Long Arm Build for a TJ - Page 15

**Tommy R** · 10-23-2009, 12:58 PM

Wow, I haven't been getting notifications so I missed this last wave of discussion. There are several reasons why I didn't do that, most of which tweba already covered. Ultimately, it's all about compromise. Longer lowers means longer uppers are also needed to keep geometry in check. That poses a big problem in the rear and for the front when I enventually make it a 3 link. Longer arms also catch and drag on obstacles so there's a decision that must be made regarding just how much clearance you're willing to lose and how long you want your arms. Making the arms longer would've also made it tough to mount a skid plate. Lastly, I plan on stretching the wheelbase eventually. Can you imagine how long my arms would be then? I'll make the rear work fine after the stretch, but that would be as long as I would want them.

egavaskcin · 12-15-2009, 10:36 PM

over the past two day's i have read you whole thread. and it was a great help. i have learned alot with all the details and questions people have asked. your rig looks great. its guys like you that make this hobby fun

**Tommy R** · 12-15-2009, 10:48 PM

Thanks! Any questions, feel free to ask... Everyone here is pretty willing to help!

egavaskcin · 12-15-2009, 11:40 PM

thanx bud. i will deff hit you up ifi have any problems

twister4fun · 12-16-2009, 09:39 AM

I may have missed it, but what is the measurement of the lowest hole on your rear upper control arm axel truss mount? Above axel center or above lower control arm mount.

**Tommy R** · 12-16-2009, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twister4fun

I may have missed it, but what is the measurement of the lowest hole on your rear upper control arm axel truss mount? Above axel center or above lower control arm mount.

I don't know.

I need to get under it to take some measurements so I can input everything in a spreadsheet. I'll post it up whenever I get around to it.

89yjon · 01-24-2010, 04:11 PM

I just read the whole 15 pages! Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to share all the info.

**Tommy R** · 01-24-2010, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89yjon

I just read the whole 15 pages! Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to share all the info.

My pleasure!

**jpony645** · 01-28-2010, 09:25 AM

Tommy,

Do you drive it much on the road? How does it handle? Did the long arms affect the driveability much?

I'm currently running a RE 4" short arm lift with 35's.

**Tommy R** · 01-28-2010, 01:30 PM

I drive it on the street all the time and it rides much, much better than with the 4.5" short arm RE lift.

BygKuntrey13 · 02-24-2010, 07:53 AM

ima BUMP this thread cuz im working on a 44/44 install and the coil kit i got welded on the front is for long arms so Y waste a perfect opportunity to fab something else up! GREAT JOB BRO "duhrock:

cmcfab · 03-22-2010, 07:24 PM

Wow 2 years and still a strong thread. Tommy , your build thread has answered so many questions i had being new to TJs. I build cages for friends and have pretty good mechanical skills but have yet to do a link setup. My buddy asked me to find a kit to install on his o2 TJ and i figured it would be too pricey to do a complete cuctom setup. But after reading your build, its definitly doable for me and with what tools i have in my shop. We appreciate your time and effort in keeping us informed and giving your insight on a build like this.

I was originally thinking of a RE 4.5 SF short arm kit with 3.5 springs. I prefer a lower stance and i have read that most people eventually swap out the RE 4.5 springs for the 3.5 springs because they actually sit a bit higher then what they are labeled. For the price of a kit, i could make a long arm setup with money to spare for a CV and SYE. Tire Clearance for 35's isn't and issue because i will eventually cut the fenders anyways. Have you thought about using different springs or maybe a progressive rate spring? Are you happy with the 4.5 RE springs?

One other thing, when fully drooped, do your springs drop from the upper spring mount?

**Tommy R** · 03-22-2010, 09:03 PM

My pleasure and I'm glad you've found this thread helpful.

To answer your question, the front springs come loose at full droop, but don't come out. They're retained by the bump stop within the coil. I think the rears are kept a little snugger. If I had longer travel shocks, I'm sure the springs would come loose. FYI, I'm running Rancho RS9000's.

Oh, and about the springs... I've been running the 4.5" springs because I was planning on eventually running 37s. I also had a 1" puck up front that I'd removed some time ago. But now that it looks like I may stay with the D30 and D44 for a while longer, I'm thinking of getting some 3.5" springs instead to drop the cg. I won't want it any lower than that. Sure, a low cg is great, but with just 35's it's really easy to drag or high center on obstacles so I'm only willing to go one more inch lower.

**Tommy R** · 03-22-2010, 09:06 PM

Found some pics that might help...

Front:

Rear, but keep in mind I was still running a rear bar at the time. I didn't keep it long.

**Tommy R** · 03-22-2010, 09:09 PM

Here's a shot of the rear with no rear bar. Not too much of a difference...