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Unread 11-22-2010, 06:08 PM   #16
justanotherjpr
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Wow, nice work!

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Unread 11-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #17
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What "method" will you use? I just got my first welder and am interested in the processes used for material besides mild steel.
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Unread 11-22-2010, 06:21 PM   #18
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What "method" will you use? I just got my first welder and am interested in the processes used for material besides mild steel.
I welded the axle tubes to the diff housing and I used my MIG. Most people prefer stick welding the tubes to diff housing using nickel rod. I used a good amount of heat and let it cool really slow and did not see any cracking in the welds. I also stood the axle on end while cooling to help prevent warping.

I have both a Miller 172 MIG and Sychrowave 180 TIG. Both are 220 volt units and are rated right around 180 amps. 1/4" steel is about the max thickness using a single pass with no preheat. I could probably go a little thicker using .035 flux core on my MIG.

I do have a roll of .035 flux core and only use it when welding outside in the wind or on really dirty stuff that can't easily be cleaned up. Depending on the thickness of the steel, I will use either .023 (for thin stuff) or .035 for 1/8" and up with a mix of CO2 and Argon for the gas.
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Unread 11-22-2010, 08:41 PM   #19
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Stan the truss, knuckles, etc. are looking great. I'll be watching!!
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Unread 11-23-2010, 03:09 AM   #20
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Nice work!

That's gonna be 1 beefy HP30!
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Unread 11-23-2010, 07:22 AM   #21
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the angle of the lower control arm mount is 10 deg. just a FYI.
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Unread 11-23-2010, 03:03 PM   #22
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Update

I took more pictures today of the reaming process and the parts for the high steer in case anyone is interested.

Here is a pic of the Moog stuff you'll need:





And the Snap On reamer that I borrowed from another Jeep Forum member (Thanks Jim - it's on it's way back to you):



The knuckles were really easy to ream. The pitman arm on the other hand was a lot harder due to the difference in material (cast vs. forged). Here you can see how I have it held in a vise with soft jaws to protect the knuckle. The one hole has already been reamed and the upper is stock. Use lots of cutting oil and go really slow with the drill to prevent chatter:







Both holes reamed and TRE's inserted to check for clearance on the passenger side. It'll be tight with the jamb nut installed and the DOM. Notice the difference in zerk fitting location using these TRE's. Once the wheels and tires are on, it would be a really tight fit with zerk on top. Having it on the side will be much easier to get at:



The size difference between stock ZJ (middle) and true 1 ton TRE's. The one shown on the top is for the drag link and gives much more misalignment than that short one shown on the bottom. I chose the shortest I could for the tie rod for strength. It does not need nearly as much movement as the drag link:



I chose to ream the pitman arm while still in the Jeep. I was not in the mood to rent a puller. It was much harder to ream the pitman arm compared to the knuckles. The pitman arm is a little galled up on the bottom from the previous lift and track bar. The angle was not good and the body of the TRE was making contact with the pitman arm.

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Unread 11-23-2010, 03:14 PM   #23
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Looking great.
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Unread 11-29-2010, 12:51 PM   #24
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Thanks for posting the info Stan. Looks to be a great job.
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Unread 11-29-2010, 12:57 PM   #25
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I really like the sleeving in the truss holes
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Unread 11-29-2010, 08:38 PM   #26
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Nice work!
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Unread 12-05-2010, 04:16 PM   #27
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updates?

I want to do the same type of project (minus the wj knuckles) to a hp30 and dana 44a for my zj.

I've never welded before so knowing what type of welder to get on a very low budget would be awesome.
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Unread 01-04-2011, 05:41 PM   #28
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This is one of the nicest trusses I've seen for a D30... And exactly what I have envisioned for my YJ HP30... I think the CAD system is going to mess up the truss though.

Stan, since you've got a YJ and a ZJ, would the HP30 off a YJ that has the CAD system on the passenger side kinda mess up this type of truss? Maybe I'll get an XJ HP30...
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Unread 01-04-2011, 05:47 PM   #29
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This is one of the nicest trusses I've seen for a D30... And exactly what I have envisioned for my YJ HP30... I think the CAD system is going to mess up the truss though.

Stan, since you've got a YJ and a ZJ, would the HP30 off a YJ that has the CAD system on the passenger side kinda mess up this type of truss? Maybe I'll get an XJ HP30...
You could cut it out and retube, or maybe cut off the upper CA mount on the disconnect and build the truss over it.

I'd just get an XJ HP30 as you can get one complete for around $150-$200 and it comes with shafts you can use as spares.


OP, D30 looks good. Pretty much what I will be doing when I build mine.
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Unread 01-04-2011, 06:18 PM   #30
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Its looking really good
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