However, on my first trip out, I "boomerang'd" my tie rod. We straightened it and sleeved it with some pipe so I could keep wheeling. The next trip out ended up bending the sleeved tie rod, twisting my driveshaft, and breaking a front u-joint. So now I'm building a really heavy duty crossover/high steer setup (well, "high" compared to the stock setup). I've also got to install replacement parts for the shaft and u-joint.
love the design of your long arm kit... probably going to emulate it myself... curious if you've started the project of the "highsteer" kit? let me know any information if you have done it already
$slick, check out post #115 in this thread. Maybe add some bucks for misc. hardware, etc.
I should also point out that I had a change of heart regarding the radius arm setup up front. It seemed to be working well, but in my build thread on pirate it was pointed out how much stress is applied to the linkage hardware as the suspension articulates to its outer limits. I gave it a bit more thought and it was clear that when a radius arm setup articulates it tries to twist the axle like a torsion bar. This can cause bind, but also apparently has been known to snap Grade 8 hardware. Granted, I've got some rubber bushings in my setup so maybe it wouldn't be that big a deal, but I decided to try a modified three link. I basically just removed the upper from the passenger side radius arm and left the driver side radius arm intact.
On the trail this past weekend it actually seemed to flex easier than before. Not by a lot, but for the first time I was able to fully compress my shocks front and rear simultaneously when I took this poseur shot. Now I need longer bumpstops.
I haven't driven it on the street yet. I'd like to get some longer hardware for the front upper and double nut it and Locktite it, too. I don't want that thing coming loose. I'll also make sure all the others are torqued and Locktited. But so far I'm not seeing any real reason not to leave it as-is. Of course, if anyone has a differing viewpoint, I'm always willing listen.
BTW, this thing still climbs like mad and performs FANTASTIC on the rocks! Couldn't be happier!
__________________ 2001 Wrangler - homemade long arm, 4.56s, 35" MTRs, D30/Lock Right/alloys, D44/ARB/35 spline alloys My Jeep Build Journal
Instead of an upper and lower control arm on each side of the Jeep connecting to the axle, the lower control arm is shaped like a y (instead of // ), where the shorter arm is connected to the lower control arm and then to the axle. Instead of 4 separate control arms, its basically 2, mounting to 4 points on the axle. Scroll through his pics and you can probably find an example.