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Unread 11-16-2010, 04:34 PM   #1
Area.3.Fiftyone
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HP30-Truss-WJ Knuckles-High Steer-Etc.

I wasn't sure where to put this, so I thought I'd share it here.

I'm in the middle of lifting my ZJ to clear 35's without cutting the fenders. It's going to be my daily driver and did not want to go long arm and will be keeping the adjustable short arms that came on the Jeep.

To get started I thought I'd share the HP30 build. The D30 will be trussed, custom control arm mounts to get the LCA's up from under the axle tubes, custom coil buckets that are raised up over an inch and moved back about an inch and a half for better tie rod/coil clearance. Additionally, I will be installing WJ knuckles and brakes along with high steer using 1 ton TRE's and a custom tie rod and drag link.

I started off by cutting off all of the factory brackets and removed everything. I was going to make my own truss, but I don't have a plasma cutter (or any easy way to cut long lengths of stock) so I bought a TNT truss to get the project started. Let me say that I like the design of their truss, but I was not overly pleased with the quality of their welds. It took me quite a bit of time with the flap wheel to get it all smoothed out and acceptable.

After laying the truss on the housing, I was able to fit the Ballistic Fabrication brackets for the LCA's and coil buckets. They would not work as originally designed and I had to modify them.

Shown below is nearly everything mocked up and prior to being welded on which I did today but did not take any pics (yet).

Let me know if you see anything blatantly wrong, or if you have any comments or suggestions.

Here is how it sits right now with 5.5" springs and it will be going higher due to the raised coil buckets. Moving the LCA mounts up and back will also greatly decrease the angle of the adjustable short arms for a better ride:



Here is the truss and passenger side mounts:



I wanted to stiffen up the truss a little laterally, so I installed some tubing in the pre-cut holes and welded them up. They really helped add some stuctual rigidity to the truss and I'll feel better when I weld the upper control arm mounts on:







Here is what I came up with to bridge the coil bucket and knuckle and extend the truss to the knuckle at the same time:



Notice the position of the lower control arm mount hole. It's been moved up and back quite a bit from the stock location. I will move the UCA mounts up the same amount to minimize brake dive and keep the separation close to stock:



Next I notched the oversize coil bucket and set it so that the centers are at 37" (same as stock) The coil buckets were originally designed to sit centered on the integrated control arm brackets but it would not work in this application. The lower control arm brackets need to be about 30" from the inside edge to inside edge and that would have put the coil spring centers way too far inward if I were to use them as designed:



The stud is only being used for mockup. I cut a slot in the lower bridge and made clearance for a 1/2" nut that will be welded to the bottom of the coil bucket:



I also started on the driver's side and this is where I left off last night:



I got the truss all burned in and most of the passenger side done today. More pics will be posted tomorrow to let you see where I'm at. If I were to do it all over again, I would have made all of my own stuff. I am not too thrilled about some of the design, but I already bought the TNT truss and Ballistic mounts and could not see not using them.

Enjoy.

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Unread 11-16-2010, 05:26 PM   #2
monkers
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looks good, what are you unhappy about in regards to the truss and mounts? looks good in the pics, was it fit problems?
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Unread 11-16-2010, 05:57 PM   #3
Area.3.Fiftyone
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The welds looked like crap on the truss and it was tweaked. I had to put it in my 60 ton press and coerce it into shape.

The Ballistic mounts were fine, but they would not work as I anticipated. They are not the ones that they sell specifically for XJ's and TJ's, they are sold as an "all in one" mount that doesn't take up much space. If I would have used them as they were designed, my center to center on the coils would have been way off with the lower control arm mounts where they needed to be.

The mounts come like this stock:
ultimatebracket1.jpg  
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Unread 11-17-2010, 05:44 AM   #4
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That's a pretty sexy looking HP30..
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Unread 11-17-2010, 09:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
That's a pretty sexy looking HP30..
Agreed. I think you did a good job deciding where to beef up the truss.

I'm not so sure about the LCA mount though. Shouldn't it be angled in slightly? It looks pretty straight on.
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Unread 11-18-2010, 01:22 AM   #6
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Looks good...
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Unread 11-18-2010, 01:33 AM   #7
Kramer H
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Wow, that does look really good, any plans on sleeving it? or would that just be pointless due to the truss?
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Unread 11-18-2010, 07:33 AM   #8
Area.3.Fiftyone
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No sleeving needed with the truss in place.

Yes, the brackets are straight. I'll be using Johnny Joints for the control arms and they will allow for lots of misalignment due to them not being angled and give lots of flex at the same time.

I thought about bending the LCA mounts but if you don't get them perfect, the LCA's will not line up with the subframe mounts if you use the stock style bushings. They don't allow for much misalignment and they don't flex as good either.

On another note: I got the tapered reamer in the mail yesterday and I'll be reaming out the WJ knuckles today for the 1 ton Moog TRE's. Pics will follow.
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Unread 11-18-2010, 02:56 PM   #9
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Looking real good so far with what you have. I'm sure you know, but clean up those joints before you weld. You'll get a much cleaner and better holding weld. You gonna go clear to the knuckle on the drivers side?
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Unread 11-18-2010, 03:03 PM   #10
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Yep, the driver's side will match the passenger side.

I got the WJ knuckles reamed today for the 1 ton TRE's but didn't take any pics. I must say that it was much easier than I thought it would be.

I only did the holes for the TRE's because I have them and want to make sure that they are the right depth. I don't have the drag link TRE's yet so I will wait to do the last hole on the passenger side upper and the pitman arm.

I am also waiting on the Currie Enterprises coil buckets and bump stops. I ordered them earlier this week and they should be here tomorrow (I hope). I also need to order some DOM soon so that I can do the tie rod and drag link.

Here is the Currie stuff that I'm going to run:

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Unread 11-18-2010, 06:56 PM   #11
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Nice HP 30 work, subscrizzled for when funds arrive
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Unread 11-22-2010, 01:29 PM   #12
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Cleaned up and blended some of the welds the other day and I got the Currie stuff in too.

I still need to finish welding as you can see and throw some paint on it.

After reaming the knuckles, I almost screwed them up. I thought I should ream them until most of the taper was seated, but after doing some reading you are only supposed to do it so that when you thread the nut on, you can get the cotter pin through.

When I did what "they" suggest, the TRE sticks pretty far out of the knuckle and I didn't like it. Too much material sticking out will decrease the shear strength IMO and I decided to go as deep as I could and still left enough room for the dust shields. I measured the length of the tapered area and reamed it just shy by about 1/16". That will give me the most strength and contact area of the tapered stud to seat area.

I may have gone a little too far, but I think everything will be all right. No pics of the reaming yet (forgot to take them today).

Here is a pic of the Currie stuff installed:

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Unread 11-22-2010, 01:52 PM   #13
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Looks like something I would want under my ZJ! Good work.
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Unread 11-22-2010, 06:03 PM   #14
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Will you be welding to either the knuckle or the diff housing?
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Unread 11-22-2010, 06:07 PM   #15
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Knuckle yes, diff housing no.

Both the truss extensions and coil buckets will be welded to the knuckle. It will help stiffen up the tubes and sort of truss the upper knuckle ear.
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