wheelbase an inch or two overall.
So I made some more progress today until my chop saw blade lost a chunk. D'oh! Here's some pics...
On the left: Cut out with a sawzall (straights) and a cut off wheel (curve).
On the right: The plasma cutter I never could get to work right. Any suggestions on what's wrong to generate that much splatter?
Driver's side chassis mount coming together:
And now with a bolt!!
The angle is cut so that face will be flush to the side of the frame rail. I'll get a better pic of that later:
Some of the chamfering for the bracket. I did both inside and outside of the vertical bracket:
Here's where I need some welding help. I now am using the larger Hobart 185 amp welder with Ar/CO2. I set the speed and voltage to their recommendations for 1/4" steel, but two things are wrong. 1) There's a TON of splatter. 2) I have to move the torch faster than I'd like because the puddle of weld seems to accumulate too quickly. So I started doing smaller C's when laying down the bead along with moving quicker. I think they look okay, but I was getting nicer welds with my dinky 135 amp MIG. Is my wire speed too high or how? What about the voltage? Maybe more or less gas?
I think the pics make the welds look a little worse than they really appear, but the splatter is pretty accurately depicted. Thoughts?
The guidelines on the welder are just a starting point. You will need to adjust it on some scrap to get it just right. It looks like you can turn the heat up slightly and the wire speed down slightly. This will allow you to slow the puddle down and get more penatration. Go to the welding store and pick up some anti spatter spray, it works. I find that when my wire spool gets dirty it starts to spatter.
As for your plasma, it could be a number of things. Does it have a fresh consumable? Are you getting a good ground? High enough amerage? A 110v compressor really isn't strong enough to cut 1/4" so you need to take your time.
Well, I found out the welder was wired for flux core which is apparently a reversed polarity from solid core. I swapped it and things improved a good bit. I feel better about it now.
I don't know anything about the plasma, unfortunately. I will say that the next time I tried it (to cut off my OEM brackets) it worked much better possibly because I really put some effort into getting it a good ground. The compressor is a 60 gallon/6 hp setup and it's 220V, but I can only have one 220V item on at a time. Fortunately, the compressor had plenty of air capacity for the plasma cutter. I think now I may be done with the plasma, though. I just don't see the benefit from it over the tools I already have unless I can easily and quickly discover why it doesn't cut as cleanly as I'd prefer.
I took some more pics today. I'll get them uploaded and posted here in a bit...
Looking down the driver's side arm toward the chassis mount. You can see why there was an angle cut on the mount because of the bend in the frame rail:
Mocking up the control arm and chassis mount on the driver's side while the passenger side is still untouched with the Rubicon Express (short) control arms:
BTW, those are Centramatic wheel balancers shown on the hub in the above pic.
Driver's side mount tacked into place:
And passenger side also tacked into place:
I may be taking the day off tomorrow to enjoy some Austin fun, but I'll be back working on it soon enough. Next up is to remove the exhaust and driveshaft to finish welding up the mounts and then I need to make the upper control arms and brackets.
Got a fair amount done today, but very little visible. I removed the skidplate to provide access to welding the mounts to the frame rails. I dropped the driveshaft and exhaust for this same reason. I then installed the lower arms and set the wheelbase approximately 1.5"-2" longer than it was. I also removed the Rubicon Express upper arms and finalized how I'm going to build the upper parts of the radius arms. I should all be tacked together later tomorrow night.
If you planned on stretching it the 1.5 - 2" in the front, why didn't you build your arms for that length so you would haven't to have so much thread showing on your johnny joints? That is going to be the weak point on your arms and usually the rocks like to hit in that location.
1999 Jeep TJ on 1 tons (OLDER)
2003 Jeep Rubicon (OLD)
2008 Jeep Unlimited X (NEW)
Well, here's the deal about that. I stupidly forgot to measure my wheelbase before I started. I built the arms so that theoretically I could shorten them from "stock" about a 1/4", but lengthen them as far as I dared....which should be upwards of 1.5"-2". What I found out later on is that my wheelbase was apparently quite a bit shorter than the stock 93.5" wheelbase. :\ I'm assuming this was due to the short arms and relatively tall amount of lift.
So I had a decision to make.....
1) Do I move my mounts farther forward? No, because if I build different arms in the future, I'd be limiting myself on their ultimate length potential with the mounts farther forward. So I decided to keep the mounts as they were, i.e. as far rearward as I could get them without hitting the skidplate.
2) Do I just lengthen the arms? This was what I decided to do. I've still got just over an inch of thread engagement into the insert, plus I have another inch of engagement on the jam nut to help distribute the bending loads on the joint. Best as I can tell this is similar to the amount of thread engagement on the Clayton arms.
3) What about the future? If I decide to lengthen the wheelbase any farther I'll just build new lowers. It wouldn't cost much money, it would really just be some labor. But we'll see if I decide to do that or not down the road.
So for now I think this setup will work. If I get too paranoid, I'll thread in the joints another 1/2" or so, but I don't think it'll be necessary. This is primarily what I wrestled with pretty much all day yesterday......literally sometimes.