I have a question about steel tube. - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-22-2011, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
chris_ce
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I have a question about steel tube.

I know the difference in DOM and ERW. I know that DOM is stronger.
My question is by how much.
Lets say I want to build a cage. Lets say it's going to be 1.75 tube.
I already have a stick of ERW 1.75 .134 wall. So how much weaker is this going to be when compared to 1.75 .120 wall DOM?

I have seen many threads comparing the two tubes but all listed the same size.
How much thicker does the ERW need to be to get close to the strength of DOM?

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post #2 of 6 Old 01-23-2011, 12:08 AM
TaterTott
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build it strong by design, not by material...


i have a buddy that has a land cruiser with a cage build of 1.5" skeg 40 pipe.. and that rig TOPS my list of thrashings.... cage hasn't budged a bit..


i use EWS.. way way cheaper than DOM..

Nate Goodwin

"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, NP231/Dana 300 Doubler, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-23-2011, 08:00 AM
underpowered
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is it Hot rolled or cold rolled EWS tube? that will be a difference as well.

but if you design it correctly, it will be plenty strong. my Cage is all cold rolled EWS tube. 1 5/8 x .134 wall.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

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Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-23-2011, 08:14 AM
solarpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaterTott View Post
build it strong by design, not by material..
This.

the actual strength differences are insignificant if the welds are crap or if the design of the cage is poor, those are the places it will fail first.

Dom is cleaner over-all so you pay up front to not have to remove scale, get material that bends cleaner, and is easier to give a top notch paint job too. When the steel is drawn over the mandrel (DOM) there is a certain amount of internal stress that is released from the steel and this in turn strengthens the steel and makes it ideal to bend and form...especially near the weld seam.

Pipe is generally dirtier, has some lower grades that you want to avoid, may have some ugliness on seams, and might not fit in your bender.. but is very inexpensive and plenty strong enough when built correctly.

Here is a link with some info..http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=1919 about what kind of pipe you want to look for.

If you are building a full blown buggy comp chassis that will see many multiple roll-overs then you should be worried about strength differences...but since your probably building a cage that should only be used once then getting a good solid design (triangulate) and good solid welds (penetrate) are what makes the biggest difference.

Splitting hairs over a couple thousand lbs of tensile strength and saving a few bucks is all the builders choice.

04 TJ "U" package
06 XK Commaddy 4.7
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-23-2011, 12:49 PM
TaterTott
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http://www.davesport.com/cgi-bin/davesport/specs.html

Nate Goodwin

"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, NP231/Dana 300 Doubler, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-25-2011, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
chris_ce
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Thanks for the info. Think I will just use what I have to do the front cage parts.
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