Long Arm Build for a TJ

[dickensheets]

Wow nice job! You have inspired me.

What are the correct names of the hardware at each of the ends of the arm? I would not know what to order right now.

Thanks Ryan

[Tommy R]

Thanks! On one end are OEM bushings/sleeves and on the other end are Currie Johnny Joints. I used the 2.5" size, but the thread size differed from the uppers to the lowers. I think I listed the thread size early on in the thread, but I could be wrong.

Tommy

[dickensheets]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks! On one end are OEM bushings/sleeves and on the other end are Currie Johnny Joints. I used the 2.5" size, but the thread size differed from the uppers to the lowers. I think I listed the thread size early on in the thread, but I could be wrong.

Tommy

Thanks Tommy

[98blacksahara]

Did you have to modify the exhaust to clear the upper arms in the rear?

[Tommy R]

Sure did. I lopped it off along with the muffler and welded in a turndown. I plan on putting in some sort of muffler, though. It's a little loud and raspy sounding for my taste.

Tommy

[98blacksahara]

please update with pics when you get it installed

[PBR]

im thinking of building my own long arm but figure it will save ALOT of time just buying the frame brackets and building the arms. Its buying the brackets and building the arms pretty much idiot proof?

[j0nesy]

Originally Posted by PBR

im thinking of building my own long arm but figure it will save ALOT of time just buying the frame brackets and building the arms. Its buying the brackets and building the arms pretty much idiot proof?

not really ... you still need to run the numbers in a 4 link calculator and see what kind of roll centers, squat, anti-squat numbers you will be getting ... especially if the rig is going to be driven on the street.

plenty of people grab the materials and start welding ... but to do it properly with predictable road manners, you want to run the numbers.

symmetry is the biggest thing. if the arms are slightly different lengths, or the mounts are welded in slightly different locations .... the vehicle will behave very badly under many circumstances (steering, hard throttle, and the worst is hard braking). the angles, lengths, and mounting locations need to be symmetrical .. as close as humanly possible anyway.

[Tommy R]

Yup. The fabrication part was actually the easiest.....by far. The hardest part for me was determining precisely where things would mount, determining the lengths I needed, and making sure everything was equal, square, etc. I was really determined have a wheelbase/track that was square and that kind of thing just takes time....and confidence that you're about to weld in the right location.

Tommy

[98blacksahara]

so if I am to understand this set-up correctly, on the upper rear mounts, placing the bolts lower in the mount would increase anti-squat and higher would reduce it? or do I have it backwards? I have been reading up on the subject of 4 links all day and I am starting to get the grasp of why things need to be a certain way

[Tommy R]

Essentially, yes, that's correct. There's obviously a lot to the process of determining locations for desired anti-squat numbers. For me, I didn't run it though a calculator (yet). I merely wimped out and used approximate locations based on what other successful long arm builds have used (either homemade or store bought).

Tommy

[98blacksahara]

Approximately how far above and below axle center line were your mounts?

[spencerd76]

Hey, congrats on all your hard work! I was looking at the bushing sleeves on the RE site, did you use the large or small ones?

[97TJGUZZY]

Originally Posted by spencerd76

Hey, congrats on all your hard work! I was looking at the bushing sleeves on the RE site, did you use the large or small ones?

large ones, by the way you can get them from alot of the RE vendors for about $4-5 a piece.

[ChiliPalmer]

Originally Posted by 97TJGUZZY

is there a secret to getting the stock rubber bushings in the RE cans?

I cant for the life of me get mine to fit. You do leve the metal can on the bushing right?

Do I need to grind the can on the bushing a bit? I have tried using a vise and then a hammer and tubing...got it this far...

I know this is an old post and I hate to hijack but this is for anyone in the future who runs into this.

We just built some short arms and used these exact bushings and sleeves. We initially tried setting a plate on top of the bushing (that was sitting on the sleeve) and pressing it in that way but it wouldn't go in. Then a buddy suggested we try a large socket (I think we ended up using a short piece of tube?) to press on the bushing sleeve only (the metal sleeve around the rubber bushing) and it went in like butter! I don't know what the deal was and the only thing we could think of is when using a flat plate it was compressing the rubber so much that the metal around it couldn't compress and fit into the sleeve. I was using a HF 20ton press but using this method you could easily get those bushings in with a small vise.

EDIT: Great build by the way! I've been watching it for a while.